Quick question for those who have changed your fuel filters, specifically the frame mounted one. The first time I changed my filters I didnt have the shorty socket, I only had a deep socket. It was a pain. The socket was so long I had to use extensions and put the ratchet behind the crossmember. Unscrewing the cap fought me the whole way and I thought It was only cause of the weird angle I was at. Last week I was getting ready to change the filter again, after about 10k miles. I decided to buy the correct tool and get the stubby socket. It was much easier to get in there and have the ratchet in front of the crossmember.

However, here is my issue. The cap is very tight to unscrew and it fights me the whole way. Does anyone else have this issue? I insptected the threads on the plastic cap and they seem to be in perfect condition. I realize that the threads need to be a tighter, more precise fit because we dont want fuel to leak out but I was wondering if you all have the same hard time getting the cap off.

At first I was using just a standard craftsman 3/8 ratchet. I then got the 1/2 ratchet and put an adapter to fit the 3/8 socket. It was still hard to unscrew the cap. i'm thinking that maybe if I buy a longer flex head ratchet that the added leverage would help a bit.

Does anyone else have a hard time getting the frame mounted filter cap off? The one under the hood comes off very easily. Thanks in advance

 

My cap is also very tight to unscrew until I get it about 3/4 off than I just use my hand. I just use a flex head 12-14" 3/8 drive ratchet. I Don't have 4WD so it a lot better to get at.

 

Thanks for the response. I now get to buy another tool! Woo hoo

 

Mine is not hard at all to remove. The o-ring is what seals, not the threads. You can put some motor oil on the threads to make it easier.

 

Mine is very difficult to remove as well. First time I did it, I had some odd wrench setup that didn't allow me very much movement at all. I bet I spent an hour trying to get remove the cap. I was convinced it was cross threaded or something was wrong too, but the threads seem to be fine.

 

Mark, Now that you mentioned the oil on threads I tried putting some o-ring grease on mine the last time I changed filters and seemed go on much better have not removed it since than..Should have told bigred66...Thanks

 

I just got finished changing my filters about an hour ago and was the first time removing the new style filter with o-ring on the filter housing. What I noticed was the cap was slighty harder to remove and the filter did not come out with the cap since the o-ring was holding the filter into the housing. Maybe this is why it is more difficult to remove.

Also lubricating the o-ring is a good suggestion also.

I also noticed that my filter kit was missing the small o-ring so I had to re-use the old one.

 

I didn't put oil on the oring but I did rub some diesel on it. Maybe ill try oil next time

 

Diesel is a BAD lubricant. In fact, it will degrade rubber components. Oil is the best way to go.

 

Buna N (Nitrile) O-Rings is very chemical resistant. I use diesel as well to wet the O-Rings. Matter of fact I had to reuse the engine filter O-Ring and it was still very soft and pliable so I had no problem reusing it. These O-Rings are in constant contact with diesel (including the O Ring installed on the filter) and at high temperatures every day so I don't see an issue with using diesel to wet the MotorCraft oring.

 

Diesel can make them swell slightly which helps them seal. As Mark said the threads do not seal the O ring does. I use vaseline on the O ring and threads and everything works smoothly.

 

The fuel filter water drain plug is a better example of how diesel fuel deteriorates the rubber over time. Whether you have the OEM plug or the upgraded drain plug, the rubber swells and then it can tear as the plug is screwed in and tightened (I changed this o-ring twice before I started coating it w/ oil). Maybe the bulk of the deterioration happens over a period of time that extends beyond the filter change interval, but it does happen. I work in the chemical industry and it is a practice there as well - even though the tables say they are compatible.

It is sound advice to coat w/ motor oil IMO.

 

There's nothing wrong with using motor oil since the oring is compatible with it as well. Having said that, using motor oil or vasoline as CJ69 uses only protects the O-ring during insertion but does not preserve it. Lubricating an O-ring during insertion is just good practice. Think about the number of O-rings in the entire fuel system including the oil side. And many of these O-rings live in the engine and are exposed to both chemicals and heat, and if not damaged during installation can live a long life. This is the other reason I run 2 qts of High Mileage oil from time to time to refresh these orings and to keep them soft.

I still have the original O-ring on the OEM plug and I remove it to drain any water every ~ 5k miles. So far it has held up good and the plastisizers has held up as well.

You don't want to install a dry O-ring while being rotated and compressed so lubricating with oil is excellent practice.

 

Your points are well taken Troy. I wonder if more critical o-rings aren't of a more expensive composition?? I do know that my drain plug o-ring did not hold up, maybe it was due to the mechanical wear since diesel fuel does not lubricate as well as oil when the o ring is tightened against the housing. As far as the oil side that you mention ..... I do know that some of the o-rings there have been revised/upgraded at least once, so there is something that has been learned in that system through experience.