Maybe someone here could help!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,771
Likes: 3
From: Louisiana
Maybe someone here could help!
Not that I didn't get any help on the other sd page but I'm running out of ideas and just looking for any ideas not thought of. Here's the thread, if you want just reply on here!https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1048602
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,771
Likes: 3
From: Louisiana
Try this.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1048602
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,116
Likes: 6
From: metairie, LA
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,386
Likes: 1
From: Spokane, WA
Here is the link, I am still reading the thread. Its very interesting (nobody knows)!!!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-draining.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-draining.html
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Not that I didn't get any help on the other sd page but I'm running out of ideas and just looking for any ideas not thought of. Here's the thread, if you want just reply on here!Resovior still draining - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
You can also simply add a a gauge to the heads one at a time ,& then block off the pump to verify it , done in three separate tests .. Have you verified the oil by pass valve under the oil filter is still in place ?
Heres some info from swamps on what you will need :
Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,771
Likes: 3
From: Louisiana
Lake Charles! And thanks with helping me get the link up or thanks for doing it I should say!! I'm on my I phone so that's why my sig isn't up.
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Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
So which parts haven't you swapped or replaced yet? Seems like you've tried dang near everything in the book.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,771
Likes: 3
From: Louisiana
Ok so tonight I checked and my res was empty even with the hpo lines disconnected! I guess that's a good thing.. So I went ahead and pulled the res off again, this time it was low enough that it didn't spill any when I pulled the res. When I ran the dipstick down inside through the fill plug I made sure it went to the bottom where the screen is, it was right to the full mark on the dipstick. So after starring at it puzzled I decided to fill the bottom of the res as full as I could get it without it draining in the case. Not sure if the oil was already there or not but there was some oil running out of the hole on the pas side, I think it's a pop off valve or something, don't know. I'm letting it sit all day and I'm gonna see if it goes down from that spot and see if that hole dries up. Seemes like there shouldn't be any oil coming out of that hole unless it was by passing or does that valve serve another function? Anyways I feel like the closer I get the further away from figuring this thing out I am!!
