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Use some brake cleaner on belt while engine is running, I had a squeak and I thought it was my idler. Changed out idler and still had squeak and belt was new. Turned out to be belt had something like oil on it.
Well it's not the bearing. That looks and feels fine. No stains on the hood insulation, but there's an awful lot of gunk / sludge that was packed around the center shaft that I'm guessing means the front seal is bad. Taking the belt off and spinning the ac pulley sounded and felt bad.
I see it's possible to buy a new AC compressor, and I've seen the cans of refrigerant at the parts stores, even though I thought they quit selling that years ago (I'm guessing we're in a different generation of refrigerant now)
Can I simply swap these parts myself (assuming there has been a leak in the existing AC and there is no refrigerant to recover) and then buy the cans of freon and charge it up myself, or does a vacuum need to be pulled prior to charging? If I need it charged by a pro, can I drive it empty to him, or will running the compressor "empty" cause damage?
Well it's not the bearing. That looks and feels fine. Are you referring to the front bearing of the compressor?No stains on the hood insulation, but there's an awful lot of gunk / sludge that was packed around the center shaft that I'm guessing means the front seal is bad. Taking the belt off and spinning the ac pulley sounded and felt bad. That part is serviceable with a new bearing or clutch assembly.
That gunk around the center shaft, was that behind the clutch, or in the center where the bolt was holding the front clutch together? Either way, you're going to get that gunk from the clutch material any time there is oil there. If you pulley bearing is going, you may have slung some grease out of it, causing you clutch material to collect at the center.
All else fails you could do the A/C work, but need a way to evacuate the system, then the ability to draw a vacuum to remove moisture. Also, these compressors are lubricated with oil that circulates with the refrigerant, so don't run your compressor without refrigerant (new or otherwise)
Also, these compressors are lubricated with oil that circulates with the refrigerant, so don't run your compressor without refrigerant (new or otherwise)
That's what I was afraid of.
The clutch on my ac went bad last year so I know what the normal gunk looks like. Her bearing in the pulley, that comes with the new clutch kit, is fine.
Anyone know if the parts store loan a tool program includes a vacuum to draw down the system? Would it take any adapters to use a vacuum pump that a house AC guy uses to make it work on the truck?
I believe Barry can come up with an AC vacuum pump and the correct gauges if the vacuum pump can be adapted to fit. It looks like I'll be taking off the compressor mounting bracket and dropping it off at the powder coater, so I've got several days to figure out how get this done.
If you have no refrigerant, the clutch can't engage at all.
The pulley will spin as normal, but the clutch won't pull in and the compressor won't turn. Just to be on the safe side, though, leave the A/C system in the OFF position.
However, something you said really bothers me:
"Taking the belt off and spinning the ac pulley sounded and felt bad."
That's the bearing we've been discussing!
Take off one of the A/C schrader valve caps, don some safety goggles, then quickly hit the pin in the center of the valve to see if the system's still charged.
If it is, it's not the front seal in the compressor, and it might save you some time, effort, and money to pull that pulley off as we discussed last night to inspect that bearing once-again.
Easy to adapt the home A/C vacuum pump (really no difference). Some pumps have fittings for the typical R-22 and R-134a units. Slight moral dilemma is what to do with the refrigerant that is in the system currently. Anyway, make sure to replace your dryer while your in there, and personally, I always ensure to use just straight 134a. Almost all this stuff these days has dye and fix a leak and a coolant fairy and and and... The only stuff that cools, is refrigerant. (off soap box)
Glad you found it now and not the middle of July, while vacationing.
If you have no refrigerant, the clutch can't engage at all.
The pulley will spin as normal, but the clutch won't pull in and the compressor won't turn. Just to be on the safe side, though, leave the A/C system in the OFF position.
However, something you said really bothers me:
"Taking the belt off and spinning the ac pulley sounded and felt bad."
That's the bearing we've been discussing!
Pop
So it will be safe for a short drive in OFF then? Thanks for that.
And the pulley is off, the bearing is out, and my pulley (and bearing) didn't fix her noise. I understand what you're saying about the bearing being suspect, but I noticed the center shaft on her compressor spun while I was removing the pulley and mine didn't.
Originally Posted by CPUNeck
Easy to adapt the home A/C vacuum pump (really no difference). Some pumps have fittings for the typical R-22 and R-134a units. Slight moral dilemma is what to do with the refrigerant that is in the system currently. Anyway, make sure to replace your dryer while your in there, and personally, I always ensure to use just straight 134a. Almost all this stuff these days has dye and fix a leak and a coolant fairy and and and... The only stuff that cools, is refrigerant. (off soap box)
We have the 134 in our trucks, right? So it would be the standard 134 fittings? Is it the same 134 as in a home AC? I happen to have a big bottle of that from some AC work I had done at the house.
Without me having to get up and go look, is the dryer a bolt on? I know the house units are soldered on. Anything else that needs to be changed while I'm in there? I remember reading something about an orifice tube or something that might get clogged up? Is that internal to the compressor or something additional I should buy? This is mama's rig and we have to keep her happy. I don't want to hear about how her AC died this summer because I screwed something up.
Most older home A/C's use R-22. It uses the same fittings as the old R-12. Only recently have the home A/C's drifted away from R-22, but to R-401a and Puron.
R-134a is what automotive A/C now uses, and the fittings are different. There ARE adapters if you HAVE to use them, but a dedicated set of gauges for R-134a imight be better.
Thanks again Pop. R401 is what I have. I'll have to see what items are available. I'm pretty sure I know where a set of 134 gauges are so that just leaves fittings for the vacuum pump, which should be ok.
And sorry, but no. No pics yet. It started with just removing one bolt and pulling the front of the AC clutch. Then I decided to spray the center portion around the bearing with some fluid film to see if it helped with a bearing noise. Then the next night it was just a quick pull of the pulley to determine what I have so far. I'll try and remember to stop and take pics if I see something interesting when I tear it down further.
I don't plan on removing the compressor or installing the new one until the mount comes back from the powder coater.
Without me having to get up and go look, is the dryer a bolt on? I know the house units are soldered on. Anything else that needs to be changed while I'm in there? I remember reading something about an orifice tube or something that might get clogged up? Is that internal to the compressor or something additional I should buy? This is mama's rig and we have to keep her happy. I don't want to hear about how her AC died this summer because I screwed something up.
The dryer is bolt on (can you see us shade tree'rs soldering ) Since the system will be open, replacing the orifice tube would be PM, but I'm not sure I'd fuss with it. Seems you haven't had anything let go, so nothing should have clogged the screen. Most of the time it's the descant escaping from a ruptured bag or worse (compressor shavings).
ALWAYS want mama happy, and don't worry, even if the shop were to mess it up, it'd be your fault for not making sure they did it right.
Does anyone have the Ford part number for the clutch assy? I've searched high and low and the Google has failed me! My dad's clutch is shot and we want to replace the clutch and not the whole compressor. I replaced mine with Stewart a few years ago but I can't seem to dig up the clutch assy part number.
It'll be good to have that Part Number associated with this thread.
There's no need to go to Ford. Any place can get a clutch assembly for a Ford FS-10 compressor. Be sure to get the pulley that matches his serpentine belt. 8-groove for SuperDuty diesels. Don't get the kind that has the three large rubber shock isolators. They fail.
It should look like this one:
and not this one:\
Sorry about that sizing thing....
Get a shim kit, too.
Only tools required should be an 8mm socket and a snap-ring pliers for external snap rings. I wouldn't bother to install the new coil with it, as it just increases the time spent.
Make sure the compressor snout (where the snap ring is) is clean before trying to get the pulley off.