hey guys, In my auto shop class we have to do a lab on valve grinding, (grind a valve and show him)

so instead of waisting my time on some scrap valve, I want to do the valves on my 300. we also grind the head so the valve meets properly.


what I think I will need to buy to get this done is
head gasket
valve stem gaskets
intake gasket
exhaust gasket
lots of degreaser to clean all the sludge
break in oil
new oil 5w30 as it is still cold out
some more coolant
oil filter



I plan to while I am at it clean the exhaust ports, clean the combustion chambers and clean the intake ports

should I get the head milled flat again (dont think it is warped)

1985 f150 300 I6 159k KM T19 transmission.
the truck was abused by my dad for 5 years and then sat for 5 my grandpa who was the original owner took very good care of it.

any thing I am missing or should do while I am at it?

 

A "valve grind" or "head gasket" set should include what you need. Oil Filter. Check valve guide wear, knurl if needed. 3 angle grind on the seats and don't forget the interference angle.

 

can you please explain how to check the valve guide wear and what knurl means?

also I dont know if we can do a 3 angle grind (I do have a picture of what angles to use for the 3 angle grind though) what is the advantages of this?

and final question what is the interference angle?

sorry if these are bumb questions, but I would prefer to ask then to later learn O **** I should have done that

 

There should be specs avail for guide wear in the cyl head section of shop manual, Basically, with springs off the valve open it about 1/2 " and see how much slop is there. I use knurling as a "poor man's" substitute guide replacement. The knurling tool cuts threads into the guide and then re-size or ream to fit. The knurls also provide an extra surface for oil to stick to. If valves are too sloppy knurling won't help and guide replacement is needed. Interference angle: grind valve at say 45 degrees seat at 44. You don't want the seat too wide so say 30 degs at top, 75 or 60 at bottom. This narrows the seat. Use "prussian blue" to check the fit. Valve grinding compound shouldn't be used.

 

ok thanks now I understand, I will be sure to check that when I am in there.

i will see what we can do in the shop (old machines and the like) we are sort of limited for grinding the head as we only have 1 stone and its a fixed angle.


any recommendations of porting and polishing? get the head milled flat again even if its not warped yes/no?
any modifications to the combustion chamber (sand it smooth after cleaning?)

 

Matt, check out a site called reincarnation automotive. He has a dang good port guide. Also, I'm not an engine tech but it seems somewhere that one needs to leave some friction because of keeping turbulence for the fuel to be suspended. Something along those lines. I can't really recall because i've read pry about 100 threads over the last week on all sorts of truck related topics lol.

 

If all that is available to you is one angle stone, leave the head on your truck and use whats available through your class. You cant do a proper valve grind like that.

 

Ditto Bashby. If you don't have the equipment leave it alone.... try Engine Building Tools, Engine Builders Supply | GOODSON Tools & Supplies for info on rebuilding tools. I get my valve grinding stuff from them.

 

I agree.

And, why practice on your own vehicle? Learn this stuff and make mistakes on junk
parts, not something that needs to return to service.

 

Forgot to mention that a lot of shops are using carbide reamers instead of stones.

 

so what I'm getting is take the head and valves to a shop and get them to do it.
how much do you guys think that would cost?
(and becouse I live in Canada I double that cost automatically)

I will probobly wait then until I get the roller rockers. do it all in 1 big change over.

 

3-angle-drawing by matthewhidasi, on Flickr

finally found the 3 angle picture

where it says top cut 30, valve seat 45 and bottom cut 60 we can only do 1 angle as we only have 1 stone.

 

If it aint broke, dont fix it. If you're worried about it, do a leakdown test and see if you have any leaky valves. You could spend all that time and $$ and have it run exactly like it does now. Save your money for when something actually goes wrong (it will, you know!)

 

ya It will and at the wrong time to
how do you do a leakdown test? it sounds simple enough.

 

Its similar, but the reverse of a compression test. A compression test has a piece screwed into the plug hole and it notes the compression of the cylinder. A leakdown test is conducted in the same fashion ie screwed into the plug hole, but then the leakdown test uses compressed air and measures the amount going into the cylinder and the amount that escapes.