Need Steering shaft opinions, please.
#1
Need Steering shaft opinions, please.
Another bump in the road. I keep repeating to myself; "Minor modification maybe neccessary!!"
I am putting the Heidt's power rack in my truck.
I have a GM column (PO installed) and it uses a shaft that is 5/8-36 splines. The U-joint is welded to the end of the steering shaft on the existing column and turns freely with no catches or rough feel to it.
The rack uses 3/4-36 splines.
If I take the 5/8 shaft and have it turned down to around 3/8 and have a 3/8 hole bored in the 3/4 shaft theoretically I could insert the smaller shaft into the larger one and pin and weld it in place creating my own adapter with the 3/4-36 on one end and the 5/8-36 on the other.
The question is would it be safe? I don't want the hassle of replacing the steering column and will only do this modification if it can be done safely.
My life is worth more than $400.
I am putting the Heidt's power rack in my truck.
I have a GM column (PO installed) and it uses a shaft that is 5/8-36 splines. The U-joint is welded to the end of the steering shaft on the existing column and turns freely with no catches or rough feel to it.
The rack uses 3/4-36 splines.
If I take the 5/8 shaft and have it turned down to around 3/8 and have a 3/8 hole bored in the 3/4 shaft theoretically I could insert the smaller shaft into the larger one and pin and weld it in place creating my own adapter with the 3/4-36 on one end and the 5/8-36 on the other.
The question is would it be safe? I don't want the hassle of replacing the steering column and will only do this modification if it can be done safely.
My life is worth more than $400.
#2
#3
I checked with them first. From their website:
"Borgeson does not recommend using less than 3/4” diameter steering shaft. We will not sell a shaft with a smaller diameter due to safety considerations. For example a 5/8” shaft is 42% weaker than a 3/4” shaft and can be twisted with a 14” steering wheel. Borgeson offers three basic steering shaft types; splined, Double-D and Telescopic."
Sam, I believe what you listed is for the U-joints. I contemplated getting one that went from 3/4-36 to 5/8-36 but then the trouble of finding a steering shaft of a specific length with 5/8-36 on each end is what I would be up against.
The top U-joint is welded to the steering column. I need the shaft that goes between the column and the rack to have 2 different size ends on it or some sort of adapter.
The intermediate shaft I have now has 5/8-36 splines on one end and that end is a double-d male shaft and is pinned into a double-d female end which has a U-joint welded to the other end of it. I could theoretically
cut the large end off and insert the 3/4 into it or cut the short end off and have the machining done.
I'll post pictures this evening.
"Borgeson does not recommend using less than 3/4” diameter steering shaft. We will not sell a shaft with a smaller diameter due to safety considerations. For example a 5/8” shaft is 42% weaker than a 3/4” shaft and can be twisted with a 14” steering wheel. Borgeson offers three basic steering shaft types; splined, Double-D and Telescopic."
Sam, I believe what you listed is for the U-joints. I contemplated getting one that went from 3/4-36 to 5/8-36 but then the trouble of finding a steering shaft of a specific length with 5/8-36 on each end is what I would be up against.
The top U-joint is welded to the steering column. I need the shaft that goes between the column and the rack to have 2 different size ends on it or some sort of adapter.
The intermediate shaft I have now has 5/8-36 splines on one end and that end is a double-d male shaft and is pinned into a double-d female end which has a U-joint welded to the other end of it. I could theoretically
cut the large end off and insert the 3/4 into it or cut the short end off and have the machining done.
I'll post pictures this evening.
