Here's my problems. Over the past few weeks sometimes when I start my 05 v6 escape I have to crank it for awhile. Other times it fires right up. But the big problem was last night. I started it up and it fired right away but idled at around 400rpm and slowly climbed up to around 1200rpm then droped to 600 then climbed slowly nearly 2000.
2000 is about right for my high idel.
Do you think my IAC valve could be causing all of this?
Any help would be welcome.

 

The IAC could cause the varying idle speed. Did it seem that it was mis-firing or just idling slow? If it is misfire, don't let it go for long as the COP can damage the ECM, I think with back EMF, when it misfires.
tom

 

No dosent feel like a miss fire have had misses before not that. Just hard start and rough idle. When warm it runs fine. I have ordered an iac valve. Hope it fixes the problem.

 

sounds right for a iac valve.When mine acted up it did not through a code or light up the cel.

 

Well, if the idle is 'rough', as in the engine is shaking, that means it is misfiring. I have known some engines to idle smooth but at very low rpm. If this symptom came about over a period of time, as in getting worse and worse as time went on, I would suspect the air and coolant temp sensors, one or both, were not informing the ECM of the situation. It would then not command a richer mixture to keep it from misfire, and a higher idle for the same reason. You could even have an intermittent connection or sensor function that makes the idle go up and down as the 'information' changes and the ECM commands lower or higher idle.
If the IAC will keep the idle steady when you engage the A/C, when you turn or start to turn the steering wheel, then the IAC is at least functional. I guess it could be marginal, but it is supposed to counter the increased load from A/C and power steering pump by bumping the idle. If it can do that, it works, and must be pretty free and quick to respond, not gummed up.
It is hard to tell if the command is being sent to raise the idle, or is being sent intermittently. My engine will start, the idle will be high, (in my mind too high), and then immediately start to step the idle speed down. It doesn't run very long at the higher idle. I think a 2k high idle is higher than what I have in a 2007 v6. If it hits 2k, it is for a very short period of time.
tom

 

I ordered the iac will be in on Monday. I will look into the coolant temp sensor. I guess I may misslead you by rough idle. It dosent shake just dosent stay steady. The last time it acted up it would just crank for awhile. Then I let it sit for a minute then it started right up at around 1200rpm then slowly climbed to just under 2000. Might be the cold temp of 18 at the time. I did note each time is was below 30 outside. Ill keep you guys informed of my progress and thanks.

 

Replaced iac helped a bit. Don't have to crank it as long to start. But still starts at low rpm then climbs slowly. Ill try the coolant temp sensor next.
When I did iac I also replaced plugs manifold gaskets. Cleaned the maf sensor and new air filter.

 

Did you clear the KAM by disconnecting the battery, and stepping on the brake pedal? The Keep Alive Memory 'learns' what the IAC command should be for different idle speeds. By stepping on the brake pedal, or turning on the headlights, you drain the power from the memory quickly. You can do the same thing by letting it sit with the battery disconnected for a while. I don't really know if it makes much difference. I am assuming that the same tactic will work for this 'brain' as worked for the older models. I haven't tried erasing the KAM on my vehicle.
You may be able to access reference material at your local library if you have a card. I just found our county library system has online shop manual access for some vehicles. That could give you a reference for the ohm values on the ECT and ACT sensors at a given temperature. I would not replace them w/o checking first.
tom

 

Yes cleared the memory. Disconnected battery and turned ignition on.
I hope the coolant temp sensor helps.

 

Still no luck. Still cranks for for awhile before starting. So I went and popped the fuel line off the other day. I took it off at the fuel filter and zero pressure in the line. I'm going to put new filter in and then check for leaks. With my luck it is most likely a leaking injector.
What else besides a leaking injector or a cracked line would cause me to loose all fuel pressure after about 2 or 3 hours of sitting?

 

I forget if these vehicles have a return fuel line or not, but I've seen leaking fuel pressure regulators do that quite often.


EDIT: Looked at my manual and they use a returnless fuel system. HOWEVER, unlike other returnless systems, the V6 Escapes have a Mechanical Returnless Fuel System. This means there is still a fuel pressure regulator. The regulator is on top of the fuel pump. Don't know if this is your problem, just throwing that out there....

 

Look for a vacuum leak and look at the PCV lines for cracked or damaged rubber elbows or boots (they have been known to cause like problems) and elbows get very soft and fail.
Other wise I would say you have a failing injector that is loosing pressure and the system does not have a return line.

 

Checked vac lines already no leaks. I'm leaning twords injectors. Once she starts she runs good except for now it seams like I have a cylinder or 2 running a little rich. I will be hoping to get new injectors soon if hours aren't cut at work again.
Maybe ill pull the rail and injectors and pressurize the line and see if they are leaking. Thanks for the help

 

if the injectors are leaking you should have a very distinct gasoline smell in your oil.


JMO,
Jason