300 6
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2011
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300 6
79 300 6 wants to stay running when i shut it off....it does not happen all the time,but it sometimes it makes another"revolution" once key is turned to off postion.
things i think it may be:just would llike some input so i wont replace more than needed
ignition?
timing is off?
vacuum advance may be bad and indeed may be advanced timing to compensate?...
just bought it saved from certain death for 500 bucks
replaced so far:
rear springs,shocks,ubolts,rear brakes,e-brake cables,gas tank,sending unit,fuel filler tube,alternator,cap, rotor,wires,regulator,fuel pump/filter,carb rebuild,dash instrument cluster,several bulb sockets,exhaust manifold,pcv valve and battery.
seems to be running good,bit of rough idle not bad. other than wanting to stay running when shut off and Minnesota rust, this things about road "safe" worthy
as always i appreciate the input
things i think it may be:just would llike some input so i wont replace more than needed
ignition?
timing is off?
vacuum advance may be bad and indeed may be advanced timing to compensate?...
just bought it saved from certain death for 500 bucks
replaced so far:
rear springs,shocks,ubolts,rear brakes,e-brake cables,gas tank,sending unit,fuel filler tube,alternator,cap, rotor,wires,regulator,fuel pump/filter,carb rebuild,dash instrument cluster,several bulb sockets,exhaust manifold,pcv valve and battery.
seems to be running good,bit of rough idle not bad. other than wanting to stay running when shut off and Minnesota rust, this things about road "safe" worthy
as always i appreciate the input
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,513
Likes: 394
From: W. Central FL.
Sounds like it has "run on" or dieseling. Caused by hot spots in the combustion chamber. Carbon build up broken plugs, anything that leaves a hot spot that ignites the fuel air mixture. A tune up may correct it. "Rough idle"?
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i did replace plugs, cap, rotor and wires,along with the carb rebuild. what else consists of a "tune up"?
coulda malfunctioning heat exchanger on exhaust manifold cause these "hot spots"?
montanahighboy: on my carter one barrel there is only one mixture screw on pass. side in back of carb....which way is lean,which way is rich....i set screw to my local auto parts store specs...which is 2 1/2 turns out from all the way in....is there a factory "spot" to set timing from TDC?
by the way..it does smell a little "fuelly" at idle.
coulda malfunctioning heat exchanger on exhaust manifold cause these "hot spots"?
montanahighboy: on my carter one barrel there is only one mixture screw on pass. side in back of carb....which way is lean,which way is rich....i set screw to my local auto parts store specs...which is 2 1/2 turns out from all the way in....is there a factory "spot" to set timing from TDC?
by the way..it does smell a little "fuelly" at idle.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,159
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From: Suburbs of Chicago
When it comes to idle mixture screws, in is always lean. With idle speed, in is always faster. Lean usually = faster as well, so keep that in mind.
I'm thinking its a combination of running a little lean and a idle speed that's a little too fast. Could be helped by timing problems.
Once you get all of your carb and timing issues taken care of, see if it still diesels. If it does, it's due to carbon buildup. Running sea-foam or a similar product may help.
I'm not sure of the exact degree for your timing, it should be printed on your valve cover.
The "fuelly" smell is probably because it isn't burning right and doesn't have cats.
I'm thinking its a combination of running a little lean and a idle speed that's a little too fast. Could be helped by timing problems.
Once you get all of your carb and timing issues taken care of, see if it still diesels. If it does, it's due to carbon buildup. Running sea-foam or a similar product may help.
I'm not sure of the exact degree for your timing, it should be printed on your valve cover.
The "fuelly" smell is probably because it isn't burning right and doesn't have cats.
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Tuned
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TWENTY BUCKS???? Where??? I just did mine and it cost over $50!
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Junior User
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lol my mistake,i looked up vacuum advance part,not egr,yes you are right at anywhere from 50 to 80 buck. memory gets jumbled when theres my kids...being kids(loud).in the backround
I am going to adjust timing and mixture screw/idle screw first before i try to egr.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
That's going to be it. Removing the EGR system leaves the engine running lean, with too steep of a timing curve. This increases combustion chamber temperatures, which makes carbon deposits in the engine act like glow plugs. Any path for air to enter to the throttle plates, and off it goes. I bet you have spark knock too.
It's time-consuming to retune the engine to compensate for the loss in the EGR system; it's much more practical to restore the EGR system. The engine won't run any better without the EGR system, even if you happen to nail the fuel mix and timing curve; so there's no reason to remove it in the first place.
It's time-consuming to retune the engine to compensate for the loss in the EGR system; it's much more practical to restore the EGR system. The engine won't run any better without the EGR system, even if you happen to nail the fuel mix and timing curve; so there's no reason to remove it in the first place.