Napa has "premium" rotors for $69, & "ultra premium" for $109.
I read an old thread last eve that said buy regular rotors and best pads avail.

The ultra's state; ready to go out of box. Do standard rotors need to be turned before being installed?

I currently have 102,000 miles, front rotors have been replaced twice, rear is still OEM.

 

Years ago I worked on a lot of cars and trucks, napa parts that they carry brand names like moog, bendix, and Wagner are quality parts, any part that was a napa part and said napa on the box never lasted long and was an inferior product. I would never buy a napa part again especially brake parts.

 

I am in the auto service industry. I buy from everyone...Napa, Car Quest, Federated. I only put, ONLY, use genuine Ford parts from the dealer. Especially with all the issues that the Super Duties have with brakes.

Spend a couplke $$ extra, get factory stuff.

 

NAPA Ultra Premium in this case = Raybestos Advanced Technology. RockAuto was significantly less than NAPA.

 

Who out there has had the dreaded rotor warping issues and replaced with factory rotors and resolved the problem? This doesn't mean put the new one's on and immediately have success. All new rotors resolve the problem. Warping begins to occur after some miles and time.

I am asking as I wonder if Ford realized the brakes on the X are not big enough to handle the weight and constantly warp, so found a better quality replacement to help resolve it?

To date, my only success story was with the Art Rotors (Cryogenic frozen) and they lasted 60K before beginning to break down. I tried another brand and they are on now and are horrible. Will go back to Art soon! Trying to come up with the funds for them.

Also, don't recommend using the ceramic pads as they do not provide the best in stopping and get too hot, then cause warping over time. I think if I did not change my pads after 20K on the Art's the first time, I would have gotten more miles as the rotors were purple after overheating. I was told that they got too hot from the ceramic pads and have done some research to confirm this is possible.

So, next set of rotors will include Hawk Superduty pads which everyone seems to be very happy with. I put them on my current rotors and they do stop much better! Just need to get new rotors and start over with new set of pads/rotors.

 

I have 60k on O'riellys lifetime warranty rotors and EBC 'greenstuff' (medium aggressive, less dust) pads. Good pads are most of the battle against warpage - good driving habits being the rest. The first pads/rotors on the Excursion were cheap store-brand crap and trashed rotors in 20k. (ex)wife was driving this thing 100mi/day 'over the mountain' to school...

I have same rotors and EBC 'yellowstuff' (most aggressive/towing pads, more dust) on my F350 that tows (GCVW over 20k) most of the time and currently over 80k on rotors - 2nd set of pads. My first set of O'rielly rotors went 80k and got a little shimmy - so I swapped'em out at next tire rotation, no questions asked. That failure (harsh word) was likely due to trailer brake issues - slightly overheated brakes.

Don't waste your $$ on 'expensive' rotors, but DO spend the $$ on the best pads you can get. Ceramic pads I've used lasted a looooong time, but don't stop as well. Pads are SUPPOSED to wear out, and yes, they do make DUST - get over it!!

How/why they would warranty a 'wear item' like rotors is beyond me - I guess they expect most people don't keep their junk long enough to use warranty?

the last post here is a great read about 'fancy' rotors:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-rotors-3.html

 

What many of you may not realize is that each chain has their own private label brand for brakes, but has many different suppliers. Let's use autozone as an example. The Autozone brand for brake parts is Brakeware however, they may have 15 different manufacturers supplying parts, each for a different category. Dorman may provide the brake hoses, Bendix might provide the pads, etc. etc., but every box is labeled and sold as Brakeware. It's not always easy to know who is actually supplying the part to the chain. I work for an aftermarket parts manufacturer that specializes in OE replacement parts. Our parts are tooled, engineered and tested against the part sold by the dealer. Also, in many cases, we purchase our parts from the same exact manufacturer in China, Taiwan, Mexico that supplies the OE with their "genuine" Ford, GM, etc parts.

 

I have the Napa Ultra Premiums on the front and Premiums on the rear with Hawk LTS pads all the way around. I've used both versions on many vehicles coming through my shop and have never had an issue with one. I've got about 15k miles on the setup now and have had absolutely no issues and that includes towing the boat. Both the Ultra and the Premiums are ready to use out of the box with no turning required. Clean the protective coating off with brake clean and then soap and water and you are ready to install. Make sure to clean and lube all of your slides and replace any which have any corrosion. When you finish the entire job make sure you bed the pads in properly.

Bedding procedure: Bed-In Instructions

 

I got 110,000 miles out of my original Ford rotors, not because they're so great but because I always - without exception - use a torque wrench to tighten my lug nuts whenever a wheel is removed and reinstalled. It's best to use a long handle torque wrench to get the necessary 165 ft lbs of torque each lug requires. Tighten each wheel lug in a "star" rotation and gradually bring each lug up to full torque. Presto - no more warped rotors!

 

My '05 4WD V10 EB had what felt like warped rotors. It's actually a build-up of pad material on the rotors. A few years ago, I installed the CHEAPEST plain front rotors offered by Napa, and splurged on Hawk pads at all four corners, and not only have I not felt another "warping" sensation, my braking performance improved (and is still performing very well).

 

Putting napa parts on tuesday.I'll see how it goes.

 

I'm heading on trip Friday am. Was getting a little pulsation, so I decidied to have local shop pull and turn my front rotors since I really did'nt have time. They are power slots w/ hawk pads. So I pick it up, they said still pulsating so must have been rears. I drove it home and was worse than before. So I thought I'd have to throw new on rears quickly.

But how could be worse than before shop started? So I decided to take back to them to look at again. Turns out slots are only designed to rotate one direction. They had swapped side. So they reversed and very smooth now.

When I get home may soon re-do all the way around, looks like a few opinions on what to use!

 

I agree with Walt501, I use OEM never a problem. Just will not allow an idiot with basically a Jackhammer near my lugs.

 

I don't quite get it. I torque religiously to 165 and always get warped rotors over time. It happens after a panic stop when someone locks up in heavy traffic on occasion.

So I just wonder if you all are on something here where if we get non slotted or drilled rotors from parts stores, assuming better quality and not cheapest, then get the better pads, it rotors will last.

I sure hate to spend another $800 on a set of frozen rotors and pads when I can get rotors for half that.

The one's I have now are drilled and slotted and had a lifetime warranty not to warp,but they warped very quickly, like less than 10K miles. Not worth the fight with warranty out of company in California.

So, maybe I will check into the O'Reilly rotors for the warranty and deal with them locally if I have issues.

Also, even though the parts come from the same plant in Mexico or wherever, many times each manufacturer has different specifications for each company they provide the parts for.

Agree on the dust thing....clean the truck every week, so not worried with that, but the claim on the less dust was a nice querk, but if you check around, you will find that the ceramic pads get way too hot and cause warping or damage to the metal properties. Again, mine turned purple and had heat stress cracks from the ceramic pads.

However, we would not know when/if true for all or any part unless it was claimed by the manuf. So it is all a big guessing gamble!

 

I just received my new rotors in the mail this week. Replacing tomorrow because I had a failed wheel bearing that caused the caliper to cut a grove into the rotors and ruined the front, passenger side one. I purchased some Powerstop slotted rotors (what I currently have on) again because I have about 60K on them and no problems what so ever. I even had a lot of pad left and they stopped great. I pull a 31' Jayco Eagle camper and a lot of cars on a dual axle trailer. I found a pair of slotted rotors for $199 plus shipping and no tax. About the same price as the NAPA rotors and IMO are better. Just another thought.