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Power for additional lock actuators

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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:26 PM
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Power for additional power lock actuators

I’ve been looking for wiring diagrams for the door locks for awhile now, never found anything useful.
Several sites on the net had colors and locations listed, but none matched.

So a little searching and I found the trigger wires for the door locks.
Old style lock actuators were solenoids, plungers and coils and they used a bit of current to operate, hence they usually had decent size wires you could tap into for additional locks.

Newer style are servo or “screw” type (not sure of the correct name for them).
These actuators use a lot less power then the old style.
On the new SD’s these are controlled by the BCM and use very small wires, 18 or 20 gauge. They are also a “pulse” type meaning the module sends an approximately 1 second pulse to the lock motor. This is not enough current or duration to operate solenoids.

My new toolbox is equipped with two lock solenoids and I will be adding the tailgate power lock.

I found the trigger wires behind the passenger kick panel in the large connector plugged into the fuse box.
This picture shows the fuse box and connector cover removed to access the wires.

On a side note: after I finally did this project someone on one of the other boards was kind enough to actually post the wiring diagram

The wires that trigger the locks are violet/white and gray/tan.
These colors may also be violet/gray gray/brown depending on how good your eyes are J
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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I used four standard automotive style relays. These just happened to be in my toolbox.
These are 4 connector relays. The same type with 5 wires could be used and then only two relays would be needed.

Basically what the relays do is when triggered with an open or close signal, two relays close and supply power to the locks.
When the opposite signal is received the other two relays close and reverse the current to the locks

The relays are wire tied to a cable running along the body up high in the dash
(3rd picture)
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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My crude wiring diagram
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:30 PM
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The relays need a B+ supply and ground
I ran a 10 gauge wire out to the right side battery for this.
I used 10 gauge as I will be using the feed for several other projects, including a 50 watt 2 meter radio and bed lights.
The 10 gauge just runs down the fender liner and is punched up through this plug under the rug.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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The lock circuit runs underneath the sill plates to a hole I drilled in the floor pan.
Something I noticed while driving around without the sill plates and kick panels. These plastic trim pieces do quite a bit of noise reduction.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by porthole
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These are 4 connector relays. The same type with 5 wires could be used and then only two relays would be needed.

Basically what the relays do is when triggered with an open or close signal, two relays close and supply power to the locks.
When the opposite signal is received the other two relays close and reverse the current to the locks




The relays are wire tied to a cable running along the body up high in the dash
(3rd picture)
how would you wire the 2 5 wire relays ? they are the single pole double thro 5 wire, correct ? SPDT.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:46 AM
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I don't have any 5 pin relays (#778) to play with and I don't remember the pin I/O's.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:53 AM
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85 & 86 are the relay control pins
30 is the power(or ground) in (to the thing) side

87 is the switched power(or ground) OUT (to the thing), not connected to 30 at rest, connected to 30 when 85/86 triggered
87a is the UNswitched power(or ground) OUT (to the thing) connected to 30 at rest, not connected when 85/86 triggered

4 pin relays do not have pin 87a

sam
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:24 AM
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Great post, Duane!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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Nice pics and writeup - for those who want to do something similar don't forget the importance of the in-line fuse on the 10 gauge V+ if you don't run to the fuse box.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:53 AM
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Question: what are we trying to accomplish here??? A second set of locks for added theft prevention?? I know the Fords are easy to break in to.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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they're for the toolbox and tailgate
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Shepardsonp
Question: what are we trying to accomplish here??? A second set of locks for added theft prevention?? I know the Fords are easy to break in to.
we're adding a power door lock to the tailgate and or a tool box. to be controlled by the key fob !!!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rdenis
Nice pics and writeup - for those who want to do something similar don't forget the importance of the in-line fuse on the 10 gauge V+ if you don't run to the fuse box.
Guess I should have pointed that out.
If you look at the battery picture there is a water tight fuse holder about 3" from the positive terminal.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cjay84
we're adding a power door lock to the tailgate and or a tool box. to be controlled by the key fob !!!


The toolbox is a Truck covers USA toolbox-roll top combo. for $35 extra the factroy puts in a power lock soleniod on both sides.

American X-Box
 
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