trans temp going in
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
trans temp going in
Fellas, im throwing in the trans temp tomorrow and i was wondering aside from the trans temp gauge, what all would be needed. Anyone know how much fluid drops when just dropping the pan? Im going to drain the trans cooler as well. Thinking about 6 quarts? not sure. Also is there a gasket or just the good sillycone? Silicone better or gasket better? Next would be welding in the sender port or drilling and using the sealing fitting on both sides. Thanks for any help and if anyone knows of a spot on a c6 to put one aside from the pan, im all ears!
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From: Princeton MN
Wreck,
The pan is the best spot for the sendor it has the most stable temp. When you drop the pan and the cooler you should flush the cooler. Theres an arosol can the screws onto the tranny line it cleans the junk out of it. On my trans i put a deeper b&m finned aluminum pan on it i had to grind the fins off on the back but it had the hole for the probe in it. My deeper pan holds 2extra qts. And when i put my rebuilt trans in it took 14qts to fill it. So take the 2 away from the pan there has to be at least 2 in the converter and with whats in the pump and clutches id start with 6 and add a qt at a time until its where you want it.
The pan is the best spot for the sendor it has the most stable temp. When you drop the pan and the cooler you should flush the cooler. Theres an arosol can the screws onto the tranny line it cleans the junk out of it. On my trans i put a deeper b&m finned aluminum pan on it i had to grind the fins off on the back but it had the hole for the probe in it. My deeper pan holds 2extra qts. And when i put my rebuilt trans in it took 14qts to fill it. So take the 2 away from the pan there has to be at least 2 in the converter and with whats in the pump and clutches id start with 6 and add a qt at a time until its where you want it.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
yeah i got the can of goop, have 8 plus quarts of ATF and some new tubing to re run the lines better. Got the 1/8-3/4 tubing bender and some fittings. The gauge is the Z series matching set trans temp from 100-250. Should be just right. Have all the electrical junctions and sort so good there. Man it will be nice to have pyro, trans, boost and tach all same series. going to look sweet. As for the spot on the stock pan, better side or bottom, im thinking drivers side on the side of the pan.
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From: Princeton MN
Thats where b&m put it. I have the exact same guages as you mine are under the dash though nowhere else to put then. The trans temp i ended up pegging in traffic with the old tranny didnt burn the fluid though. Anywho with it in the pan id try to stay below 200 degrees. Empty on a hot day it gets up to about 130 but towing its too hot i need another aux cooler.
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From: Princeton MN
Watch out getting the pan off. My cat like reflexes and ability to bend like a crouton saved me from warm shower of merconIII the pan was good and stuck to the trans and the "tap" it took to get it off made gravity start to work pretty good. 
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
haha yeah i was told to loosen all of them about 1/8" and then give it a nudge and look the hell out haha. is it a gasket or just silicone?
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Posting Guru
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From: Princeton MN
The right aswer is yes. If someone dropped the pan before it might be just silicone mine had a gasket. Oh and thats another plus of the b&m pan, A DRAIN PLUG! Whoda thunk that little bolt might be handier then a gun at a knife fight!
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Buckley, WA
Mine had "reuseable" gasket. I bought new one when I did the flush. New gasket leaked like crazy even with all bolts 12ft lbs. Put the old gasket back on and good as new. There is 2 metal bands that go through that one I belive and I used no silicone whatsoever
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: So. Jersey
The sensor should be in a location where it's out of road wind that could give false readings. I always mount them on the rear side of the pan. Once you have a sensor in the pan, it can also be used for a drain plug in the future.
Also don't forget to drain the torque converter. The drain plug uses a 7/16 socket that is mounted in the front side of the torque converter. It's accessed through a hole in the flywheel similiar to the mounting nuts.
Also don't forget to drain the torque converter. The drain plug uses a 7/16 socket that is mounted in the front side of the torque converter. It's accessed through a hole in the flywheel similiar to the mounting nuts.
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Postmaster
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
hmmmm, thats a new one to me. I think im just going to leave it and take it to the trans place here in town that does the flush and fill for 79. But good info, how do you get access to it? Just cant picture it. Also installing a drain plug with the sender so no worries there. Id like to upgrade to the finned deep pans but too much for now, blew my wad on the turbo isntall haha.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
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From: So. Jersey
hmmmm, thats a new one to me. I think im just going to leave it and take it to the trans place here in town that does the flush and fill for 79. But good info, how do you get access to it? Just cant picture it. Also installing a drain plug with the sender so no worries there. Id like to upgrade to the finned deep pans but too much for now, blew my wad on the turbo isntall haha.
It's the plug near one of the studs. SEE PIC:
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
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From: So. Jersey
I'd atleast print the picture and ask if they will drain it. Most of the time the shops don't because it's more work. On a flush they usually will just unhook a trans line and splice in there machine and let it cycle out the fluid. There's a reason it's only 79 bucks. Make sure they are changing the screen too.