I was on I76 yesterday and my little 4 cyl 5 speed 1998 Ranger died on me. Died like I turned the key off. As I coasted to a stop, I tried numerous times to pop the clutch and get her started to no avail. Haven't been able to get it started again.

I had the truck towed to my garage. I have fuel pressure, but won't fire.

Any common problems with these little motors? I'm leaning towards a crank sensor being bad. Hoping to borrow a friends scan tool tomorrow to see if I can pull any codes.

 

Did you check timing belt to see if it broke?

 

You got it. Thanks! Any good write ups on replacing the timing belt?!

 

At the top of this thread's index is a Technical Information listing. Go through that and you will find a write-up on changing the timing belt.

Note that the 4 cyl. engine is a non interference one, so breaking a timing belt won't damage any engine internals. Than heavens.

 

Timing Belt, Sprockets & Front Cover (2.5L)
Removal & Installation
Timing belt
To Remove:

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the exhaust side spark plugs, outer timing belt cover, and crankshaft pulley.
Turn the crankshaft until the number one piston is at top dead center (TDC).
CAUTION
The camshaft belt tensioner tool (303-097) can be damaged when trying to relieve belt tension if you attempt to remove the belt without first loosening both the timing belt tensioner adjusting bolt and the spring pivot bolt.

Loosen the timing belt spring pivot bolt, but do not remove it at this point in the procedure.
Loosen the adjusting bolt slowly and release the spring tension.
Turn the tensioner with the camshaft belt tensioner tool (303-097), against the spring pressure, clockwise to the farthest position.
While holding it in this position, tighten the adjusting bolt to hold the tensioner away from the belt.
Remove the timing belt.
To Install:

Be certain that on piston number one, the crankshaft is at TDC with the crankshaft keyway pointing straight up and the circle on the crankshaft sprocket lined up with the notch on the engine front cover.
Line up the timing marks.
Install the timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket going counterclockwise over the oil pump sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket.
Loosen the bolt allowing the tensioner pulley to press against the timing belt.
NOTE: The timing belt tensioner should not be tightened or the belt tension will not be evenly distributed over the whole belt.

Turn the crankshaft two revolutions clockwise. Next, slowly bring the crank to the number one position firing position with the keyway on the crank facing up. The dot on the crankshaft gear is lined up with the notch on the front cover.
Check the timing mark alignment again. If necessary, repeat the procedure.
Tighten the bolts. Torque the pivot bolt to 30-40 ft-lb (40-55 Nm). Torque the adjustment/locking bolt to 26-33 ft-lb (35-45 Nm).
Install the crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolt. Torque to 93-121 ft-lb (125-165 Nm).
Install the outer timing belt cover and tighten the bolt. Torque to 70-106 in-lb (8-12 Nm).
Install the exhaust side spark plugs.
Sprockets
To Remove:

Remove the timing belt.
Install the camshaft sprocket holding/removing tool (303-098) onto the sprocket.
Remove the camshaft sprocket.
To Install:

Place the key and camshaft sprocket on the shaft.
Install the camshaft sprocket holding/removing tool (303-098) onto the camshaft sprocket and tighten the bolt. Torque to 52-70 ft-lb (70-95 Nm).
Remove the tool then install the timing belt.
Outer Cover
To Remove:

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the fan shroud.
Loosen the bolts on the water pump pulley, but do not remove them at this point in the procedure.
Remove the drive belt, the water pump pulley, and the fan and clutch assembly.
Recover the refrigerant from the A/C system.
Disconnect the A/C wiring connector.
Remove the A/C compressor from the mounting bracket then remove the A/C mounting bracket with the power steering pump still attached.
Remove the outer timing belt cover.
To Install:

Install the outer timing belt cover. Torque to 70-106 in-lb (8-12 Nm).
Install the A/C mounting bracket with the power steering pump still attached. Torque the M10 bolts and stud to 35 ft-lb (48 Nm) and torque the M8 bolt to 18 ft-lb (25 Nm).
Install the A/C compressor to the mounting bracket. Torque to 16-20 ft-lb (21-28 Nm).
Connect the A/C wiring connector.
Refill the refrigerant into the A/C system.
Install the fan and clutch assembly, the water pump pulley, and the drive belt.
Tighten the bolts on the water pump pulley. Torque to 13-17 ft-lb (17-23 Nm).
Install the fan shroud. Torque to 54-70 in-lb (6-8 Nm).
Connect the negative battery cable.
Start the engine. Check for leaks and repair as necessary.
Inner Cover
To Remove:

