Questions about primer
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Elder User
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Questions about primer
I'm looking to repaint my truck soon. I'm not going after anything fancy, i just want a half decent paint job.
I've got a 1963 F-100 with the original paint on it. I know I need to sand it and do some minor body work and get rid of rust and that sort of thing. My question is; How do I use primer? I've read some things that say to primer the entire truck. Others say only use primer if you sand it down to the bare metal.
I don't think I'm going to sand it down to the bare metal if I don't have to. Assuming that I don't, do I/should I use primer?
Any advise it appreciated
I've got a 1963 F-100 with the original paint on it. I know I need to sand it and do some minor body work and get rid of rust and that sort of thing. My question is; How do I use primer? I've read some things that say to primer the entire truck. Others say only use primer if you sand it down to the bare metal.
I don't think I'm going to sand it down to the bare metal if I don't have to. Assuming that I don't, do I/should I use primer?
Any advise it appreciated
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: Rogue River, Oregon
Always use primer, no question about it. Another thing, even thinking that "you only want a half-decent job" is the absolute wrong way to go. A nice quality paint job is not expensive, it's easier to take care of and will last MUCH longer than a one-day, scuff and shoot, I-don't-care-what-it-looks-like type of paint job. Either do the best you can or leave it alone. Now that the lecture is over, here's what I would do: do whatever bodywork needs to be done. Fix the rust and dents and sand those parts to bare metal. Don't put bondo over old paint and use a sanding block to sand those areas level. ONce you've gotten the major stuff done, use a good-quality epoxy primer and shoot two coats over all the areas you did the bodywork on only, letting it flash (dry enough to be dull) between coats. Once that has flashed, put three more coats over the entire truck. Let that dry for a day or two (longer in cold weather) then get a sanding pad or block and go over the whole truck. Never sand with just your bare hand, it'll leave finger grooves. For a real nice job, lightly mist black lacquer primer over everything before you sand, then sand it off. Anywhere the black primer remains is a low spot and needs to be fixed. But unless you are willing to put in the time and effort, forget that step and just sand the epoxy flat. I use 400 grit wet on a final sand like this, don't go any finer or the paint might not stick, any coarser and you'll get sanding scratches. Now re-mask the whole truck to get rid of the sanding debris. Once you're done, then I shoot sealer, let it dry for and hour and proceed with base, three coats of that then three coats of clear. If you decide to take a shortcut on the primer, I promise you will only save less than $100 and maybe one day of labor. I also promise you will not even get a "half-decent" job out of it. Take the time to make the effort to do it right and you'll have something to be proud of that will last for years. Hope this helps, Jim
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: British Columbia, Canada
One thing I would like to say is, Pick up a good quality dust / paint mask. NOT one made in china! Working with lead-base paint can be dangerous. Plus, you won't have snot the same color as the truck.. Good luck with your project..
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Elder User
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That a ton for the tips guys. This is my first project. They truck body is far from perfect and will not be a show truck, but it still want it to look good. I'll take your advise and do it right. I'll spend this weekend sanding, bondoing, and tapeing. Then next week I'll get some epoxy primer and spray it on, then the weekend after that I'll paint it. It's not a daily driver, so I can spend three weeks painting it.
This is exactly the information that I was looking for. I really appreciate it. If I hadn't read this I would have just primered over the original paint only done one coat.
EDIT- What the difference between epoxy primer and the regular primer? Do I need to sand the entire truck down to bare metal or just the parts where I put bondo?
This is paint/primer combo I want to use. Primer- http://www.paintforcars.com/acr_lac_prim_surf.html Paint- http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_arcticwhite.html I figured this primer worked will because it is Acylic-specific.
This is exactly the information that I was looking for. I really appreciate it. If I hadn't read this I would have just primered over the original paint only done one coat.
EDIT- What the difference between epoxy primer and the regular primer? Do I need to sand the entire truck down to bare metal or just the parts where I put bondo?
