6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

Power for additional lock actuators

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  #31  
Old 03-21-2011, 05:04 PM
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Later tonight I'll post a picture of the toolbox solenoids maybe that will help in getting yours to work. Lock solenoids are pretty cheap on the net, 2-5 dollars.


Here is the lock actuator
 
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  #32  
Old 03-19-2012, 09:21 PM
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wow i need that x box plus cover anyone want to buy it 4 me lol
 
  #33  
Old 03-20-2012, 07:46 AM
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Power for additional lock actuators Pop N Lock PL8250

Added this for search purposes:
Pop N Lock PL8250





 
  #34  
Old 03-21-2012, 08:16 AM
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just wondering, i'm trying to have the tailgate open on the second click on the remote with the passenger door. What color wire do i connect to on my 2012 ford F350?
 
  #35  
Old 03-21-2012, 11:01 PM
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under the front pax sill plate, the 2 wires to look for are
(1) VIOLET+GRAY STRIPE
(2)GRAY+TAN STRIP.
 
  #36  
Old 05-28-2012, 07:43 AM
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Weird.... I tried the Gray/TAN(S) and it failed. Then tried the Green/BLUE(S) as recommended in the instructions and it worked fine.

How can the wires be different colors in each truck? Makes NO sense to me.
 
  #37  
Old 05-28-2012, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by abendx
Weird.... I tried the Gray/TAN(S) and it failed. Then tried the Green/BLUE(S) as recommended in the instructions and it worked fine.

How can the wires be different colors in each truck? Makes NO sense to me.
weird indeed.. I just did the lock on my 2012.. and the published wire colors were wrong.. and the right ones posted in this topic..

Sam
 
  #38  
Old 08-20-2012, 02:40 PM
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Duane, you say that the BCM:

sends an approximately 1 second pulse to the lock motor
By this I assume you mean that 1 second pulse is a 12+V pulse. According to your crude wiring diagram with your 4 relay's, this looks to be true. However, looking at post #19, + is connected to pin 86 of the relay, which would mean the lock/unlock triggers would have to go to ground for it to work.

I plan to do this mod so that I can lock/unlock all the doors on my service body with the key fob, and just wanted to clarify this one point before I get started. Thanks for all the info you posted.
Rick
 
  #39  
Old 08-20-2012, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by fastwheeler
Duane, you say that the BCM:


By this I assume you mean that 1 second pulse is a 12+V pulse. According to your crude wiring diagram with your 4 relay's, this looks to be true. However, looking at post #19, + is connected to pin 86 of the relay, which would mean the lock/unlock triggers would have to go to ground for it to work.
12v+ for either lock or unlock. Either "12 volt positive" trigger will activate the correct pair of relays.

I'm not sure about post 19, at first glance, it doesn't look like it will work.
 
  #40  
Old 08-21-2012, 01:48 PM
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KR, great illustration. This looks very poor in comparison.

Here is a drawing I did a while back for a 4 pin SSR but it gets the job done.

 
  #41  
Old 08-22-2012, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 4stroke
KR, great illustration. This looks very poor in comparison.

Here is a drawing I did a while back for a 4 pin SSR but it gets the job done.

That will not work.
That drawing is only supplying 12volts + to a single terminal.
The solenoids need + & - and they need to be able to reverse those circuits.
 
  #42  
Old 08-22-2012, 03:47 PM
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I just have the trigger and the 12 volt source reversed.

86 should be the 12 volt source and 87 should be the trigger.

This is if they were to use 4 solenoids.
 
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