Ok so pirate4x4 treats you like an idiot when you ask questions so heres my issue:

i have a 79 f150 d44 and f9in. i have a 4in stilt lift in the rear and a two inch stilt on the coil bucket with 4in spring. (go figure the front still sags).

but i have 6in coils for my front and i was gonna shackle flip the rear to get the extra space so i dont rub my 38.5x16wide tsls when im flexing.

I know im going to need a front driveshaft extention, but its also on too much of an angle and rubs the yoke on the tcase. Im going to have to cut the cross member to fit it. And i have cross over steering so thats no issue.

What do i have to do to get that angle right from the d44 to the tcase? everyone is saying cv but then i hear horror stories.. How would i go about angling my d44 with coils at my tcase? or is there an easier solution

 

welcome to FTE.
as i see it, you have two choices. CV joint, or changing the angle of the spring perches. this involves cutting the axle tube ends and spring perches off, rolling the axle until you have it where you want it, then welding the ends and spring perches back on.


and don't worry about being treated like an idiot here.
we are all idiots. some of us are just a little smarter than the others.

 

I were you, which Im not coincidentally, I'd set up your suspension and steering geometry first, get it the way you want without welding anything permanetly to the axle. Then, once your satisfied with the stance and that your steering is set up correctly, note the angle of your pinion in relation ship with your transfer case. You want your pinion pointed right the the transfer case if you can. But your problem will be those wedges that the radius arm bolts around. So like TJC said you'll have cut the weld off of the outer Cs (what the ball joints bolt to) with some careful grinding. Then drill out the welds holding in the dana 44 axle tubes and have them pressed out of the housing. Then 'simply' press them back in so the c wedges satisfy themselves in the radius arms. at the new angle. and pound the outers until you get the the -5* angle or whatever it is, so that your truck does not have scary steering.

That of course is option one. Which would get the axle set up right, but not in a timely manner. Option two would be a 1350 cv at the transfer case, if these will even fit. Option three would be sorta what I did which is a 1410 u joint and yoke at the axle end (though I would think you'd be hard pressed to find this for a dana 44) and a 1410 joint at the transfer case. My take a little grinding on the transfer case yoke, but it would handle the angle with fairly little vibration.

Please give us the full stats of your truck and your intentions and we can better help you weigh your options.

 

cv shaft out of a 78/79 Bronco would work wouldn't it?

 

Yea my bad sorry. I have a 351mod with a toploader 4 speed trans and a np205 tcase with a d44 and ford 9inch.

I keep seeing plenty of truck with no problems in the front driveshaft area but its also because they have the c6 which is a longer trans or they have a divorced tcase. The toploader is like a whole 9 inches to a footlong

 

t-case clocking ring. costs about $50-80.

 

that seems like the best solution, i never knew that existed. Sorry im new to 4x4 i usually just build hotrods. With that i can prob do my 6-8inches with no problem. Im just gonna have to custom fabricate my crossmember. Any downsides of a clocking ring?

 

Leverage Perhaps. But nothing too significant.

 

i might need to get one myself once i get off my *** and accomplish some progress on my truck, but from what i've seen they seem to drop the output enough to run the d-shaft under the crossmember. idk much on the 4 speeds but i guess ford in general uses a pretty standard tranny to t-case pattern with a key way between the two. if you have a shop and/or the time you can take the t-case and just notch in a new key way and avoid buying a clocking ring all together if you wanna go the cheapest route. the only downside i have heard on the clocking rings is there is less spline engagement on the input shaft due to it spacing the trans and t-case apart.. how much of an effect this has on strength is questionable as they make them as thin as possible. if you just notch and turn the t-case this is a non issue.

 

ill have to check it out, if i can notch it with a dremel or an angle grinder easily i might just try that route

 

check it out. once you are under there and have them apart you will see what i mean better than what i can type here. seems like a 4'' cutoff wheel and a die grinder/dremel would be about the perfect tools for the job.

 

im guessing youve seen it done and work fine before? Just wanna make sure before i go cutting up my 205 :P

 

nope, not in person, but i did have thick enough skin to stick around and read and post on pirate :flipoff:

they may be dicks over there, but read and use the search feature as much as you can. they are a huge base of *******s/tech sources.

 

Put a doubler in there, your front driveshaft will get longer, and you can clock the 205 any way you want.....

BUT that's a expensive option.

If its really extreme, you could just rotate the t case to the next set of bolt holes, or drill new ones in the trans adapter where you want them. I'd say that drilling would be the cheapest option. Just toss that alignment pin in the trash when you do it.


O and Dan, fyi, there is no keyway between the trans and Tcase. Its a single round pin between two of the bolt holes. The pin in tossed in the trash with a clocking ring, or a doubler.

 

Dave loves the clock :flipoff: