Quick question -- do the torsion bars need to be removed in order to replace a lower ball joint? Any other input as to replacing ball joints would be a big help as well. Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

They do unless you have a way of pressing the new ball joints in to the lower control arm. Since the torsion bars can be removed in less than 30 minutes, I went that route. It also relieves the spring tension on the lower control arm which lets you move it around a lot easier.

 

Do you have a balljoint press? If not you'll probably have to remove the control arm and take it to someone that does.
Otherwise you shouldn't need to touch the torsion bar. If you have to remove the torsion bar you'll need a tool to unload the bar while you remove the adjuster bolt at the back of the bar.
I've never removed a control arm to replace a balljoint as I have balljoint tools. reberhardt may have some more pointers in case you decide to remove the arm.
I start by removing the brake caliper from the bracket. Disconnect the ABS wire at the front of the inner fender and unattach it where it is held onto the brake hose and steering knuckle.
Remove the big nut on the end of the axle and push the axle in to make sure it isnt seized into the hub. Remove the nut and bolt that hold the upper balljoint to the knuckle and pry the upper control arm up while hitting the top of the knuckle from the side to loosen up the stud where it goes into the knuckle. Now you can remove the lower balljoint cotter pin and nut and seperate the joint from the knuckle. You can either remove the outer tierod end from the knuckle and remove the whole knuckle or leave it attached and swing the knuckle out of the way so you have room to work on the balljoint. Then you replace the joint and reassemble it all.

 

I am renting a ball joint press from Autozone. Cost $99 to buy it, then when you return it you get all your money back. Not a bad deal! I only plan on replacing the lower ball joint at this time. I beleive I have all the tools needed to do the job. I have the joint press, pickel fork, slip ring pliers and all the basic hand tools. Do I need to disturb the upper joint or the tie rod end in order to replace the lower joint? My Explorer is a '96 with 4x4 and anti-lock breaks. This is my first time replacing a ball joint, so any advise that you may have will be greatly appricated.

 

Yes you have to remove the upper balljoint from the steering knuckle in order to get the knuckle out far enough to get the axle out of the hub. Like I said in my post above, I don't remove the tierod end. I just pull the knuckle out of the way with the tierod end attached. Lots of people do remove the end though so they can get the knuckle right out. If you remove the tierod end dont use the pickle fork as you'll probably destroy the boot on the end. Just hit the knuckle where the end goes in to dislogde the end. Dont hit the stud of the tierod end
If you don't have a manual I would suggest getting one before you start....just in case.
Good luck and let us know how it goes

 

Thank you so much for all of your advice, Racerguy. I replaced the ball joint this weekend and it was a breeze. The only problem I ran into was getting the upper ball joint out of the steering knuckle.
I had to use a sledge hammer and beat straight down on the knuckle to make it "pop". The ball joint press I rented from Autozone worked beautiful. The whole job took me about 3 - 4 hours just because it was my first time. Thanks again, Danny

P.S. I have a Chilton's manual on the 91-99 Explorer, it's not in the trash!

 

Thanks for letting us know how it went
Getting the upper balljoint stud out of the knuckle is usually the most strenuous part of the job. I always pry up on the arm and then beat on the side of the knuckle where the stud goes in....it usually pops out not too bad that way but I've done the same as you too and used a sledge hammer to beat down on it.
And 3-4 hours isnt bad That's probably not far off of flat rate.

 

Oops, typo, I meant to say, "It's now in the trash".