Is there somthig going wrong with this site? It seems to keep reloading the page. Or is it just on my end.

 

I'm not much more help than whats already been given with your problem, just letting you know the site is working fine for me..

 

I can't find the 4WD in the manual.. Near as I can tell ,you don't need to do anything special to install ..

 

Here's most of what is in the Dana 60 Monobeam Section:

Steering Knuckle and Upper and Lower Ball Joints

Removal

1. Note: If replacing both or just the front suspension upper ball joint (3049), the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050) must be removed first and installed last.

Raise the vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under the frame.

2. Remove the lug bolts (1107) and the wheel (1007) and tire.

3. Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) as described in «Section 06-03». Securely wire the disc brake caliper to the frame.

4. Remove the axle shaft and front wheel spindle (3105) as described under «Axle Shaft» in the Removal and Installation portion of this section.

5. Disconnect the steering arm from the knuckle using Pitman Arm Puller T64P-3590-F.

6. Remove the cotter pin from the stud of the front suspension upper ball joint. Loosen retaining nuts of both the front suspension upper ball joint and the front suspension lower arm ball joint. Remove the top nut.

7. Using a rawhide or heavy-duty plastic hammer, hit sharply on the top stud to free the knuckle from the tube yoke. After the knuckle is free from the yoke, remove the lower nut and remove the knuckle from the tube yoke.

8. Secure the knuckle in a vise. Remove the snap ring from the front suspension lower arm ball joint.

The rest covers using the tool to liberate the ball joints and then the reinstall

 

I did this yesterday.

It sucks and sucks.

You feel really accomplished after you do it though.

 

If you remove the top nut and hit on it with a hammer wont the bottom move down with the top ball joint? The intructions say to do the top fist then remove the nut for the bottom ball joint?

 

Never having done one of these, this is just speculation.....but I'd suspect the hammer will be enough to free the BJ's pin from its seat and the knuckle won't "drop down" much at all, until you get the lower joint free.

Also, FWIW, the CD the info was pasted from has been known to have wrong (grossly wrong) info in it.

 

Have you tried just removing the upper ball joint nut & tried removing the spacer ?...

 

Not yet. That is the plan because all I want to do is change out the busishing to a 0* on as I have a alighment problem. I might have to take out the knuckel to pust the bushing up from the bottom. Right now I have it soaking i PB Blaster.

 

I don't think I've had issues with knuckles, except bloody ones. Remove wheel, brake caliper, rotor, spindle, axle.

Remove top and bottom ball joint nuts.

Usually I can hit sideways on the upper knuckle and have the whole spindle just drop out. Sometimes if its pesky, put the upper nut on upsidedown, thread it down until its just shy of exposing the stud. Place a small hardwood block 1 inch thick on the nut and smack it with a 3lb hammer.

Usually unless they're crazy rusted, they fall out pretty quick. If you use a pickle fork, you might have to replace the ball joint after you tear up the boot.

C-frame ball joint press tool is your bestest bestest friend ever.