Well I am trying to be as prepaired as possible before my truck goes to a repair shop.

So here is whats going on. Since the morning after I bought the truck I have had what I diagnosed as a "stiction issue" I tried Hot shot secret once no improvment called to get my money back and got talked into another try. Ok no problem I'll give it another shot next oil change.

Went to North Idaho for vacation with my family. Had a couple of weird things happen.

1 abs light came on and cruise went down but still worked. next time I started truck light was off and never came back on ( dirty wheel sensor?)

2 leaving for home in morning and Had low power and weird shifts. warmed up everything seemed fine. fueled up.

3 about 100 miles toward home truck starts to feel shakey going uphill but in earstern washington all the roads feel a little shakey. about 300 mile into trip truck is running very poor under heavy acceleration(please just another 150 mi) stop to get fuel and things improve alot.

4 pluged in truck before work on tues morn truck started real rough like a slight missfire and unburt fuel smell but truck sounded better in about 1 min so i thought everything was fine. Had almost no real power going to work you could get up to speed slow but if you really got on it, it coughed and sputtered and got nowhere.

5 8hrs later getting off work it will try to start but after like one or two fires it dies out. tonight I had it towed home and started checking the FICM. when the wife first turns on the key it moves from 18v to 48.5v and then stays . when you turn it over it goes from 48.5v to 25.2v then dies.


I am pluged in now and wondering if it will start when it is up to temp again.


any input would be great , also if I can start it tomorrow I know a guy with a basic obdII code reader that should get the codes I need.

 

I would start by load testing the batteries. If they are fine, then move to repairing or replacing the FICM.

 

Bismic thanks for the reply and thanks for FICM test info in the tech folder.

I went out about an 2 hours after my last post and tried the truck again, pluged in and it started idled a little rough but should get me the half mile to the tire shop were my buddy has a code reader and a load tester. I will update tomorrow.

Also is the FICM replacement novice stuff or take it in?

 

Do it yourself stuff for sure - just have to be careful not to bend any connector pins (it is tight).

 

Is the CEL on? If it isn't, you might not get any codes with the generic code reader.

 

Load test on battery says 785cca@400amp load on each battery according to my buddy this is good.

He has a 2005 snap-on somthing or other 2500. or maybe it was older and could only be updated to 2005, in any event the code reader had an error and wanted a ford 1-b addaptor pluged in under left side of dash. we didn't see anything that it could plug into besides obd-II on right side .

The truck started after being pluged in and puffed out black smoke for about 45 sec. then idled rough , when i drove it I couldnt get over 25 mph on the way to the shop (only about 1/2 mile ) ideling at the shop was less rough. shut down tried code reader, then did battery load test . started back up great and accelerated much better but still not good got up to 45 on the way home.

I was just looking at the swamp diesel website and was thinking about the standard amp FICM it cost $750.00 that includes a $350.00 core charge from what I can tell that isn't a bad deal. samp diesel did't say if this would be a Ford original part or an aftermarket like you find in e-bay

Has anyone delt with Mark in California, he seems to have alot of OEM FICM for sale.

 

I got mine from buyautoparts on e-bay. Been 6 months now, still running good, don't know if it will keep running or not.

 

A friend of a friend had a code reader that got 10 ford specific codes on my truck

po261#1low
po264#2low
po267#3low
po270#4low
po273#5low
po275 contrabution balance
po276#6 low
po279#7 low
po282#8 low
and
po611 module configuration

we cleared all codes, restarted motor and tried to see what codes came up first. low voltage on #1 and 3-8 came right up after the short 40 sec run.

Should I try to test the FICM voltage while running to see if it is getting low or would that be redundent after those codes.

 

Hey John I didn't find that one on e-bay yet. How much? Any gaurantee?

 

I got a swamps, so far so good! only been a month though.

 

Well I went ahead and ordered the 48v no modifications FICM with a one year warentee for $750.00, (core $350.00 net cost $400.00) $65.00 to quick ship it. should be here by next weekend, said they couldn't fill the order untill next wed.

Keeping my fingers crossed that my first 6.0l breakdown could cost less than $1000.00.

Anyone have any other suggestions.

 

You did better than me, mine cost 460 bucks plus shipping. Can't remember, i think it had a 90 day warranty.

 

I decided to go ahead and remove the FICM and open it up. I was wondering before i sent it in if it had been soldered on. I wouldn't mail it in for a core if all I got was fifty bucks.





Maybe a good time to attack the small ccv leak.

 

"GOOD NEWS GOOD NEWS" Swamp's came through today took me 20mins to install and truck starts better than the day I bought it.

Want to thank everyone for thier input, and a special thanks to bismic for his tech folder info and setting me on the right course.

Greg