Coolant Electrolysis Problem
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Joined: Feb 2005
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Coolant Electrolysis Problem
Hey guys,
I had an electrolysis problem where, stray voltage in the coolant was eating heater cores for snacks, and recently ate my radiator for lunch.
I did a complete flush, new heater core, new radiator, thermostat etc. Used only distilled water and Prestone coolant.
I know that anything over 0.3 volts DC will eat the heater core, and eventually radiator.
After flushing and replacing everything, my digital voltmeter is showing -0.1 to -.08 volts.
The big question, is why is the voltage negative? Is it because the voltage in the coolant is grounding through my voltmeter and showing as negative?
Regardless, I'm guessing its safe to say that the readings are the same as positive voltage, and it's just my voltmeter freaking out. When I test for current, I'm holding the ground to the negative on the battery, and am dangling the positive lead into the coolant, making sure it touches nothing else. If I leave it in there long enough, 45 seconds+, it goes to -.05.
Thoughts, or opinions?
Thanks,
Chris
I had an electrolysis problem where, stray voltage in the coolant was eating heater cores for snacks, and recently ate my radiator for lunch.
I did a complete flush, new heater core, new radiator, thermostat etc. Used only distilled water and Prestone coolant.
I know that anything over 0.3 volts DC will eat the heater core, and eventually radiator.
After flushing and replacing everything, my digital voltmeter is showing -0.1 to -.08 volts.
The big question, is why is the voltage negative? Is it because the voltage in the coolant is grounding through my voltmeter and showing as negative?
Regardless, I'm guessing its safe to say that the readings are the same as positive voltage, and it's just my voltmeter freaking out. When I test for current, I'm holding the ground to the negative on the battery, and am dangling the positive lead into the coolant, making sure it touches nothing else. If I leave it in there long enough, 45 seconds+, it goes to -.05.
Thoughts, or opinions?
Thanks,
Chris
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 3,603
Likes: 10
From: Spokane, WA
I'm very challenged when it comes to technical electrical/electronic things but is this anything like why boat outdrives have items called galvanic or sacrifical anodes? Is it possible something like that might work on or in the cooling system in your truick?
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,540
Likes: 1
From: Southwest VA
Have you checked and tightened all your grounds ??? put a wrench on them.......frame, body (especially rad support), and engine to battery neg......then frame to body,engine to frame.....etc.....can't have too many grounds !
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,188
Likes: 384
From: Near Los Angeles
There is a type of rad. cap you can buy that has a dangling anode to rectify the problem. I just can't remember the name of the company. I'm sure that if you google it, you'll find something.
Now that I've checked, because I would like to use one myself, since I have an aluminum rad., there are a few companies that make them. Flex-o-lite has a kit, pt.# 32060, that screws into your pitcock drain. $20. Check on ebay for others. Oh, and Roe Racing is another maker.
Good luck.
Now that I've checked, because I would like to use one myself, since I have an aluminum rad., there are a few companies that make them. Flex-o-lite has a kit, pt.# 32060, that screws into your pitcock drain. $20. Check on ebay for others. Oh, and Roe Racing is another maker.
Good luck.
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