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TURNS OVER-NO START

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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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TURNS OVER-NO START

Stats: 04' SD 250, 6.0, 189,000 miles, egr delete, 4x4
Recent repairs: Cab lift to install Y pipe to turbo, egr delete, new starter
Problem: While driving on a rough dirt road the truck seemed like it was running out of fuel- happened 3 times in about 5 minutes. I would stop, put in park, turn key, truck would start right up. 2 hours later, returning home, the truck went dead. Would turn over but not start. Batteries are fully charged, engine would spin over fast but no start. After 3 hrs in the middle of no where I sprayed some ether in the air intake. Still spin over- no start. No try to start or nothing. I am at a loss. One friend said I have a broke camshaft just on information which has me sick. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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from what i understand you should never spray starting fluid in the intake on these new diesels, a friend of mine let his duramax run out of fuel and his father in law sprayed some in his intake and the truck over-reved when it started and threw a rod...
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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I wouldnt think that your problems are from a broken camshaft. It maybe hpo or ficm related maybe something rattled loose on the rough dirt road check the connections to the ficm box ontop of the driver side valve cover.

you could also try to unplug the icp and see if it starts
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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sence 03 I have seen exactly one broken crankshaft *caused by a case of dumba$$) and the only cam failers I have seen were from failed lifters.
IMO its not a cam or crank issue however ymmv.

check icp, fule pressure, and check for codes.
 
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 06:21 PM
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Just got home from work, I disconnected the air cooler to the intake and it just about sucked my hand in, checked the exhaust and it pushed my hand away. Guess the cam is ok. I am going to check the connections to the ficm and icp. Be back as soon as I have some answers. THANKS YOU GUYS
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 11:46 AM
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Question It's a early 04 with the icp behind the turbo

Originally Posted by BLADE35
I wouldnt think that your problems are from a broken camshaft. It maybe hpo or ficm related maybe something rattled loose on the rough dirt road check the connections to the ficm box ontop of the driver side valve cover.

you could also try to unplug the icp and see if it starts
Just got the ficm off, the middle connection just fell off. I am going to use the tech info and check the ficm for DC voltage after I charge the batteries to 100%.
 

Last edited by eagleinms; Mar 20, 2011 at 12:37 PM. Reason: changed procedure
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by eagleinms
Just got the ficm off, the middle connection just fell off. I am going to use the tech info and check the ficm for DC voltage after I charge the batteries to 100%.

that middle connection was probably it check all the pins in the connectors make shure none are bent and make shure they are plugged in fulley.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:32 PM
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TURNS OVER- NO START UPDATE!!!!!!11

I tested my ficm voltage, 27.2 VDC with the key turn on. Can someone tell me what my next steps are? 1) look for cracked solder, 2) send for repair, 3) buy new ficm?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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There's a ficm repair guide in the tech folder. Worth a shot before you pay $1100.00 for a new one.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eagleinms
Just got the ficm off, the middle connection just fell off. I am going to use the tech info and check the ficm for DC voltage after I charge the batteries to 100%.
My truck wouldn't start on cold starts sometimes. Wouldn't start the past couple of days. Instead of towing it back down to my mechanic (again), thought I would tinker with it. Figured it was a FICM from reading. Seems to be a common problem. I noticed that my FICM was only connected by the 2 nuts on front. Nothing in back and it was quite wobbly. My middle connection just fell off as well. I went ahead and took it out, touched up the solder joints as recommended by taking it all apart. The 4 resistors that didn't look like they were making a good connection. I didn't see any solder on them. Fixed that. Put it back together, installed it, zipped tied the back down and WALLA, she started right up today!!!! Took be about 30-40 minutes to take apart and resolder joints. I pretty good with electronics so it may take a bit longer if you are not.

Here is the link I used and it worked great. All credit to the writer and thanks! shows all pictures.

FICM :: Page 1 picture by DrQuad - Photobucket
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 05:31 PM
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My FICM had a blown up gizzmo, bought the guts at Ford dealer for $427.00
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Unrealo4
There's a ficm repair guide in the tech folder. Worth a shot before you pay $1100.00 for a new one.
Too many BETTER options than paying $1100 for a new one. Swamps $450, circuit board medics, ficmrepair.com.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:39 PM
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my buddy paid a grand for his at the dealer to I thought thats to easy of a fix as long as you know thats whats wrong with it to pay a grand

+1 with swamps and if you have really cold winters wear you live the 58 volt upgrade may be worth it
 
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