#4
ok, got it..
looks like Flaming River is not as picky..
they make an adapter 5/8-36 to smooth, double D. ...
so you would use the existing 5/8-36 shaft, and the adapter to DD (what I like), or whatever
3/4" X 5/8"-36 (1" OD) Steering Coupler - FR1943 - Universal Joints - Steering Couplers
sam
looks like Flaming River is not as picky..
they make an adapter 5/8-36 to smooth, double D. ...
so you would use the existing 5/8-36 shaft, and the adapter to DD (what I like), or whatever
3/4" X 5/8"-36 (1" OD) Steering Coupler - FR1943 - Universal Joints - Steering Couplers
sam
#5
If you know what the column size and spline is, does that mean there is shaft available above the welded on U joint? if so why not cut off the welded joint and replace it with a whatever the column needs and 3/4" double D combo joint so you can cut your intermediate shaft to fit and use it. Failing that, have you looked at replacing the GM shaft with a new replacement shaft without a u joint attached? They should be available from collision shop supply houses (shafts often need replacing after a collision especially if it is a collapsable model), dealership, or from a wrecking yard (try searching on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market), you might even be able to get a complete column cheaper than what you are proposing. I sure wouldn't trust my life to a cobbled together shaft.
#6
Not sure if you are going to need an inspection or if it would even be noticed but in some States / Provinces any welding on steering components is not allowed (but done). In our current age of litigation IF something was to happen even if not your fault, guess what?
Best would be if it was possible to replace the welded u-joint on the old shaft ?
Best would be if it was possible to replace the welded u-joint on the old shaft ?
#7
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#8
Here's the pictures of what I have.
This is the steering column where it comes out of the firewall. The splines in this U-joint are 5/8-36 GM. This is one of the U-joints that is welded.
This is the old intermediate shaft that went from the column to the steering box. Same size splines in the U-joint.
I need 3/4-36 for the rack. The problem is that I have female splines on each point that needs attachment. 3/4-36 on the rack and 5/8-36 on the column.
A close up of the shaft end. I thought maybe I could either drill out the pins holding the shaft together and use the double-d sleeve to join this end with a 3/4-36 splined double-d shaft, or I could do some machining to get them together somehow.
I guess I could always just replace the column but, then I am having to buy a drop and a steering wheel and adapter etc... not to mention the wiring nightmare.
This is the steering column where it comes out of the firewall. The splines in this U-joint are 5/8-36 GM. This is one of the U-joints that is welded.
This is the old intermediate shaft that went from the column to the steering box. Same size splines in the U-joint.
I need 3/4-36 for the rack. The problem is that I have female splines on each point that needs attachment. 3/4-36 on the rack and 5/8-36 on the column.
A close up of the shaft end. I thought maybe I could either drill out the pins holding the shaft together and use the double-d sleeve to join this end with a 3/4-36 splined double-d shaft, or I could do some machining to get them together somehow.
I guess I could always just replace the column but, then I am having to buy a drop and a steering wheel and adapter etc... not to mention the wiring nightmare.
#9
OK, your confusing me with details, (easy to do) lets do this one step at a time;
1. The centre connecting shaft: How long does it have to be? Is there enough length in the old shaft in the square outside DD area to use it?
2. Can you grind / cutting wheel the welded u joint off the steering column?
3. So now we have u joint at rack that is 3/4x36 by 1” DD ......(guessing size here)
4. A piece of 1” DD shaft, and yes the inside core will side together inside to give support, a couple of split pins will hold it in place. U joints have set screws. Or if you need more intimidate shaft length leave the spline on and order the column u joint bottom spline the same.
5. A new u joint at the column, what ever size the shaft spline turns out to be by 1 ‘ DD.
Clear as mud? I have a similar system (ford V) that I just put on my f1, pictures upon request.
1. The centre connecting shaft: How long does it have to be? Is there enough length in the old shaft in the square outside DD area to use it?
2. Can you grind / cutting wheel the welded u joint off the steering column?
3. So now we have u joint at rack that is 3/4x36 by 1” DD ......(guessing size here)
4. A piece of 1” DD shaft, and yes the inside core will side together inside to give support, a couple of split pins will hold it in place. U joints have set screws. Or if you need more intimidate shaft length leave the spline on and order the column u joint bottom spline the same.
5. A new u joint at the column, what ever size the shaft spline turns out to be by 1 ‘ DD.
Clear as mud? I have a similar system (ford V) that I just put on my f1, pictures upon request.
