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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

truck cab interchange?

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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 09:40 AM
  #16  
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i just did this swap with a 1982 F-250 , i put a 95 cab on it, I wanted the old style dash and that required just a little bit of fab to mount it but nothing mayjor , i was able to make plates to send all the cables spedo , hood , and harness through the larger electrical plug for the newer computer that was not being used. also my new cab was for an auto and mine was a stick , but ford punched the holes for the shifter and the clutch arm but just never popped them out , so all i had to do it cut on the lines they left me. an earlier cab would deff be eaiser for a swap but good luck finding one , the 95 i bought came from MD and didnt have a spec of rust on it . also i noticed the heater box mounts a little differently but you just need to drill a few holes and it will just about cover the openings in the cab . you will just have to make a small block off plate otherwise it will draw all new air into the box from the cab and when you are driving it will send fresh air into the cab which in the colder months may not be good. another note which i havent gotten to yet is the fender mounts , the older fenders bolt to the cab with a bold that goes verticle up into the cab the newer cab takes a bolt horizontal.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #17  
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I've put an 83 nose on a 94 f250, the only issue I had was the front bumper. However, that won't be a problem for you.

The fenders are 99% bolt on between all the cabs. I think after the body style change in '87 the bottom hole in the fenders are different (80-86 bolts vertically, later cabs bolt horizontally). I cheated and bent the bottom of the fender down...not the nicest way to do it, but it worked.

Sorry if any of this is hard to understand, I kind of have a way with words...
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #18  
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ok i have a nice 93 cab in the works. pretty much rust free. its a automatic but i can see the holes for the shifter on the floor. so there should be a hole for the clutch pedal right?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 03:09 PM
  #19  
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If you plan on keeping the 1993 dash and components you will need newer pedals as the 93 dash and the 80-86 pedals will not work together.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:34 PM
  #20  
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ok how bout a 88? i can get the whole truck. its a auto too can i use my pedals in that cab? anything i should know about switching the 88 cab? im most likely going to go with that one.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:45 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
You will also have to drill a hole in the floor for the speedo cable as the 92+ cabs use digital odo's.
Believe it or not,t he hole is still there, just filled with a rubber plug. I used it when I ran the floor shift cable when I was automatic with the 92...
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #22  
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86-down pedal assembly's are supposed to be different than the 87-up assembly's. But you have both year cabs there, so I don't know what it would take it make the early pedals fit. Maybe it's just a bracket you could rob off the early cab and install it in the later cab?
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:01 PM
  #23  
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No the pedals and brackets are different due to the change in dash.

If you want to use a 1988 or 1993 cab and use the 1980-1986 pedals and brackets you will also have to swap the complete interior dash for a 1980-1986 style.

If you want to keep the 1988 or 1993 dash, you will need to get pedals from those years.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #24  
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ok guess im gonna change my mind again. guess im gonna have to go with a 84. its cheap its in ok shape and its the whole front of the truck. its also a stick so the swap should go pretty easy. Still looking for ways to lift the cab?

Also this should be a plug and play cab right? just plug in the connectors and everything should work right? shouldnt have to alter the wiring I hope.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #25  
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The cab isn't too heavy once you strip it down, you could get some help and lift it up and back if you have the box off, otherwise you have to either lift enough to clear the motor, or come across the side. I don't know what you have for equipment, but loader tractors or such work well... Otherwise, chain hoist, sawhorses or what have you to hold it up while moving the frame, or whatever.I wouldn't feel comfortable using a cherry picker...

As for wiring, it should be the same. If you are getting the clip too, then it makes it even easier. Then the only wires you have to be concerned with run to the frame and back.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:47 AM
  #26  
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I do have a chain hoist that i can put in a tree but wasnt sure how heavy the cab is. dont really care how i get the old cab off but i dont want to damage the new cab. where should i attach chains if i do it that way? all thats holding the cab on is the 4 body mounts right? and of course the fenders.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #27  
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Rather than attaching chains to the cab itself, get a couple 8' 4x4's and pad them with carpet or carpet pad, or even an old blanket. Run those thru the cab at the top of the door openings. You can use a short 2x4 to keep them spread apart. Tie the chains around the ends of the 4x4's.
This will prevent the chains from damaging the replacement cab.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:59 AM
  #28  
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ok but will that bend the roof?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 10:04 AM
  #29  
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No. The cab isn't really heavy, more bulky than anything. They can be lifted using a single strap, but that really needs to be done in a manner that keeps the strap from trying to squeeze the sides together.
2 4x4's are overkill, as far as the weight is concerned. 2 average men can lift a bare cab, but it's a handfull. Much like the truck bed.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #30  
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Ok ill do it that way. i dont have too much help. friends are always busy when i need help. Thanks for the info.
 
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