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Ok.so I was hearing a grinding squeaky sound Turns out wheel bearings were bad replaced them.now I have play in my rear drivshaft and still hearing noise.I was trying to find new u joints but keeps coming back with whole driveshaft.does this mean you can't replace just the u joints?
it depends on if you have a spicer style driveshaft or a gky-cv style driveshaft. If you have the spicer style shaft, then yes you can replace the u-joints. On the other hand, if you have the cv style driveshaft, it is just that...it uses cv joints instead of u-joints, and may be easyer/cheaper to just replace the whole thing, and it is hard to find just the cv joint for them.
With older trucks, if you scrimp on quality & tow heavy loads... Your
u-joints will give you the "tell-tale, tink-tink" noise when they are about to
fail! Thank goodness I never lost a driveshaft...but, I came close a few
times! NEVER take your undrercarrige or driveline for granted! Always,
stay on top of regular maintenance!
Ok.thanks for all the info. But now how do I tell which style I have.the one I have looks like a regulars old driveshaft.but I guess that doesn't mean anything.
Assuming it is an '89 like your user name suggests, the factory driveshaft would be a gky-CV style. If it looks like a regular old driveshaft, then it is an aftermarket driveshaft that someone has put in (it's a common "upgrade"). The computer's at most parts stores seem to assume OEM style parts, which is probably why the parts lookup computer is coming back with whole driveshafts only - it is assuming you still have the OEM driveshaft. You'll probably have to take the driveshaft/u-joints into the parts store and match up the u-joints in person.
Is a cheap one! And if you have any "hard duty" plans for your truck, then
do not scrimp on an item that might leave you stranded! My old 1982 Ford
has only been towed twice, once due to an electrical problem, & the
second time was when she threw a connecting rod after 289k miles!
I ran the gky-CV style when I first got my truck MANY years ago, but when that went it was the first upgrade I ever gave my B2. When the gky-CV style (or any style really) goes out, you will experience vibration and sometimes a noise that can be more of a squeal. No that I run the spicer, all I do is grease them after I go wheeling to expel any contaminants and good as new. A whole new drive line will cost anywhere from 250 on the low to 400 on the high, James Duff has one that will bolt right on. You give them the measurement and they will make it and ship it to you, but you can also go to any drive line shop and you'd be OK. Good luck!
Don't run to the junkyard and start grabbing driveshafts, my 86 auto 4x4, (partstruck)88 man 4x4, and (partstruck)90something auto 4x2, all have diffrent length driveshafts, course mine was the shortest one. Thought i'd use the 4x2's cv style shaft front joint to replace mine, nope. shaft is also bigger. Made boot replacement a nightmare, cuase they don't sell boot kits that i could find.
If it's a "upgraded" driveshaft it will have U-joints at both ends. They are replaceable but you need to know what size U-joints they are. You will need to go to an OLD SCHOOL auto parts store where the guy in there KNOWS his parts. The U-joint is a 1210 I know this because I have the "upgraded" shaft in mine and have ordered a couple for them. I've orded the heavy duty ones from Rockford Rockford Constant Velocity - Manufacturer of Driveline Parts, Front and Rear part number
K443-1