M5OD refresh?
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Hollister, CA
M5OD refresh?
Hey guys, I have a 98 Ford Ranger with over 192k on it and my slave cylinder just went out on me the other day. Since I'm going to have to drop the transmission to get to it I was wondering if there's anything you'd recommend that I should do to the M5OD to freshen it up a little. I had read on here about there being 3 little rubber plugs on top that most people replace. Is that something you can only get from the dealer, and what is the proper name of them exactly? Or better yet, if someone has a part number for them?
I am planning on replacing the clutch, clutch master cylinder and rear main seal while I'm in there. Any other recommendations? I have only owned this truck for 4.5 years so I don't know if anything has ever been done to the transmission. They guy I bought it from said he had had the clutch replaced, but who knows. Thanks in advance!
I am planning on replacing the clutch, clutch master cylinder and rear main seal while I'm in there. Any other recommendations? I have only owned this truck for 4.5 years so I don't know if anything has ever been done to the transmission. They guy I bought it from said he had had the clutch replaced, but who knows. Thanks in advance!
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Joined: Apr 2004
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I think you can get metal expansion plugs in the correct size to replace the rubber plugs. Probably a dealer item otherwise.
Does it shift ok?
Synchros and shift forks seem to be the things folks replace.
Does it shift ok?
Synchros and shift forks seem to be the things folks replace.
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New User
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Hollister, CA
Like freeze plugs? Happen to know the size?
It shifts just fine when the engine isn't running. With the engine on though it won't go into any gear unless I were to force it, but I don't want to damage my tranny obviously. Since I've owned the truck the shift from 1st to 2nd hasn't always been the smoothest, but I've heard that's common with these trannys.
Synchros and shift forks are what I was thinking so I guess I'll take a peek inside. Any other seals that might not hurt to replace?
It shifts just fine when the engine isn't running. With the engine on though it won't go into any gear unless I were to force it, but I don't want to damage my tranny obviously. Since I've owned the truck the shift from 1st to 2nd hasn't always been the smoothest, but I've heard that's common with these trannys.
Synchros and shift forks are what I was thinking so I guess I'll take a peek inside. Any other seals that might not hurt to replace?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2004
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If you're going to the trouble of replacing the synchronizers, you may as well rebuild the entire transmission. There is very little additional labor involved in replacing the bearings once you have the case cracked open and have the gear assemblies on the output shaft broken down.
I think the 1-2 shift is a typical problem with this transmission with higher mileage. My '95 Ranger had the same problem as it aged.
I think the 1-2 shift is a typical problem with this transmission with higher mileage. My '95 Ranger had the same problem as it aged.
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Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Winnfield,La.
replacement items
I rebilt one about three years ago,in my 76 f100 with a 351w in it the trans came from an in line 300 six, the thing to know is if you have the new gears or old style, 96 should be the new style. but if the gears are good, (no chips) you can do a bearing up grade and be sure to get all the upper seals on the shift lever they leak as dose the rubber shift rod plugs. now you can spend the money at Ford or you can reuse your plugs by simply cleaning the area they plug into with any non residue cleaner, just make sure you get the plugs and holes clean of any grease. now for the expensive part, use ATV not enough to run into the gear box just enough to seal the plugs. but remember it will not hold unless the areas have been cleaned thoroughly.
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Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Hollister, CA
Thanks for all the replys, guys! I think I'll take a peek inside and then decide if it looks like it needs a rebuild. Do parts stores carry rebuild kits 'cause I didn't seem to find any when I was browsing their websites? And you need a press to get those bearings off the shaft, don't you? Or would you be able to get a puller on there somehow?
Oh, I found the part number for those replacement plugs on my Bronco forum (Dorman #555-011, bagged part number at auto store #362619.1)
Oh, I found the part number for those replacement plugs on my Bronco forum (Dorman #555-011, bagged part number at auto store #362619.1)
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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M5R1 manual transmission parts, rebuild kits and overhaul kits Ford & Mazda 5 Speed - Drivetrain.com Check here for rebuild kits and parts.
Try also motivegear.com who may be less expensive.
Try also motivegear.com who may be less expensive.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Winnfield,La.
rebuild information
go to this and print out the folders of 13 pages M5R2 5 speed manual transmission rebuild M5R2 5 speed manual transmission rebuild tutorial
http://www.fivaxis.com/m5r2rebuild/m5r2parts3.htm This will give you a printable set of instructions and how to rebuild guide, good luck, oh yes I forgot to mention that it also gives an out let for parts, I got my parts from drive train .com
http://www.fivaxis.com/m5r2rebuild/m5r2parts3.htm This will give you a printable set of instructions and how to rebuild guide, good luck, oh yes I forgot to mention that it also gives an out let for parts, I got my parts from drive train .com
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New User
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Hollister, CA
Does anyone know where you can get a replacement for that bolt that holds the shifter on? Dealer only?
I put the nut on the other side like I had read and tightened it and it was really hard to get off. I had to put all my weight into it, and when it finally came out I immediately noticed how messed up it was. Big chunk taken out of the top threads. I'm wondering if this happened when I took my truck to a shop a few years ago when my shifter broke off and I wasn't in the mood to mess with it. I don't know, but I'm definitely not putting it back in.
I put the nut on the other side like I had read and tightened it and it was really hard to get off. I had to put all my weight into it, and when it finally came out I immediately noticed how messed up it was. Big chunk taken out of the top threads. I'm wondering if this happened when I took my truck to a shop a few years ago when my shifter broke off and I wasn't in the mood to mess with it. I don't know, but I'm definitely not putting it back in.
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