E85 Mix with Veggie oil???
Now I change my fuel filter freqently and live in TX and don't do this if the temp drops below 50deg F. I also use Lucas upper cylinder lube and cleaner on a regular basis. So if you try this and it detroys or damages your engine, you voluntarily chose to do this!!
OK, MY question.
Could E85 be sustituded for regular unleaded gasoline without seal failures or swelling causing leaks? I'm not a chemist, but it would not be run full strength (E85) through the fuel system. Its cheaper than gasoline, but is it worth the savings of having to replace all the o-rings in the fuel system?
Thoughts, comments, welcome.
Gasoline will raise the combustion temperature. This might or might not reduce carbon deposits in the cylinder. This also might or might not overheat the injector nozzle enough to cause coking on the nozzle. That’s a clogged injector tip in layman’s terms. The fuel being injected is the only thing that cools the nozzle. Diesel fuel has a lower combustion temperature than gasoline. The fuel injectors depend on the fuel burning at the correct rate and temperature for a long life. If the combustion temperature is raised long enough, the gums and varnishes in gasoline will start to cook right in the fuel injector and turn into carbon. These microscopic carbon particles will abrade the nozzle. High combustion temperatures alone will shorten fuel injector life, gasoline makes the problem worse.
For the entire article, click:
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/m...and_diesel.htm
Be very cautious with E85, since it is 85% ethanol. VO can only absorb about 8% ethanol. RUG containing about 10% is a better choice for thinning/anti-gelling vo.
I do not use E85 for the reasons stated. I do use RUG.
What is your fuel conversion system composed of? Mine is in my signature.
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Ethanol today is utilized as an alternative fuel for it can be blended with regular gasoline. It increases octane and improves the emission quality of burnt gasoline. Ethanol can be blended with gasoline to produce alternative transportation fuels like E85, a blend of 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline.
The oxidation of ethanol can form ethanal such as acetaldehyde, an organic chemical compound present in coffee, fresh bread, and fruits. Ethanol can be oxidized with acidified Sodium Dichromate (Na2Cr2O7), or with acidified potassium permanganate (KMnO4), or with acidified Potassium Dichromate (K2Cr2O7). If ethanol is excessively oxidized, it can produce ethanolic acid (acetic acid), a chemical compound responsible for giving the vinegar its pungent smell and sour taste.
Another component of E85 is gasoline or petroleum. Gasoline is usually utilized as fuel in internal combustion engines and the only known establishments who produce gasoline are oil refineries. The regular gasoline is made up of hydrocarbons with between 5-12 carbon atoms in a molecule. Iso-octane or benzene enhance gasoline to add octane ratings, the most relevant feature of gasoline. Octane ring measures the gasoline's resistant spark-ignition internal combustion engines.
One gasoline type that is utilized in producing E85 is the unleaded gasoline. Studies show that unleaded gasoline has at least 15 hazardous chemicals present in different amounts from 5%-35% by volume of gasoline. Among the dangerous chemicals are benzene, toluene, naphthalene, trimethybenzene, and MTBE.
Combine that with higher CP's and advanced timing from a fuel with a flash point up to 200* lower than diesel and you are playing double Russian Roulette. If you really think blending crap and calling it 'fuel' for your engine is a good idea - you should do some reading about DSE. I have personally met a bunch of folks who learned this the hard way. PSD guys were sometimes lucky to only lose injectors, but the D-max and 24v guys usually ended up with a new engine.
Do you REALLY want to save money on fuel? Do you want your engine to last as long as it was designed for? Then do a 'proper' VO conversion that will adequately heat the VO before injecting it into the engine and provides a complete 'purge' of the VO from engine before shutdown. NEVER inject cold VO into a cold combustion chamber and only put dry (read: dewatered) and filtered oil into your trucks VO tank.
This concoction you describe is also very susceptible to separating in your fuel tank. The heavier animal fats, hydrogenated oil and emulsified water will settle out and the RUG/E85 can 'float' on top of the diesel. Beyond that, E85 has a voracious affinity for water. A little water in an E85-powered car causes little problem - but putting water with your cocktail will create an emulsion that will not pass thru any fuel filter.
I'm just a dum redneck, but I do have almost 250k trouble-free miles burning SVO in my 'converted' PSD's. Lets just say I recovered my 'investment' a loooooong time ago!!

I like to say "Choose wisely, or PLEASE post pics of the carnage!!"

Meanwhile, lots of good info on this subject at frybrid.com and a forum full of PSD's on the high cholesterol diet at biofuelstechnologies.com
...Do you want your engine to last as long as it was designed for? Then do a 'proper' VO conversion...
...concoction you describe is also very susceptible to separating...
...almost 250k trouble-free miles burning SVO in my 'converted' PSD's...
Seriously, I'm a dum redneck - although I did get to disassemble my engine after 120k miles on VO, and there was no sign it had ever seen anything but dead dinosaur fuel. I have also met several people that used 'alternative' fuels that ruined perfectly good engines (there are LOTS of them out there!!).Redundant (2) tank system segregated by check valves. Frybrid In-Tank HE (primarily heats small quantity of oil). Tube-In-Hose coolant heated fuel lines, FASS HPFP, coolant heated VO filter and a 16plate FPHE (flat plate heat exchanger). I use an aux coolant pump to boost coolant flow thru VO loop.
I switch to VO at 130* engine oil temp and see 180-200* VO before the heads. I have a purge valve that allows me to flush the VO out of heads with diesel before shutting engine down. NO cold VO in a cold engine - ever. Not even a 'blend'...
I pre-filter all of my WVO by pumping it thru a screen/strainer (200mic?) and letting it settle for 2 weeks to 2 months. I used to use a modified water heater to 'Heat & Settle' the oil to finish removing the water - then push that thru 10mic and 2mic FUEL filters into trucks. Now I have a gravity-fed bowl type centrifuge after 'pre-settle' and pump thru 2mic filter for the hell of it.



