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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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battery problems

hi again,

I'm having problems with my battery, it dies a lot I thought it was just the door ajar sensor if you read my other posts, but that's fixed now, I can't start it when I jump it on another car, drive around, listen to music, turn it off nd its dead again. Do I have just have a junk battery or could it be something else like alternate or something

Thanks again guys
Alex
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Take it to a parts store and they should be able to check it for free. How old is the battery?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 02:17 PM
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I couldn't tell you. It's uninspected so I can't really drive it anywhere...
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 09:12 PM
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Do you have a volt meter that you understand how to use? If so, what is the battery voltage with the key off? What does the battery/charging system read after you jump start the car to get it running? You typed that you "can't start it" when you jump it, but based on context clues I assume you meant "can start it".

If you don't have a multimeter and cannot drive it to get the charging system tested, you're going to need to get a meter to determine where the problem is or replace a bunch of expensive parts and hope at least one of them fixes the issue.

-Rod
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 09:25 AM
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Yes I do and Yes I meant can drive it ill check the volts ASAP and let you know
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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Before you start testing, connect a battery charger and bring the battery up to full.

make sure battery terminals are clean and tight.

Battery reading at rest (4hr no charge) = 12.6vdc.
battery voltage engine cranking, = >10vdc
battery voltage, charging, = 14.2 to14.7vdc.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 08:11 PM
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Thanks for the help and Sorry for the pause in posting, but I jumped nd charged it, charging was 14.4 clanking was, 12.3 then dropped to 10.8 on second crank, and at rest before and after charge and start was ranged from 9.6 to 9.9
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:38 PM
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If you are reporting the after a good charge, then resting, the reading is between 9-10vdc, you either have a parasitic drain or the battery has a short.

Charge the battery full again and disconnect the neg terminal, test after 4hrs... Report back.. Philip
 
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Old Mar 13, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Will do in the morning thankss
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 06:58 AM
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Or if you have alternate transportation, take the battery to your local battery or auto parts store and have them load test the battery. It sounds like you might have a couple of weak cells that accept a surface charge but have very little capacity.

-Rod
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by shorod
Or if you have alternate transportation, take the battery to your local battery or auto parts store and have them load test the battery. It sounds like you might have a couple of weak cells that accept a surface charge but have very little capacity.

-Rod
Thanks Rod, that was the purpose of the tests, a crank load after charge /rest should not go below 10VDC and return to 12vdc and above immediately on key off... if it passes this test surface charge on weak cell is not an issue.. Philip
 
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Old Mar 14, 2011 | 12:09 PM
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Agreed. The load test on the battery by itself will take the rest of the factors (nearly shorted starter) out of the equation in the event it fails the in-car test. For the in-car test he might add checking the voltage on the battery post as well as on the connector to rule out a bad connection between the cable and battery post. The stepped drop in voltage from the first crank to the second crank is suspicious. At that point I'd definitely move the meter probes from the cables to the posts if not already measuring at the posts (both meter leads, positive and negative).

It sounds like the starter is probably not the issue and he's going to end up at the battery store anyway.

-Rod
 
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