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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

What to look for...

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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:26 AM
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What to look for...

Hey guys. I'm a slick (1966) owner now looking to add an old 48-52 PU to use for occasionally hauling stuff around. What should I look for in terms of where they rust and what are expensive problems to avoid.
How about the flathead 6 vs the V8? Where is the VIN stamped? How is it decoded?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:55 AM
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Hello. The absolute number one thing to look at, in my opinion, are those fenders. If they're rusted, you're in for some big bucks to replace them with fiberglass ones (good used metal ones are becoming the "Holy Grail" of our hobby) or repair what you have. Look at the seam between the upper and lower sections of the front fenders. It catches mud and the rust will come through just above that seam on the outside. Also, the cab corners and the floor pans (as usual) need to be checked. As far as pre-fabbed patch panels go, you can buy patches for the floor pans, the cab corners, and some limited parts of the fenders where they attach to the running boards. You can buy a complete reproduction bed for the half tons (F1's), but there are no reproduction fenders, hoods, cabs or doors right now. Look at the northern classic trucks website. As far as the frame, be sure to check the crossmember on the back where the park cable is attached. That is relatively thin, and the lower section where it goes into the C-channel of the frame tends to rot out. Otherwise, the frames usually survive somewhat intact. The VIN number is stamped on a plate on the firewall on the passenger side under the hood, also on the glove box, and (harder to find without a good wire brush and plenty of light) it's also stamped on the top of the right front frame rail near the front engine mount.

As far as the engine, not a big deal in my opinion between the 6 and the 8, BUT the parts are harder to find for the in-line six. Good luck.

Check out this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...n-cut-off.html It will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the VIN numbers and the cowl stampings.
 

Last edited by Doc; Mar 21, 2011 at 11:01 AM. Reason: added the vin number thread address
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Mountaindoc
You can buy a complete reproduction bed for the half tons (F1's), but there are no reproduction fenders, hoods, cabs or doors right now.
I think that's true for the '48-'50 trucks but there are replacement front and rear fenders available for the '51-'52 F1's. Good luck with your search
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by lvin4jc33
I think that's true for the '48-'50 trucks but there are replacement front and rear fenders available for the '51-'52 F1's. Good luck with your search
Are you talking about fiberglass replacement fenders or metal ones? If you are talking about metal ones that are being reproduced, I'd like to know where.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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I found a fairly solid 50 F2. The rockers and floors are solid along with most of the body. There are small spots on the bed and of course the wood is long rotted out. The V8 isn't locked up and there's no brake pressure. The seat is trashed, but the rest of the interior should clean up of mouse turds. There's a little rust in one of the doors and a dent here and there. It's less than 1000, but in order to sell its acquisition to SWMBO it needs to run and she's going to want to watch it drive off a trailer. How much would I typically have to spend to get such a truck? If the price goes up exponentially, it may benefit me to just drop this one off at a shop and get them to make it fit the criteria. It's not that it will exceed my abilities, it's just about what I can bring home without getting stuck on the couch for the foreseeable future. Thoughts?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 08:50 PM
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From your description, it sounds like it's in decent enough shape. If you can buy it as is for under a grand, it's probably a pretty good deal. The unknown will be the condition of the engine and if it'll run. If so, you're golden. If not, you could drop 5K at shop rates pretty quickly, depending on how deep they have to go to make it go.

Brakes are easy enough to go through. They're really not any different than your '66. But if it's been sitting for any length of time, you're looking minimum at master cylinder, wheel cylinders and lines front to back. The old stuff will be full of rust and sludge, and not worth messing with. Add at least $500. It's more important to be able to stop while rolling off the trailer and not into the wife's car, than powering down.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Mountaindoc
Are you talking about fiberglass replacement fenders or metal ones? If you are talking about metal ones that are being reproduced, I'd like to know where.
No, I don't know of any repro steel fenders just fiberglass although there are a few genuine NOS fenders that come across the block at eBay every blue moon, however, they'll cost you an arm and a leg plus your firstborn. I don't know where the OP lives but he's already mentioned being concerned about rust and fiberglass fenders don't rust.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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I just googled "SWMBO". That's more abbreviation than my little brain can handle. I have no clue where you are located, but that truck for less than a grand with an engine that is not totally shot would be a pretty decent deal around here. Keep in mind that the parts are sometimes harder to find for the bigger trucks. Also, not to bring this up again, but the fenders are different for the bigger trucks as compared to the F1 fenders (i.e. I don't think there is a supplier of fiberglass fenders for the larger trucks, and, if you go with metal replacements, you have to find the ones with the larger wheel openings.) But I'd say go for it and tell your wife that you're gonna live dangerously and hope it runs someday.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 09:54 PM
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SWMBO is Mustang jargon for "She Who Must Be Obeyed"

I'm in Kansas City

I though the F2 shared fenders with the F1?? If not, what's the difference?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bluestang65
I though the F2 shared fenders with the F1?? If not, what's the difference?
The F1 fenders are all by themselves. F2 thru F6 are the same. There's plenty of them out there, but condition will always be an issue with 60 year old used up truck sheetmetal. The only difference is the wheel openings are larger so the taller tires will fit and turn without rubbing. It's about 3" difference around the opening.

If you wanted to use fiberglass fenders and wanted the larger wheel opening, they would be simple enough to cut.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:20 PM
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Hey bluestang, I checked out your gallery. That's a great looking 66 you got there. An absolutely gorgeous 66 pulled in behind me in the Wendy's drive thru the other night. I flagged the guy down to take a look. It was painted 2 tone with baby blue and white. Please post pics if you buy a truck.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mountaindoc
Hey bluestang, I checked out your gallery. That's a great looking 66 you got there. An absolutely gorgeous 66 pulled in behind me in the Wendy's drive thru the other night. I flagged the guy down to take a look. It was painted 2 tone with baby blue and white. Please post pics if you buy a truck.
Thanks for the compliments. If you check out my blog, you can see the old thing torn completely apart. It's a long way from fixed up, but I'm working on it. My last entry was completely tearing the frame apart.
God willing, it'll make for a pretty impressive pickup when it's done. It's getting a 5.4 DOHC engine, 5 speed transmission and a Crown Vic front end. It was my great grandpa's truck followed by my grandpa's.
 
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