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The temperature control (climate control?) in my "97" Ford Explorer always blows hot air even when turned all the way to cool( blue ) and the ac switch will work in the max position but not in the ac or dash vent position ( blows hot ), also the temperature guage has been climbing to the normal operating temp much faster than ever before ( but has never over heated ) and will never drop below this position even on the coldest of days at any speed. New thermostat didn't help
any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
I searched this forum and the 97-03 F150 forum trying to find a similiar problem. I found your earlier post and that was about it. Several reported on the cold air from the heater but I have not found one (yet) with a problem similiar to yours.
I have the same problem with my 1996 Explorer. The temperature control worked fine last fall but now, nothing but heat. I am trying to get hold of an OEM <a href="http://motorhaven.autoanything.com/">shop manual</a> for my 96 Explorer to see if I can fix it myself. I smell an expensive dealer repair otherwise...
I'm not familiar with the A/C control on your model year, but if you have the automatic climate control, you might want to consider the air blend door in the air plenum under your dash board. On the automatic temperature controls, there is a plastic or nylon "door" that swings back and forth to give you the right amount of hot and cold air (coming from the heater core, or AC coils) chambers of your plenum. If this door gets stuck one way or the other, you will get either continuous hot air, or cold air. The only way to shut off the hot air is to have the heater core valves close, which you could do on a 1995 model by selecting MAX AC.
When I had this problem with my 1995 I found out from several different forums that it was a common problem and that Ford eventually replaced the plastic design with a nylon design to keep it from breaking. I could hear the door trying to move as I took the temperature up and down. If this is your problem, the unfortunate thing is that the whole dash has to come out to replace the plenum and air blend door. I was about 12 bolts into the activity and my dash had no intention of even budging, so I finally took it to the dealer. $800+ later, I was fixed up. In hindsight, since the entire plenum had to be replaced anyway, I would like to have opened the plenum up with a dremel tool and try to do a more creative repair of the air blend door and save the $800 at least for a little while.
I read the post that Raceguy pointed out and it worked like a charm! I epoxied two 6 penny nails that I cut and filed to size to the actuator arm and it works fine. I tried drilling the actuator arm and putting a small finish nail through the hole, per the thread instructions, but it did not line up exactly. I did not want to keep drilling and ruin the actuator arm so I decided to epoxy the filed and cut nail shafts to each side of the actuator arm (see diagram from Racerguys link). Before I epoxied the nail shafts, I taped the nail shafts firmly to the actuator to test that it would work. The test worked but the tape broke, so there is a sizable amount of force being exerted by the actuator arm. I let the epoxy dry overnight then added another coat just to be sure. I let that coat cure for an hour or so and then re-installed the actuator.
Thanks everyone for all your suggestions and help!