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99v10 Something is wrong PLEASE advice

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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #16  
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took it to a different shop today and they are telling me that I have to have a vacumn leak somewhere but didnt want to look for it or deal with fixing it. Any of you guys ever change a v10 intake gaskets before.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 11:50 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Mathew99v10
took it to a different shop today and they are telling me that I have to have a vacumn leak somewhere but didnt want to look for it or deal with fixing it. Any of you guys ever change a v10 intake gaskets before.
I don't see a vacuum leak causing your problems, but I've been wrong before.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 01:21 AM
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When you changed the PCV valve, did the hose look ok? I've heard about a leak in the elbow.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 01:33 AM
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the hose was really dry but I didnt see any signs of leaks. I did change out the hose anyways.

I noticed tonight when I turned the heater on it bogged down the motor a couple hundred rpms. Never noticed it before, should it do that?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 01:55 AM
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I wonder if a dirty MAF sensor would cause this? Might want to try cleaning it with CRC MAF sensor cleaner. Be careful cleaning it. It's very fragile. I've heard to disconnect the ground to the battery after cleaning for about 10 seconds or so to let it re-learn.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 02:12 AM
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yeah going to clean the maf and do a vacumn test today. any tips on locating where the leak could be. I have felt around listened and inspected items I could get to and cant find one. Also someone told me to use propane in the area where a leak could be is this a good or bad idea.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mathew99v10
yeah going to clean the maf and do a vacumn test today. any tips on locating where the leak could be. I have felt around listened and inspected items I could get to and cant find one. Also someone told me to use propane in the area where a leak could be is this a good or bad idea.
I have not heard of using propane. Couldn't tell you if it is a good or bad idea. Someone else can chime in.

I can see a vacuum leak could cause an EVAP code, but that system is just to check to make sure your fuel tank doesn't have a leak letting gas evaporating causing ozone depletion in the atmosphere. You may want to check your gas cap and make sure the gasket is still good. This shouldn't make you have a misfire.

May want to check the camshaft position sensor and see if the wire and harness is good. A bad CPS could cause the computer to not know when to send a signal to the coil, thus fuel not being burned (misfire?).

Just throwing some ideas out there. Hope you find what's wrong.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 10:24 AM
  #23  
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thanks i will check that out also
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 01:40 PM
  #24  
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I don't think that I'd want to use propane, but to each their own. I was always told to use carb cleaner. It will either make the engine die, or make the rpms go higher...it depends how bad the leak is. If the rpms change significantly where you spray the carb cleaner, then there's a leak there. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 05:45 PM
  #25  
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Even tho they are worlds apart, my wife's van showed very similar syptoms last year. Same deal with the scanner too, just told me misfire detected. Turned out to be failed synchronizer shaft that the CPS takes reading from. CPS is what I would check next.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 06:08 PM
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Any results from the MAF cleaning?

If not better, try moving coils around. In particular, move the coils from cylinders 2 and 9 to other cylinders and see if the misfire moves with them.
You did use Motorcraft coils, right?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:06 PM
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as far as the coils go I had a complete set that I had taking off an excursion we did a tune up on. Nothing was wrong with them so I figured it wouldnt hurt to have some laying around and glad I did cause I didnt know about the coil problems at that time. I mixed and moved them around and it didnt matter either random misfire or 2an9 came up. Then I bought 10 new motorcrafts same deal. I have checked the coil wiring all seems well. Injectors also.

Cleaned the maf, throttle body, checked the crankps and camps. seemed a little better but not fixed. Also checked for vac leaks with some starter fluid as the propane i couldnt really control didnt find anything. Hooked up vacumn gauge holds steady at about 20 rev up drops down to 0 or so and right back up to about 25 and back to 20 so I would assume no leak.

I did a check on voltage with key off battery is at 11.7? at idle about 13.2 and at 2000 rpms with everything on drops to about 13 even + a little bit maybe not enough volts for this big boy I cant seem to find anything about where it should be at.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 11:54 PM
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Mine at idle is about 13.7V to 14V. When cold before starting, it measures 12V. 11.7V is low. I'm surprised it'll crank.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 01:03 AM
  #29  
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Im going to pull the alternator and take it be bench tested and replace if need be going to get a new battery as well this one was bought in 08
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 01:11 AM
  #30  
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After reading these forums for quite some time, I've learned so much. There are so many sensors on these engines, it's mind boggling. I've started to compile a list of all sensors and such and their locations.

One sensor I just realized that may have something to do with it is a knock sensor. This sensor detects when your engine starts to knock due to lower octane gas and adjusts the timing to prevent "dieseling". Since you did mention about a knock sound in your original post, I thought this may be something you could have checked. It's underneath the intake manifold and must be removed to change it.
 
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