Okay, I tried in the super duty forum with little response so I thought that I'd try here. I have a 2003 ford f250 4x4 w/ a 5.4 and a 6 speed manual and 3.73 gears. I have owned the truck about two weeks and I am trying to get the cruise control to work. Here's what I've done so far:
1. replaced buttons in steering wheel
2. replaced brake pressure sensor on the master cylinder
3. replaced the brake pedal position sensor
4. verified that all the fuses/ relays were good
5. got mad because the cruise still won't work?

It will pass the static test (verifying that the buttons work and that the computer responds) and then I get two flashes which is supposed to mean one of three things, 1 bad brake pedal position sensor, 2 bad clutch position sensor, or 3 fault in wiring.

I have checked the clutch switch and I get different voltages when the pedal is in compared to out. Is there supposed to be any power to any of the wires (except for the feed) when the pedal is out? If I remember right, the voltages change from about 7 volts when the pedal is out to 14 or more when the pedal is in, except for on of the wires and the feed(constant).

What do I need to look at/do next? Please any and all help is appreciated.

thanks for your time!

 

Has it had the recall done yet? If so, the fusible link might be blown. Verify that the recall has been done before proceeding!!

 

no recall for my truck, check with the dealer. Also with mine being manual it does not have/need the jumper harness. I got the jumper harness with my new brake pressure sensor and it will not fit my plug, mine already has the right plug on it for the new sensor.
thanks,
robert

 

Oh, ok. I'm pretty sure that it should be all or nothing on the switch output. Meaning 12-14V or 0. Might be a bad switch.

 

okay, figured out the problem. So there was a retainer of some kind, best described as a tin nut. It looked like it should have been inside the master cylinder for the clutch, but nothing looked broken and it wouldn't go in no matter how hard I tried. The retainer was keeping the switch from coming to a complete rest against the master cylinder...thus making the computer think that the clutch was being pushed in (even just a good tap on the pedal turns off the cruise). So I cut it off, now the switch rests properly and stays were it's supposed to (before it would ride back after a few short drives and hold the switch back). The only way that I can understand how it got there is that the p.o. had replaced the master cylinder for the clutch, and that retainer was supposed to be there for a different type of switch, the kind that has to be closest to the pedal so that the clutch has to be completely depressed to work. Obviously it isn't that way on this one, it needs to be against the clutch master cylinder housing, against the firewall. At any rate now it works, after replacing all the other stuff that was bad (the switches on the steering wheel, the brake pedal position switch, and a fuse put in the correct spot so that the brake master cylinder pressure switch had power. One step at a time I guess.
thanks,
robert

 

Thanks for the update!