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2006 6.0 in a F350 with 125,000. I've owned the truck a year. It's always had to be cranked 3-4 seconds when cold (regardless of ambient temp). Today I was driving and stopped at the store. Come back out and no start. Batteries are fine. No smoke out tailpipe. FICM tested at 48volts even with the batteries drained down from cranking the truck trying to start it. Put a code reader on and didn't have any trouble codes. I pulled the plug for the drain on the fuel filter on the frame. I then had my wife turn the ignition on. Fuel pump was very quiet and didn't build much pressure. I was able to easily hold my finger over the hole and keep fuel from squirting out.
How much pressure should the fuel pump be putting out? Is the fuel pump part of the fuel filter on the frame and not in the fuel tank? Is it possible the high pressure oil pump went? Is so, how can I test it? Any other ideas on what to look for?
Ok, this is pissing me off. I let it set for a few hours after paying to have it towed home. Damn thing fired right off! Arrrgggghhh. Now this is gonna be tough to figure out why it wouldn't start earlier. I figured out what the STC is. Where can I get the special adapter to hook a fuel pressure test gauge up to the filter housing? I found the port. But it takes a special fitting that I'm guessing is metric thread with a schrader valve on it.
Your problem sounds like a high pressure oil leak (STC fitting is most common for your year model). No-start hot, but starting cold is a very common symptom of the HPO leak.
The fuel pressure should be in the mid 60's (psig) at idle. If you just turn the key on (no crank) then the pressure will come up, but then the fuel pump will shut off and the pressure will bleed down.
The fuel pump is part of the frame rail mounted filter (HFCM).
When is the last time you changed oil & filter, and what make of filter do you use. Must be motorcraft, international or racor. Any other will giver you the problem you are having.
I wouldn't necessarily say that. The last STC fitting I replaced, ended up it had pushed the fitting into the rear cover causing it to crack, and leak oil externally from the right/rear upper corner of the engine. I ended up having to pull the transmission to replace the rear cover. NOT one of my favourite jobs to do on one of these trucks.
I wouldn't necessarily say that. The last STC fitting I replaced, ended up it had pushed the fitting into the rear cover causing it to crack, and leak oil externally from the right/rear upper corner of the engine. I ended up having to pull the transmission to replace the rear cover. NOT one of my favourite jobs to do on one of these trucks.
I have heard of this (probably from you). However, in the past I have had a number of folks say to me that it couldn't be an STC fitting leak because they do not see an external leak. Call me lazy, but it is simpler to say "No" (because it is somewhat unsusual to see such an extreme failure). Even qualifying it by saying "No, not usually" causes more confusion than help IMO. Also, the external leak is really due to the cover cracking and not the STC fitting leaking. The way I look at it is like asking "Will a water pump failure be visible by seeing oil in the coolant?" IMO the answer is no, but a lack of coolant flow surely can cause the oil cooler to overheat and fail.
Maybe I am just getting too impatient/lazy/whatever these days .....
When is the last time you changed oil & filter, and what make of filter do you use. Must be motorcraft, international or racor. Any other will giver you the problem you are having.
Less than 1,000 miles ago and all Motorcraft filters, including fuel filters.
I found it. Oil ring broken and disintegrating on the hp oil rail on the right side head. The plug with the hex on on it that is at the front of the rail right behind the ICP sensor. Of the two O-rings, it was the lower one. I found it by putting air into the sensor port. I did pull the turbo and energize the IPR valve and send air through the rest of the HP oil system. No air leaks! Yeah! Thanks for the help everyone. Now I just have to wait through the weekend for the dealership to open so I can get a new O-ring. Do the O-rings come in kits? If so, what do they all cover? I can only imagine what this would have cost me in labor if I'd had the dealer do it.
The lower d-ring deterioration is and extremely common source of high pressure oil leak on late 2005 to 2007 6.0L diesels. If you want to replace just that one rail plug, the part number is -W302908 for just one plug. If you want the update kit that includes two dummy rail plugs and two standpipes along with the crankcase breather o-ring, the part number is 6E7Z-9A332-B. You will need a 12mm allen key to install it, as opposed to the 10mm allen you used to remove the old one. Torque the plug to 60 ft-lbs. when installing.
The lower d-ring deterioration is and extremely common source of high pressure oil leak on late 2005 to 2007 6.0L diesels. If you want to replace just that one rail plug, the part number is -W302908 for just one plug. If you want the update kit that includes two dummy rail plugs and two standpipes along with the crankcase breather o-ring, the part number is 6E7Z-9A332-B. You will need a 12mm allen key to install it, as opposed to the 10mm allen you used to remove the old one. Torque the plug to 60 ft-lbs. when installing.
How much does that kit usually run for both sides?
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