Radiator Hose Pressure
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Anchorage
Radiator Hose Pressure
My 1988 F150 has the main upper radiator hose that is hot and full of coolant and it seems ready to burst after the truck has been running for a little while. Is there an issue with the thermostat?
I filled the reservior and the radiator with coolant.
There is heat in the cab from the heater, but I don't run it on high, and usually on mix not fully defrost.
I had to tighten the hose clamps because of the pressure releasing coolant onto the ground.
The hose is the upper left (as you look into the engine well) to the thermostat housing.
Is this normal? Or a symptom of a problem?
Thanks.
I filled the reservior and the radiator with coolant.
There is heat in the cab from the heater, but I don't run it on high, and usually on mix not fully defrost.
I had to tighten the hose clamps because of the pressure releasing coolant onto the ground.
The hose is the upper left (as you look into the engine well) to the thermostat housing.
Is this normal? Or a symptom of a problem?
Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
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From: Oregon
In addition to the pressure cap, I've had old/cheap hoses do that and they'll sometimes suck in and collapse when they cool off after high pressure.
I bet it's the pressure cap too. and at least a good place to start.
You don't need that hose blowing apart or off in this weather.
I bet it's the pressure cap too. and at least a good place to start.
You don't need that hose blowing apart or off in this weather.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
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From: Oregon
Israel makes some of the finest machine parts so maybe it's a good one.
Also gets hot there too.
I got a stovepipe damper for $2.99, cast iron, chromed shaft with a spring and washer...made in china..for 3 bucks?
how do they do that?
(just killing time while yer truck cools off)
press on the springs on each cap and see if they're different.
wonder why they have no pressure rating?
maybe they're 'solid' and release pressure from somewhere else into the recovery tank? idk
new used one from a junkyard?
are you losing coolant? hi pressure from head gasket? prob not.
ok, it's prob cool now.
check the caps against each other and see if you can tell a difference in the spring pressure/resistance
Also gets hot there too.
I got a stovepipe damper for $2.99, cast iron, chromed shaft with a spring and washer...made in china..for 3 bucks?
how do they do that?
(just killing time while yer truck cools off)
press on the springs on each cap and see if they're different.
wonder why they have no pressure rating?
maybe they're 'solid' and release pressure from somewhere else into the recovery tank? idk
new used one from a junkyard?
are you losing coolant? hi pressure from head gasket? prob not.
ok, it's prob cool now.
check the caps against each other and see if you can tell a difference in the spring pressure/resistance
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 43
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From: Anchorage
Thanks. The springs are similar. Losing coolant somewhere...can't really tell where. The reservoir was filled now it's empty. It's a new cap from a parts store.
I know, if China shut down, America wouldn't know what to do...
I know, if China shut down, America wouldn't know what to do...
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
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From: Oregon
It took me at leat 10 tries and a week to get all the air out of my straight 6.
Had to park it on a hill so the rad cap was as high as possible, heater hoses weighed down so they were lower.
Heater control on full high and I still hear water running thru the heater core.
I'd fill it cold with the cap off until it expanded and overflowed then capped it.
x10
Does your exhaust smell like antifreeze?
is your oil pretty or does it look like chocolate milk?
There are many spifft magical 'block sealers' that will plug weeping head gaskets etc and will last for years.
Just pours into the cooling system and doesn't plug anything important for some reason.
I bet the search key on here will pop up a hundred comments on cooling system sealers.
We used to check the radiators with exhaust sniffers used for tailpipe emissions, not sure if they even exist anymore.
or some sort of chemical that tells if there are exhaust/combustion gasses in the radiator too.
turns it bule or green or red or something.
Compression test might tell you something but I doubt it if it's a samll leak.
wishing you the best of luck.
We're all on your side
Had to park it on a hill so the rad cap was as high as possible, heater hoses weighed down so they were lower.
Heater control on full high and I still hear water running thru the heater core.
I'd fill it cold with the cap off until it expanded and overflowed then capped it.
x10
Does your exhaust smell like antifreeze?
is your oil pretty or does it look like chocolate milk?
There are many spifft magical 'block sealers' that will plug weeping head gaskets etc and will last for years.
Just pours into the cooling system and doesn't plug anything important for some reason.
I bet the search key on here will pop up a hundred comments on cooling system sealers.
We used to check the radiators with exhaust sniffers used for tailpipe emissions, not sure if they even exist anymore.
or some sort of chemical that tells if there are exhaust/combustion gasses in the radiator too.
turns it bule or green or red or something.
Compression test might tell you something but I doubt it if it's a samll leak.
wishing you the best of luck.
We're all on your side
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Freshman User
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From: Anchorage
Exhaust is normal. Oil is normal. I do hear a little gurgling in the block when I turn engine off. I got sealant today, will add it to the coolant soon. Thanks. I did talk to a guy about air in the block. His mechanic 'trick' is to drill a small hole in the flat area (no larger than 3/64ths) of the thermostat casing, which allows air to escape at all times and purge itself from the system. Once I try the sealant, I'll look at something else.
