As far as buss panels are concerned do not forget that you can build your own. I used a 8 inch long piece of thin sheet steel 1 1/2 inches wide. I drilled 4 holes in it and mounted a 120 amp fuse across the first two holes, set off by rubber stoppers from harbor freight. Power goes from my 3G alternator to terminal 1, across the fuse and then provides hot output to the battery and the other terminals. Each rubber stopper looks like a motor mount but miniature in size. Then from post 2 to 3 and 3 to 4 I built a wire loom with 12g wire and ring connectors, soldered, so the entire assembly is in the 12 to 13.5V range depending on your alternator's output when the engine is running. Finally I mounted a plastic box that covered the terminal buss to prevent it's accidental shorting out by tools should you be klutsy while working in the engine compartment. This type of setup is common on aircraft and is where I gleaned the technique. You can run your alternator gauge off of these terminals and it is a cheap alternative to expensive fuse blocks and similar terminals, too.

 

Wouldn't happen to have any pictures would you? I may have been thinking of something similar for my Ranger, just cannot quite picture it.

Josh

 

do you have any parts info on the relays and wiring, I p/u a fan assembly from a 4.6l ford, looks like the same fan, robbed as much of wiring from the car I could, has no relays but a 10amp fuse the was on the radiator core support
I did review your thread, just need a clearer idea on wiring and relays
thanks!!

 

3 wires on is ground the other 2 are positive one low speed one high...

 

Well like rmodel65 said one wire is ground an the other two is one is high an one is low . i used two relays one for high an one for low. the relays came with there wiring diagram that I followed . I will get the diagram tomorrow jeff14346

 

thanks for the feed back, also been looking at the SPAL fan controller, down side it is pricey apprx $160, does come with controller, relay, wiring and temp sensor for intake manifold or t-stat housing

Thanks again

 

I used two relays an on off on toggle switch and wired the toggle switch to a ignition on so the fan stays on low when the truck is running . I kept it simple stupid . The automatic controllers were out of my price range so I stuck with the toggle switch.

 

Here is a diagram I did for automatic low speed and manual high speed.



Josh

 

Just to add another wiring idea, this is how I have mine. Low comes on with a $17.99 temp controller from Autozone, and high is manually turned on when the A/C is on. If I ever needed the high setting without the kicking the compressor on I could just disconnect the wires at the compressor to keep it from coming on. But I, like most people who have done this upgrade, have never needed to use the high setting for keeping the truck cool.

[/QUOTE]

 

got a link to your 17$ auto zone temp controller?

 

Here you go. If the link below doesn't work the part number is 733653.

Compressor Works/Electric Fan Thermostat (733653) | 1977 Ford F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders G 5.0L 2BL OHV | AutoZone.com

 

Excelent wire diagrams on this link.
Mark VIII & SPAL V3

read post 28 and post 33 on page 2. one diagram shows how to have RGB Light LED
indicator when fans are on for high low and AC

 

I was in a hurry today at a pull a part yard and remembered the fan and I thought it was a contour fan I needed. I grabbed a single motor fan from a contour and the sad thing is there were probably 5 or so t-birds out there.

 

the taurus fan on 3.8 liter cars iirc is the same as the mark 8 but it has a different pitch on the fan blades

 

The fans are nowhere near the same. The Lincoln Mark VIII and Thunderbirds are the only cars that share the same particular fan.

The Taurus fan is smaller.

Josh