Code 213 SPOUT Circuit Open
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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No, it's still not fixed yet. I've been pretty busy and haven't worked on this problem in a while. The only update I have is that the timing isn't retarding for that split second, it's advancing. I was looking at that wrong. Everything seems to check out and it points to the computer being the problem. I'm reluctant to spend a bunch of money replacing the computer since that junkyard unit shows the same problem with the same symptoms as the original. I'm weighing whether to spend $250 on a reman computer or just spend the money on an old carb intake and distributor and be done with it. The timing seems to be doing what it's supposed to be doing--advancing when it should--except for those quick misfires. Also, it only seems to be advancing to about 26* total. That seems low to me, but this is my first six cylinder.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Vancouver, Canada
I got this code once on my 1992 ford bronco. I replaced the distributor after doing all the checks in the haynes manual. Solved the problem. Now a year later the code has come back because of that cheap rebuilt distributor I got from napa craped out. So take a good look at your distributor.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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Yeah, I got my reman from an auto parts store also. Anyone know where to get a good quality replacement? I'm willing to try it. Also, is it the PIP inside the distributor that goes bad? I've tested ground through the distributor and it checked out okay. Maybe it's the PIP. I drove the truck last week and the idle misfire was worse than before. A couple months back I tested vacuum at the MAP and found a very slow leak. When I pulled the plug off the MAP it smoothed out and ran fine, so I replaced the MAP last week. It's running better----doesn't have the off-idle stumble like it had-----but still isn't completely smooth. Come to find out that unplugging the MAP causes the engine to run in open loop, so it doesn't necessarily point to the MAP as the problem. I haven't checked timing since replacing the MAP to see if it is still jumping forward like it was before. Thanks.
-Bob
-Bob
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Yes the pip is in the distributor. It is the profile ignition pickup. So it is dependent on the hall effect coming from the distributor. The hall effect is the building and collapse of the magnetic field as the teeth in the distributor pass through the pip sensor. So if the truck has a cappy pip signal from a crappy hall effect it will think it that when it sends out the spout from the computer the truck is not responding. Basically the computer gives it's output but because of the bad distributor it can't see what it just did so it assumes that the spout is open.
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Freshman User
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That's a good explanation. I knew what the PIP sensor was and what it did, but I didn't think it really had much to do with the spout circuit. I figured that if the PIP was bad, I would get a PIP code. When I did a search for this topic I found a guy that had the code 213 when he changed his distributor. Then when he switched back to the original distributor the code went away. So I thought replacing the distributor might solve my problem. Got one from Autozone a while back and everything is the same. Maybe I'll see if I can find a decent junkyard unit around here. I'll also check to see what an OEM PIP sensor costs from Ford.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Watertown, TN Wilson CO.
I have the same d***m code, and I replaced the following.
Replaced the distributor with a Ford OEM one from AC Hilltop Auto and Salvage in Lebanon, TN
Replaced the TFI Module
Fixed all the Vaccum lines
retimed the truck after I replaced the the dirstrib.
next i might replace the MAP sensor to see if that helps.
Replaced the distributor with a Ford OEM one from AC Hilltop Auto and Salvage in Lebanon, TN
Replaced the TFI Module
Fixed all the Vaccum lines
retimed the truck after I replaced the the dirstrib.
next i might replace the MAP sensor to see if that helps.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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Many years back I ran across this several times. I believe it was a code 213 not a 100 percent sure. Traced the concern back and forth just as you have done. The TFI module was remote mounted on the inner fender, opposed to the earlier models mounted on the distributor assy. The part number in the parts manual was incorrect. The Black TFI module was the proper module, opposed to the grey. It did eliminate the code after installing the correct module. To my knowledge the parts manual was never corrected, always had to request a module for a later year model. I do remember this code would generate a continuouse memory code in less than a minute after clearing and restarting. If I recall correctly the two modules are wired differently.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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Did verify TFI module wiring differences in 93 versus 94. The biggest indication between models pin #3 on TFI is R/LB hot in crank mode on 93 model. Pin #3 on 94 model is Y/BK circuit to PCM pin #4 [IDM], Ignition Diagnostic Monitor. Possible you might have a late model build 93? Hope this helps.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2012
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Spout Connector should be within 6 inches of the ignition module. [TFI Module] connector. I believe mounted by the driver hood hinge inner fender area. The connector would have been originally taped to the side of the harness, grey two pin connector.
spour
spour