Does a thermostat stop working from being overheated without coolant surrounding it? If there was low coolant and the thermostat wasn't covered?
How accurate is the thermometer in the cab on the dash? Can that be replaced? It's always seemed to be running cool, even in the summer.
What about the water pump? How can I tell if that is going bad?
Thanks...
Will
Does a thermostat stop working from being overheated without coolant surrounding it? If there was low coolant and the thermostat wasn't covered?
How accurate is the thermometer in the cab on the dash? Can that be replaced? It's always seemed to be running cool, even in the summer.
What about the water pump? How can I tell if that is going bad?
Thanks...
Will
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
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From: Oregon
Exhaust is normal. Oil is normal. I do hear a little gurgling in the block when I turn engine off.
There are at least 30 of us on here who hear running water and can't bleed it out and NO problems because of it.
I got sealant today, will add it to the coolant soon. Thanks. I did talk to a guy about air in the block. His mechanic 'trick' is to drill a small hole in the flat area (no larger than 3/64ths) of the thermostat casing, which allows air to escape at all times and purge itself from the system.
Any hole is a leak.
Best to get one of those 'flush n' fill' stupid things for your cooling system for 3 bucks. It's a plastic "T" fitting that goes in your heater hose and can be hooked to a garden hose but is actually a perfect high point air bleeder that can be closed off.
Once I try the sealant, I'll look at something else.
Does a thermostat stop working from being overheated without coolant surrounding it? If there was low coolant and the thermostat wasn't covered?
Well? The spring should move with water OR steam but that's a good question.
I'm gonna try that with a t-stat in an oven.
I usually boil them in a coffee can t make sure they open...even NEW ones.
How accurate is the thermometer in the cab on the dash? Can that be replaced? It's always seemed to be running cool, even in the summer.
EVERYONE calls these gauges no better than idiot lights.
I used a laser pointer temp thing and the head by the t stat housing was only 175 and would NOT get any hotter even with the stat closed and top hose cold..let it run for another 1/2 hr and it finally started to warm up.
NOT uncommon.
There are also 30 of us here who's fords will not never no how ever heat up and some have taken their fans off.
Impossible to believe, I know.
Mine will run for 1/2 hr at 40 degrees f outside and the top hose never gets hot, well it will after 1/2 hr when the thermostat finally opens.
What about the water pump? How can I tell if that is going bad?
It usually leaks or seizes up and stops spinning, smoking the belt.
The search key on these topics will astound you.
like
"my truck won't heat up"
or
"running water noises"
Thanks...
Will
There are at least 30 of us on here who hear running water and can't bleed it out and NO problems because of it.
I got sealant today, will add it to the coolant soon. Thanks. I did talk to a guy about air in the block. His mechanic 'trick' is to drill a small hole in the flat area (no larger than 3/64ths) of the thermostat casing, which allows air to escape at all times and purge itself from the system.
Any hole is a leak.
Best to get one of those 'flush n' fill' stupid things for your cooling system for 3 bucks. It's a plastic "T" fitting that goes in your heater hose and can be hooked to a garden hose but is actually a perfect high point air bleeder that can be closed off.
Once I try the sealant, I'll look at something else.
Does a thermostat stop working from being overheated without coolant surrounding it? If there was low coolant and the thermostat wasn't covered?
Well? The spring should move with water OR steam but that's a good question.
I'm gonna try that with a t-stat in an oven.
I usually boil them in a coffee can t make sure they open...even NEW ones.
How accurate is the thermometer in the cab on the dash? Can that be replaced? It's always seemed to be running cool, even in the summer.
EVERYONE calls these gauges no better than idiot lights.
I used a laser pointer temp thing and the head by the t stat housing was only 175 and would NOT get any hotter even with the stat closed and top hose cold..let it run for another 1/2 hr and it finally started to warm up.
NOT uncommon.
There are also 30 of us here who's fords will not never no how ever heat up and some have taken their fans off.
Impossible to believe, I know.
Mine will run for 1/2 hr at 40 degrees f outside and the top hose never gets hot, well it will after 1/2 hr when the thermostat finally opens.
What about the water pump? How can I tell if that is going bad?
It usually leaks or seizes up and stops spinning, smoking the belt.
The search key on these topics will astound you.
like
"my truck won't heat up"
or
"running water noises"
Thanks...
Will
Great, now this says my msg is too short and won't send it
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
It could be a vacuum leak in the brake booster
Goes it blow baaad smoke when you hit the brakesa and it stalls?
There might also be a 99 cent check valve in the brake vac booster gone bad.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Oddly enough, it's been working for 10 years with 5 month non stop fires every winter.
I simply do not undertstand.