1965 352 FE specs
I got these specs out of the catalog...
352 FE with stock 2v carburator (Autolite 2100) with oil back air cleaner (1 pint oil capacity)
Hosepower Gross: 208 @ 4400
Horsepower Net: 172 @ 4000
Torque Gross: 315 @ 2000
Torque Net: 295 @ 2000
Compression: 8.9:1
I have a couple questions...
What's the difference between gross and net ratings?
I bought and installed a K&N air filter with the X-Treme top. It made a BIG difference in power, even with the single exhaust. Any ideas how much horsepower this might be? My "Butt Dyno" says somewhere around 10...is that a bit too high?
Is there a rough estimate how much power an aluminum intake manifold and 4v carb would add?
And finally, how much power would a good dual exhaust setup add?
I'm not looking for show quality, just want a good-breathing engine.
Thanks guys!
And I'm thinking net is with accesories (alternator, fan, etc.) and measured at trans output shaft.
Maybe someone will let us know.....
Net is actual wheel horsepower under normal conditions..
A good intake with a 4V should get you realistically depending upon type and set up anywhere from 20- 40 hp but to see a true improvement you might want to swap in a higher performance cam too
Losing the stock logs and installing headers, and dual exhaust, can net you AS MUCH AS 40 hp gain... since the stock FE logs are very restrictive, but more realistically 20hp. Mind you this will be mostly mid range and top end horsepower. You get better torque with some back pressure.
Remember when you do these mods you need to re-tune accordingly ie; advance the timing, Also make sure that your vacuum advance is working properly, and is adjusted properly... and upgrade to a better Dizzy is always a help, but stick with a vacuum advance Dizzy so you can maintain semi respectable mileage.
The exhaust like stated above is one of the worst designs out there, and I would pretty much expect 40hp on a 390 so a 352 maybe 30hp?
Electric fan maybe another 5-8 depending on whom you believe.
A good exhaust is added into the header selection becouse they usually only add 5-10hp.
The one thing is the more you add the less you get. Diminishin returns.
If its 200 gross hp, and you do every resonable mod. Headers, exhaust, 4 barrel, electric fan, and a electronic ignition. You probily would end up with 250-260 hp, but the torque will likely get a touch above 350lb foot. While not a power house it will be as good as it gets, and will be a blast to drive. Plus you'd likely get better economy then before provided you can keep the wow peddle tamed.
But, for '72 and later, here's the deal on gross/net:
Horsepower: Making it Add Up
If you have insomnia, google "sae gross vs. sae net" and read on for hours, with items like this, which has some good examples:
http://ateupwithmotor.com/automotive...orsepower.html
RWHP vs Flyweel HP with a C-6 is approx 120hp, a toploader is about 100hp from flywheel to wheels. Not sure on a Cruise O Matic as never dynoed both but would expect around 60-80 diff.
My guess at wheels on a stock 352 would be approx 125hp with a auto trans. Could be less.
Years ago I dynoed a bunch on engine dyno then installed and went to a chassis dyno to see the diffs, above numbers were very close each time. This was on engines in the 400-500hp area and going thru a 9" axle.
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I think I'll keep my 2v Autolite 2100 and invest in some headers and a free-flowing exhaust. If I want to upgrade to a 4v down the road, the exhaust will already be done when I get to that point.
But this 2v carb does everything I ask...just need to open up the exhaust to help this engine purrrrr
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