This is paint/primer combo I want to use. Primer- http://www.paintforcars.com/acr_lac_prim_surf.html Paint- http://www.paintforcars.com/kits_arcticwhite.html I figured this primer worked will because it is Acylic-specific.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Always use primer, no question about it. Another thing, even thinking that "you only want a half-decent job" is the absolute wrong way to go. A nice quality paint job is not expensive, it's easier to take care of and will last MUCH longer than a one-day, scuff and shoot, I-don't-care-what-it-looks-like type of paint job. Either do the best you can or leave it alone. Now that the lecture is over, here's what I would do: do whatever bodywork needs to be done. Fix the rust and dents and sand those parts to bare metal. Don't put bondo over old paint and use a sanding block to sand those areas level. ONce you've gotten the major stuff done, use a good-quality epoxy primer and shoot two coats over all the areas you did the bodywork on only, letting it flash (dry enough to be dull) between coats. Once that has flashed, put three more coats[_________________] over the entire truck. Let that dry for a day or two (longer in cold weather) then get a sanding pad or block and go over the whole truck. Never sand with just your bare hand, it'll leave finger grooves. For a real nice job, lightly mist black lacquer primer over everything before you sand, then sand it off. Anywhere the black primer remains is a low spot and needs to be fixed. But unless you are willing to put in the time and effort, forget that step and just sand the epoxy flat. I use 400 grit wet on a final sand like this, don't go any finer or the paint might not stick, any coarser and you'll get sanding scratches. Now re-mask the whole truck to get rid of the sanding debris. Once you're done, then I shoot sealer, let it dry for and hour and proceed with base, three coats of that then three coats of clear. If you decide to take a shortcut on the primer, I promise you will only save less than $100 and maybe one day of labor. I also promise you will not even get a "half-decent" job out of it. Take the time to make the effort to do it right and you'll have something to be proud of that will last for years. Hope this helps, Jim
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
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Fix the areas that need repair , use what ever primer you wish till it is blocked to your satisfaction.. Sand the area around the primer with 320 after blocking . Final prime it , then sand with 400 wet , or dry ..
The rest of the finish only needs to be sanded or scotch brighted with no more than 400 grit ..
The more new junk you put in between the factory finish & the new finish , just gives you more to spend money on & more to have problems with later .. The most stable thing to paint over is a properly prepared factory finish ...
The rest of the finish only needs to be sanded or scotch brighted with no more than 400 grit ..
The more new junk you put in between the factory finish & the new finish , just gives you more to spend money on & more to have problems with later .. The most stable thing to paint over is a properly prepared factory finish ...
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Elder User
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So should I sand down to the metal and remove all the paint? I'm going to use the lacquer primer that I linked.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Rogue River, Oregon
As long as you're paint isn't flaking or peeling it will be fine. As for your decision to use lacquer primer, don't say I didn't warn you...
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Elder User
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Whats wrong with the lacquer primer? I'm a n00b when it comes to painting. Is this stuff a better choice? MAXX FILL 2K High Build Urethane Primer Surfacer w/ Activator - Light Grey (1 Gal): Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint
Im sure this is obvious, but in the event that it isn't, im trying to do this fairly cheaply. I just simply don't have the budget for top quality paint supplies.
Im sure this is obvious, but in the event that it isn't, im trying to do this fairly cheaply. I just simply don't have the budget for top quality paint supplies.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Catalyzed paint is what is used today for durability. Lacquer is not a catalyzed paint. When you put paint on bare metal you want protection that will stick like the devil and protect against moisture. So bare metal calls for 2K epoxy primer. Any of my cars that were down to bare metal where given 2 coats of PPG epoxy primer after the body work. Then I used an PPG primer surfacer to build the surface and fill in any sanding marks before block sanding. Epoxy is too thin to do that and isn't made to sand well. You listed a urethane primer, which can be used, but some prefer epoxy primer on bare metal. I will also use an epoxy primer, over good properly prepared OEM finishes, as a sealer when reducer is added. That gives me a uniform color base for my top color which is always single stage.
ProForm Direct to Metal Epoxy Primer 1 Gal. kit with activator: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint
Look at the site below where you can learn more than you could ever imagine from the pros and amateurs.
Autobodystore Forums
ProForm Direct to Metal Epoxy Primer 1 Gal. kit with activator: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint
Look at the site below where you can learn more than you could ever imagine from the pros and amateurs.
Autobodystore Forums
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Catalyzed paint is what is used today for durability. Lacquer is not a catalyzed paint. When you put paint on bare metal you want protection that will stick like the devil and protect against moisture. So bare metal calls for 2K epoxy primer. Any of my cars that were down to bare metal where given 2 coats of PPG epoxy primer after the body work. Then I used an PPG primer surfacer to build the surface and fill in any sanding marks before block sanding. Epoxy is too thin to do that and isn't made to sand well. You listed a urethane primer, which can be used, but some prefer epoxy primer on bare metal. I will also use an epoxy primer, over good properly prepared OEM finishes, as a sealer when reducer is added. That gives me a uniform color base for my top color which is always single stage.
ProForm Direct to Metal Epoxy Primer 1 Gal. kit with activator: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint
Look at the site below where you can learn more than you could ever imagine from the pros and amateurs.
Autobodystore Forums
ProForm Direct to Metal Epoxy Primer 1 Gal. kit with activator: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint
Look at the site below where you can learn more than you could ever imagine from the pros and amateurs.
Autobodystore Forums
40 years so far, all my work with a lifetime warrantee ,,,, without it ...
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Now, if you tell me that car has been outside for 20 years this whole time then you might have a point.