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The amount of vacuum advance your engine receives is determined by which vacuum advance mechanism you have and how much vacuum there is to actuate it.
If the Vacuum advance itself is seized,you won't have any.
I have to question whether you mean *vacuum advance* or *Initial Static Timing* for that engine?
The static timing for that engine is 9*BTD
Vacuum advance hose dis-connected and plugged
600 Rpm in Drive.
It is a non-computer point type ignition.The engine is carrying 17 inches of vacuum at a high RPM. Un-plugged the vacuum line from the distributor and plugged in a vacuum gauge and it still sucks 17 inches of vacuum at a high RPM. The distributor timing is set at 10 degrees which the book calls for, for this particular application, "72" 429. I had to put an aftermarket vacuum advance on the distributor. It is a 2 port vacuum control. I know that there are counter-weights and springs that advance the timing at a high RPM and the vacuum control makes up the difference. The instruction that came with the vacuum control states to use an allen wrench on the old vacuum control and turn it in until it stops and count the turns. My old vacuum control has no hex head in it. So I have no idea what kind of advance timing at high RPM I should be getting out of the distributor. Right now I have the distributor set at 10 degrees before TDC and at a high RPM I have an extra 10 degrees on the vacuum control. I don't know if that is right or what.
Don't mess around with trying to set vacuum specs. on a running engine, best way to set it is on a dizzy machine.
On a running engine, just drive it around and see if it pings at part throttle while going up a grade. No ping, increase the advance until it does than back it off a little. Carry the allen wrench in the glove box in case you need to fine tune it a little more, that's the best way IMO.
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