Made big strides in getting my new bronco on the road. Repaired a bunch of interior panels, swapped the broken plastic door handles for metal ones from an 85 F-150.

Decided to tackle the 4wd today. I've been reading up for days now, getting to understand a diagnostic procedure so that I could pinpoint why I couldn't engage 4wd. Tested the dash switch, test the module in the kick-panel, both good. Traced the wiring to the actuator motor on the transfer case, and cleaned the connector. All good, but still couldn't get the dash or switch to indicate that I was engaged.

So after all my research, I resorted to whacking the actuator motor with my big wooden screwdriver. I now have engagement!! I shifted through the ranges a few times, and now I can get 4wd hi and low, and 2wd without a problem. Switching got nice and smooth after a few times.

BUT....

Hubs are blown.

I want to replace the auto hubs with manual hubs, but I've run into a bit of confusion concerning this swap.

I'm looking at both the Warn Supreme 20990 hubs and Mile Marker Supreme 104 hubs. I have 5 bolt autos, and everything I've read on this forum, and other places, indicated that I don't need a "conversion kit", but both the manufacturer's sites say that I need a spindle nut conversion kit. This is NOT the full time 4wd transfer case conversion kits...those are something else entirely.

I thought that the conversion kits were only for 3 bolt auto hubs?

What am I missing?

Thanks for any insight you may have for me...

 

I would say: Go with what you already found on the forum, manufacturers can be confusing at times. But the actual users will always tell you exactly which parts they needed/used. Anyway, if you find out you do need that kit you can buy it later.

 

Agreed. 5-bolt autos take the manual swap without conversion. The forum is usually right.

 

Thanks, and I was thinking along those same lines at first, but I really don't want to start an installation and have to punt right in the middle of it because I don't have everything I need.

For instance...if I DO need the spindle nut conversion kit, then I need to also get a spindle nut socket, right?

I'm trying to plan ahead so that I can sit down and get the job done all at once.

 

Ok, I'll go with that.

Thanks!!

 

Oh...I forgot.

Any preference on one hub over the other? And why? I'd like to order them tonight if I can get enough info.

Price IS a consideration...

 

I personally prefer the Mile Marker premiums simply because theirs have no plastic parts exposed to the elements. Even the Warn Premiums still have a plastic ****. But that is the only reason I prefer them really.

 

Last question. In the write-ups I've read tonight, all the conversions refer to Warn hubs. I've decided to go with the Mile Marker Premiums.

According to the write-ups, after the auto hub is removed there is a c-clip and spacer/washer down inside. The Warn hubs require that this be removed before installing the new hub.

Does this hold true for the Mile Marker hubs?

Thanks!

 

If it ain't one thing, it's another...

So I'm thinking I'll slap a new set of pads on the front while I wait on my new hubs, and one of the lug studs broke off when I went to remove the tire.

Crap. I already had one buggered stud, so I guess it's time to remove the hub and get new studs.

Get down to the spindle nuts, and remove the outer nut. Remove the lock ring, and noticed that the pin in the inner nut is sheared off. The little piece of pin buggered the thread on the spindle between the two nuts, so I had a heck of a time getting the inner nut out.

Ordered a new spindle nut kit today. Guess I might as well pull the spindle and do bearings and seals complete.

This was supposed to be a quickie pad replacement...

 

Better to have all these issues at your driveway than at the road. A cousin of mine had a very expensive trip when several of his lug studs broke on a trip we took, also potentially fatal, there was only one stud left when we noticed the problem, and only because we stopped to fill up at a gas station. Quite a close call...

 

Man, I'm glad I had to tear into the hubs. Both sides were hosed. Like I said above, someone used two inner spindle nuts for the right side, shearing off the pin, and when I got into the left side, I was able to spin off the outer nut with just my fingers. It had backed off all the way to the c-clip. Lock ring was just bouncing around between the two nuts.

Bearings were still in good shape, so I installed new seals, packed the bearings well, and used the PROPER method of installing the spindle nuts.Also installed good brake pads. Rotors were cherry, looks like they were turned/installed new lately. Pads were worn down almost to the backing though.

And to top it all off, I'm now sporting a nice shiny new set of Mile Marker Premium manual lock out hubs.

Now on to the leaks that need to be addressed. When I was working on the hubs yesterday, it started raining so I slid the cardboard that I was sitting on under the truck, and when I came out this morning, there was a big puddle of ATF right in the middle of it. Looks to be a fairly good leak. Not sure if it came from the t-case or the trans. Have to look at that this weekend.