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But, it leaves a large soot and cloud of black smoke when it starts.
It slugs between gears 1st - 2nd - 3rd.
I have to clutch and rev then reshift. Runs great once it is warms. Except for the fact that it gets 10MPG 2WD and 4WD. Carburetor has been questionable since I first owned it.
The fastening bracket attaching the air cleaner is trash and the bolts that hold it in place are stripped.
It leaks a lot of un-clean air into the carb. I have been told that it is probably running EXTREMELY rich and that I should probably start with replacing the carburetor before I go through a full rebuild.
Excellent thoughts, but I have no answers... I need to look up the engine number. It is a standard 74 300 six. one barrel ford carburator. The actual air cleaner assembly is fine but needs a screw through the top into the top of the carburator to hold it on. the piece the crosses over the tob of the carburator and has the hole in it for the screw is broken and will not hold the air cleaner onto the carb tight. Also today found the the rich lean screw is stripped.
Sorry I was tired... "Slugs down" is actually supposed to be "bogs down"
And yes I guess that part of the question is does it need a rebuild. It runs fine after it really warms up 20- 30mins of running.
I was told to try and address the Carb problem first then worry about rebuilding if it doesn't get better. kinda the $200 jump before the big $400+ jump
Welcome to the site, TR. If the engine runs OK after it warms up, don't rebuild it yet. Once you get the carb and tuning right, you'll be surprised how good it will run.
The bogging is probably caused by a faulty accellerator pump in the carb. If it were mine, I would just buy a rebuilt carb, instead of trying to rebuild the old one. With a "new" carb and a little tuning, it should be good for many more miles.
Hey tell ya what, that carb is EEEz to rebuild and the kit's about $8.00--just make sure you get a new float as well and be accurate with the valve tab and definately adjust that CHOKE! That will do it everytime...
Do you have a vacuum guage? If you dont, find somone who does or buy one. If you rebuild the carb and fix the striped threads on the fuel screw, and still have problems, I would test the vacuum on your intake, it might be leaking air... Thats all I got for now. Buy a Rebuilt carb (the one you have might need rebuilding but the rebuilt ones I have seen come with a (if it dont work bring it back for a refund). and if you want more power and dont care too much for gas mileage (I had a stock 2bbl carb on and put on a edl 4bbl and get 3 mpg better, and the Air/Fuel is not set right, runs ritch) so if you want you can spend about 250$ on a low CFM carb. Hope my ideas help.
I agree with Eric. Check the choke first and hit the junkyard for an air cleaner. You might want to douse the carb down with a can of carb cleaner. Those 1 barrels are pretty simple and easy to fix.
Just my 2¢
Greg
Originally posted by Racerdave Do you have a vacuum guage? If you dont, find somone who does or buy one. If you rebuild the carb and fix the striped threads on the fuel screw, and still have problems, I would test the vacuum on your intake, it might be leaking air... Thats all I got for now. Buy a Rebuilt carb (the one you have might need rebuilding but the rebuilt ones I have seen come with a (if it dont work bring it back for a refund). and if you want more power and dont care too much for gas mileage (I had a stock 2bbl carb on and put on a edl 4bbl and get 3 mpg better, and the Air/Fuel is not set right, runs ritch) so if you want you can spend about 250$ on a low CFM carb. Hope my ideas help.
What do the rebuilts come with? Can I get a refund on this post?
If the idle mix screw is stripped and the air cleaner bracket on carb can't be repaired then you need a 'new' carb. Either look into buying a rebuilt one, or find a used one from a salvage yard and rebuild it yourself. I wouldn't bother rebuilding your current one if some parts of it are unrepairable.