Loosen oil pump sprocket bolt.
Remove timing belt, timing belt tensioner, oil pump sprocket, and crankshaft pulley.
Remove inner timing belt cover.
To Install:

Install inner timing belt cover.
Install crankshaft pulley. Torque to 93-121 ft-lb (125-165 Nm).
Install the oil pump sprocket.
Install the timing belt tensioner. Torque the pivot bolt to 30-40 ft-lb (40-55 Nm). Torque the adjustment/locking bolt to 26-33 ft-lb (35-45 Nm).
Install the timing belt.
Tighten the oil pump sprocket bolt. Torque to 30-40 ft-lb (40-55 Nm).
Torque the camshaft bolt to 52-70 ft-lb (70-95 Nm).

 

Thank you Michigan66. I looked last night on my computer but the file didn't open. I checked again on the computer at my shop and had the same experience. Is this particular link working for anyone else? https://www.ford-trucks.com/lc/lc.ph...TimingBelt.doc

03 Maz B23, thank you as well. I haven't looked at the truck yet, but is the need for the special camshaft sprocket holding tool imperative? I've not worked on one of these motors before.

 

Here is another link with a couple pics on changing belt. Don't know if you need a specialized tool. Would assume a breaker bar would work but maybe some others can chime in. I tried the link in the stickies and it didn't work for me either.


2.3 & 2.5 Timing belt removal & installation.

 

Excellent. Thank you so much for your help and guidance thus far.

 

Here is a pic of tool referred to in info. Maybe autozone or advance have one for loan out?


Ford Motorcraft 303-097 Timing Belt Tensioner Wrench

 

I would be interested to know what mileage your timing belt just broke at on your 2.5

Thanks.

 

I'm about 2.5 hours in, and it's all apart. Going to try and figure out how to properly tension the belt and put it all back together. Lucky for me all the bolts were rust free. (which is rare here in the north east) At least 30 minutes were spent trying to find bolts to fit the crankshaft sprocket pulley. Again I was surprised how easy it pulled off.

The truck has 180,000 miles on it. I bought it about 8k ago, and have no idea if/when the belt was done last. Looks amazing, drives amazing (when the timing belt is in place!), feels amazing ('09 Ranger seat in there). Still blows ice cold air!!

Probably not going to finish it up today. I have to head out in about an hour. Hoping to get the belt on before I leave.

Just thought I'd throw a picture in for good measure.

 

Looks like you have made good progress. Were definitely lucky that things weren't rusted in place. Will be curious to see how you end up addressing the tension issue. Keep us posted.

 

I was literally closing up the shop, but I just had to fire it before calling it a night. It ran for a couple seconds then I heard something fall off the engine, so I shut it off. (it was only a flash light). It idled. I'm not really sure if it ran rough or not. If I was off a tooth, would it not run?

I had a hard time getting all three timing marks to line up exactly. They were all probably within 2 degrees. I would imagine that the oil pump marks don't matter as much as the crank/cam. (Am I wrong?) I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I fire it up for real. It's nice that you can test it while everything is still apart.

I just used a pry bar to put tension on the pulley, then locked it in place (in the fully loose position). I pried on the pulley itself, while pivoting on the tensioner spring bolt head. When the belt is in place, I released the locking bolt and it applied tension to the belt.

Not bad so far. Hardest part about the whole job is making sure you have a puller for the power steering pump! I worked a junk yard forever, where we only pulled them apart.. never had to put it back on! I'll figure that out tomorrow.

 

Would assume it would run albeit roughly if marks were off.

 

From the way it looked, I thought I was off by about 2 degrees. I was counting teeth on the cam and crank wheels. If I was off a tooth on the crank I'd be off by about 16 degrees and cam 8 degrees. So I figured I had it right. 16 degrees off would probably not idle at all.

Getting to my point, I had it correct the whole time. It started right up, idle perfect and revved smooth. Bolted everything back together. The Snap On pulley installing tool worked great. Nice to finally use that one out of the set!

I'd say it took me a combined 5 hours accounting for everything. Pretty straight forward. Thanks for all the help guys!