Coolant level
#31
Well got the truck back yesterday with a brand new radiator. This makes the 3rd radiator to be in this truck the first one was replaced shortly after the guy who had the truck before me drove it off the lot. According to tech at dealership ford determined that after some time the coolant becomes acidic and the water pump pumping at such a high rate causes coolant to eat through radiators. He also told me that for the 2011 they now have a check coolant light that comes on and lets them know to check both acid level and strength of coolant about every 7500 miles.
Also no more exhaust smell in the cab, found an exhaust leak behind turbo (had to pull cab) luckily that was under warranty...Just thought I would update as to what they found out. Thanks guys for all the input.
Also no more exhaust smell in the cab, found an exhaust leak behind turbo (had to pull cab) luckily that was under warranty...Just thought I would update as to what they found out. Thanks guys for all the input.
Cavitation...that is what eats at things.
#33
She is headed back to dealership today. Still using coolant and looks like at a faster rate than before I took it the first time. One would think if in fact the radiator was leaking and they put in a new radiator the last thing to happen would be losing coolant faster than before. I am wondering if they couldn't actually find the problem before and chose to install new radiator in hopes that would solve the issue and get me on my way.
#34
Not so happy with ford
Keep us posted on your out come.Mine is at the dealer now getting a new radiator.The more I read on this and other web sites the more you see on this and other radiator problems. Ford should step up to the plate on this but I guess they would say it not a safety matter. Just $$$ This just is not the way to treat your customers FORD!
#35
It's almost what your name is. I don't know how it works on a truck but I'm guessing the impeller in the water pump does what the prop on a boat does. At just the right speed and angle a boat prop will build a pocket of air around itself. (spin out) On inboard/ out board motors that creates a situation where the water intakes do not get water and the boat overheats. I suspect if the impellar did the same thing then the water pump would quit pumping and the truck would over heat. At least that's how I remember cavatation, it's been awhile since I messed with boats. Sennix, how close did I come?
#36
Hey sennix, where do you get your test strips. I used to be able to get a couple at the dealership but the last time I tried the SA said no can do. Napa sells them but only in a set of about 20 and I use one or two a year and they expire in a year or less. Anywhere I could buy just a few.
#37
Hey sennix, where do you get your test strips. I used to be able to get a couple at the dealership but the last time I tried the SA said no can do. Napa sells them but only in a set of about 20 and I use one or two a year and they expire in a year or less. Anywhere I could buy just a few.
#38
#39
It's almost what your name is. I don't know how it works on a truck but I'm guessing the impeller in the water pump does what the prop on a boat does. At just the right speed and angle a boat prop will build a pocket of air around itself. (spin out) On inboard/ out board motors that creates a situation where the water intakes do not get water and the boat overheats. I suspect if the impellar did the same thing then the water pump would quit pumping and the truck would over heat. At least that's how I remember cavatation, it's been awhile since I messed with boats. Sennix, how close did I come?
Since the shock waves formed by cavitation are strong enough to significantly damage moving parts, cavitation is usually an undesirable phenomenon.
#40
Thanks for the explanation guys. If I may take this one step further how does testing nitrates help prevent cavitation? Does cavitation happen when coolant gets broken down (old)?
Truck Update: The o-ring from the top radiator hose to the motor was leaking. No biggie I have heard of this before. Pick it up Friday and topped it off with coolant Saturday morning because it didnt look like they had added any. Drove to bank and back (about 5 miles) and then going to change fuel filter. I like to never got the bottom one off by the way. Climb under truck and what do I see, small amount of coolant leaking. You've got to be kidding me!!! I go ahead and change filters and be sure to check coolant level while cold. Looked as best I could to see where the coolant was coming from with no luck. Drove the truck about 100 miles that day and was going to check when I got home. Looked at the truck that night and everything was dry and looked to be good to go. Sunday Morning - checked degas bottle, coolant is now below cold fill line again. Drive about 5 miles get back home crawl under truck and coolant is slowly dripping. Finally after about 30 minutes trying to spot the source it looks like its leaking from the same hose where the o-ring was replaced. After speaking with the service manager this morning he assured me they tested it and I had not replaced a radiator for no reason. At this point thats all I really have to go on is his word. I am headed back there now with the truck and hoping they can actually fix it this time.
Truck Update: The o-ring from the top radiator hose to the motor was leaking. No biggie I have heard of this before. Pick it up Friday and topped it off with coolant Saturday morning because it didnt look like they had added any. Drove to bank and back (about 5 miles) and then going to change fuel filter. I like to never got the bottom one off by the way. Climb under truck and what do I see, small amount of coolant leaking. You've got to be kidding me!!! I go ahead and change filters and be sure to check coolant level while cold. Looked as best I could to see where the coolant was coming from with no luck. Drove the truck about 100 miles that day and was going to check when I got home. Looked at the truck that night and everything was dry and looked to be good to go. Sunday Morning - checked degas bottle, coolant is now below cold fill line again. Drive about 5 miles get back home crawl under truck and coolant is slowly dripping. Finally after about 30 minutes trying to spot the source it looks like its leaking from the same hose where the o-ring was replaced. After speaking with the service manager this morning he assured me they tested it and I had not replaced a radiator for no reason. At this point thats all I really have to go on is his word. I am headed back there now with the truck and hoping they can actually fix it this time.
#41
Don't know what NAPA charges but you can get 4 test strips for $5.67 from:
CTS-3 Three-Way Antifreeze Specifications
Chuck
08 F450
CTS-3 Three-Way Antifreeze Specifications
Chuck
08 F450
#42
Don't know what NAPA charges but you can get 4 test strips for $5.67 from:
CTS-3 Three-Way Antifreeze Specifications
Chuck
08 F450
CTS-3 Three-Way Antifreeze Specifications
Chuck
08 F450
#43
Don't know what NAPA charges but you can get 4 test strips for $5.67 from:
CTS-3 Three-Way Antifreeze Specifications
Chuck
08 F450
CTS-3 Three-Way Antifreeze Specifications
Chuck
08 F450
#44
Got the truck back last week and guess what ....o-ring was still leaking. So here is what I have found out. If the truck is leaking coolant due to o-ring and you are out of your 3/36K warranty period you get a new o-ring. If you are still in warranty period you get newly designed radiator hose with double o-rings and what looks like a heavier duty connection at the engine side of the hose. The dealership put the new hose on and looks to have solved the problem. Still keeping a close eye on it though. As always I appreciate everyones input and hopefully someone else can gain a little insight if they ever run into this.
#45
2008 6.4 Upper radiator hose leak
Got the truck back last week and guess what ....o-ring was still leaking. So here is what I have found out. If the truck is leaking coolant due to o-ring and you are out of your 3/36K warranty period you get a new o-ring. If you are still in warranty period you get newly designed radiator hose with double o-rings and what looks like a heavier duty connection at the engine side of the hose. The dealership put the new hose on and looks to have solved the problem. Still keeping a close eye on it though. As always I appreciate everyones input and hopefully someone else can gain a little insight if they ever run into this.