Front whel bearings
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
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From: Long Island, NY
Front whel bearings
I got my hubs today and I am looking for some info on how to get them ****ers on. A digram would be nice. And if I have to replace the bearings how do you get the races out?
Thanks
Ps I used to have a link to a ford sevice manual untill my last computer crashed. I would like to get that back if any on can post it for me
Thanks
Ps I used to have a link to a ford sevice manual untill my last computer crashed. I would like to get that back if any on can post it for me
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 104
From: Ashland City, TN
if your going from auto's to manuals, you need the conversion kit.
to get the bearing cups out, use a copper or brass drift and work them out, and then reverse to put the new bearing cups in.
I dont' remember the torque specs for the install.
If the hubs are the same as the d44.
then you'll put your nuts and stuff in and get them locked down.
then put the hub in and the retaining clips then bolt the cap over that with the alan screws.
to get the bearing cups out, use a copper or brass drift and work them out, and then reverse to put the new bearing cups in.
I dont' remember the torque specs for the install.
If the hubs are the same as the d44.
then you'll put your nuts and stuff in and get them locked down.
then put the hub in and the retaining clips then bolt the cap over that with the alan screws.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,799
Likes: 104
From: Ashland City, TN
The manual hubs more or less float in the hub, while the automatics are kinda always working in some respect with the front drive train.
Having never taken auto hubs apart, I am not sure for certain.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: West Texas
That's only for the F250 and the only thing different is the lock nut when switching it to manual. It has to be converted to a double lock nut for most aftermarket manuals. F350's also don't usually use the snap ring but I've seen it on a couple older dana 60's that came from a junk yard I guess. You don't need it on a dana 60 either when you use warn manuals. The axle isn't going anywhere.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Long Island, NY
About that online manual for for trucks. I recall it saying something about the wheel bearing grease has to be the right type. I think it said something about not mixing one grease with whatever ford used. Any one have any detail on that?
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From: Southern IN
Don't end up like I did, truck torn apart and not having the correct wheel bearing locknut socket. I have every freaken size but the one I needed. Come to find out I needed Napa part # 3456. Which on the back says fits special 2-3/4 rounded hex nuts found on 1995-F-250 and F-350 Ford trucks that have 4WD with automatic locking hubs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Happenstance.......... I was just reading that haha
Here ya go:
The recommended wheel bearing lubricant is the lithium-base grease High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.
Sodium-base grease is not compatible with lithium-base grease and should not be intermixed. Therefore, before lubricating front or rear wheel bearings (1225), thoroughly clean all old grease from the bearing and front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
Here ya go:
The recommended wheel bearing lubricant is the lithium-base grease High Temperature 4x4 Front Axle and Wheel Bearing Grease E8TZ-19590-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.
Sodium-base grease is not compatible with lithium-base grease and should not be intermixed. Therefore, before lubricating front or rear wheel bearings (1225), thoroughly clean all old grease from the bearing and front disc brake hub and rotor (1102).
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
if your going from auto's to manuals, you need the conversion kit.
to get the bearing cups out, use a copper or brass drift and work them out, and then reverse to put the new bearing cups in.
I dont' remember the torque specs for the install.
If the hubs are the same as the d44.
then you'll put your nuts and stuff in and get them locked down.
then put the hub in and the retaining clips then bolt the cap over that with the alan screws.
to get the bearing cups out, use a copper or brass drift and work them out, and then reverse to put the new bearing cups in.
I dont' remember the torque specs for the install.
If the hubs are the same as the d44.
then you'll put your nuts and stuff in and get them locked down.
then put the hub in and the retaining clips then bolt the cap over that with the alan screws.
The auto hubs use a different lock nut on the spindle and the hubs bolt into the spindle differently than the manual hubs.
The manual hubs more or less float in the hub, while the automatics are kinda always working in some respect with the front drive train.
Having never taken auto hubs apart, I am not sure for certain.
The manual hubs more or less float in the hub, while the automatics are kinda always working in some respect with the front drive train.
Having never taken auto hubs apart, I am not sure for certain.
The manual and automatic hubs all are installed the same way. The spindle nut (whichever style you have) goes in then you install the hub internal pieces. They snap in with a snap ring in one way or another (this is the only difference, some use a spiral ring and others use a standard ring). Then the cap is screwed onto the internal piece using 3 or 6 screws.
The manuals are engaged using the manually operated round selector on the outside of the hub. The automatics are engaged automatically when the front driveshaft has power put to it. The auto hubs are not engaged all the time and they don't work in any different respect to the front drivetrain than the manuals do.
I just switched from auto's to Warn premiums. I used the same spindle nut and everything. To switch from manuals to autos or autos to manuals just swap the entire hub pieces. Not the hub the rotor mounts to, just the hub that goes into it.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Long Island, NY
Thanks. One set I have is stamped CHINA. I am hoping the ones on my truck are OEM. I think I will have them cut if it looks like they are. I am sure I can get new ones for the same price as getting mine cut but if they are garbage why bother. You might want to see if you can get stock ones in a junk yard but I cant imagine how you can tell if they are OEM. Maybe a part number is on it?