Last edited by Old F1; 03-11-2011 at 08:22 PM. Reason: added
#10
OK, your confusing me with details, (easy to do) lets do this one step at a time;
1. The centre connecting shaft: How long does it have to be? Is there enough length in the old shaft in the square outside DD area to use it?
2. Can you grind / cutting wheel the welded u joint off the steering column?
3. So now we have u joint at rack that is 3/4x36 by 1” DD ......(guessing size here)
4. A piece of 1” DD shaft, and yes the inside core will side together inside to give support, a couple of split pins will hold it in place. U joints have set screws. Or if you need more intimidate shaft length leave the spline on and order the column u joint bottom spline the same.
5. A new u joint at the column, what ever size the shaft spline turns out to be by 1 ‘ DD.
Clear as mud? I have a similar system (ford V) that I just put on my f1, pictures upon request.
1. The centre connecting shaft: How long does it have to be? Is there enough length in the old shaft in the square outside DD area to use it?
2. Can you grind / cutting wheel the welded u joint off the steering column?
3. So now we have u joint at rack that is 3/4x36 by 1” DD ......(guessing size here)
4. A piece of 1” DD shaft, and yes the inside core will side together inside to give support, a couple of split pins will hold it in place. U joints have set screws. Or if you need more intimidate shaft length leave the spline on and order the column u joint bottom spline the same.
5. A new u joint at the column, what ever size the shaft spline turns out to be by 1 ‘ DD.
Clear as mud? I have a similar system (ford V) that I just put on my f1, pictures upon request.
2. I will try to cut the weld tomorrow. I hope the end of the column is 5/8-36 spline. That would simplify things. Then all I wold have to do is get a 5/8-36 x 3/4-36 U-joint ands be done with it. (Could I be that lucky?)
3. The U-joint for the rack is 3/4-36 spline x 3/4-36 spline. I ordered it before checking the diameter of the intermediate shaft. Borgeson only sells 3/4 inch shafts anyway so, I figured I would have to have one of those at the very least.
4. An option would be to use a dd shaft from the rack up to the old dd outer shown in the close up. I would have to cut the tube off where the dd part ends and remove the pins on the old shaft to slide it further out to make room for the new shaft if I can find one that size with the 3/4-36 splines. (Hence my asking about depth minimums.)
5/ Just going to have to wait and see I guess.
I just wanted a few ideas before I started into this to see if any of my logic was sound or not. I probably should have waited until I knew what was at the end of the steering column. The worse that will happen is I goof it up and have to buy a new column (which is what I thought I would have to do anyway.)
#11
well, steering joints are not really a place I would cut corners....your life depends on them.
I would try to cut the welded part off the column (carefully) and see what you got. It's hard to tell from your pic exactly HOW it is welded on. GM column shafts are hollow and have a larger O.D., like 1" or so. If you can't save it, maybe replace the shaft as noted above. I would ditch those old joints and shaft and start over.....
I would try to cut the welded part off the column (carefully) and see what you got. It's hard to tell from your pic exactly HOW it is welded on. GM column shafts are hollow and have a larger O.D., like 1" or so. If you can't save it, maybe replace the shaft as noted above. I would ditch those old joints and shaft and start over.....
#12
Ididit, here we come!!
It really is a moot point now. I need to replace the steering column.
I have no idea what year or model Oldsmobile this came out of and I have now rendered the column inoperable with the grinding. Here is what I found:
This:
Had been inserted into this:
And then it was welded together.
I had hoped the shaft would be solid and splined. Oh well. I really wanted an Ididit column anyway!
Again, God is doing for me what I could not do for myself and probably saving my life at the same time.
I have no idea what year or model Oldsmobile this came out of and I have now rendered the column inoperable with the grinding. Here is what I found:
This:
Had been inserted into this:
And then it was welded together.
I had hoped the shaft would be solid and splined. Oh well. I really wanted an Ididit column anyway!
Again, God is doing for me what I could not do for myself and probably saving my life at the same time.
#13