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I'm having problems with my battery, it dies a lot I thought it was just the door ajar sensor if you read my other posts, but that's fixed now, I can't start it when I jump it on another car, drive around, listen to music, turn it off nd its dead again. Do I have just have a junk battery or could it be something else like alternate or something
Do you have a volt meter that you understand how to use? If so, what is the battery voltage with the key off? What does the battery/charging system read after you jump start the car to get it running? You typed that you "can't start it" when you jump it, but based on context clues I assume you meant "can start it".
If you don't have a multimeter and cannot drive it to get the charging system tested, you're going to need to get a meter to determine where the problem is or replace a bunch of expensive parts and hope at least one of them fixes the issue.
Thanks for the help and Sorry for the pause in posting, but I jumped nd charged it, charging was 14.4 clanking was, 12.3 then dropped to 10.8 on second crank, and at rest before and after charge and start was ranged from 9.6 to 9.9
If you are reporting the after a good charge, then resting, the reading is between 9-10vdc, you either have a parasitic drain or the battery has a short.
Charge the battery full again and disconnect the neg terminal, test after 4hrs... Report back.. Philip
Or if you have alternate transportation, take the battery to your local battery or auto parts store and have them load test the battery. It sounds like you might have a couple of weak cells that accept a surface charge but have very little capacity.
Or if you have alternate transportation, take the battery to your local battery or auto parts store and have them load test the battery. It sounds like you might have a couple of weak cells that accept a surface charge but have very little capacity.
-Rod
Thanks Rod, that was the purpose of the tests, a crank load after charge /rest should not go below 10VDC and return to 12vdc and above immediately on key off... if it passes this test surface charge on weak cell is not an issue.. Philip
Agreed. The load test on the battery by itself will take the rest of the factors (nearly shorted starter) out of the equation in the event it fails the in-car test. For the in-car test he might add checking the voltage on the battery post as well as on the connector to rule out a bad connection between the cable and battery post. The stepped drop in voltage from the first crank to the second crank is suspicious. At that point I'd definitely move the meter probes from the cables to the posts if not already measuring at the posts (both meter leads, positive and negative).
It sounds like the starter is probably not the issue and he's going to end up at the battery store anyway.
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