When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thanks RRranch.....I'll pick up a second telescoping magnet tomorrow and spend the afternoon trying to ****** it out of there. Yes, it's been a crappy weekend actually....shoulda had this done Friday afternoon but it's been one headache after another.
Thanks RRranch...I'll get a second telescoping magnet and go through her good tomorrow afternoon. Can you post some links where you found the header for sale?
Who is Clay and how do I contact him? I'm a newbie...
I only know about the Ford dealer for them. Or Parts guy ed. I heard of people finding them on ebay too but that won't do you any good.
Hopefully it is sitting next to the drain plug. Maybe drag it to the right side then grab it from that hole on the left with a long magnet. Try to get the end so you can get it through the hole. This just sucks.
That's not the same one that this poster is having a problem with. The one in that picture is the oil filter relief/bypass valve. It's purpose is to relieve pressure in the event of a clogged oil filter.
The other one, that is the problem on this thread, is the oil pressure relief valve. It's on the engine side of the rear cooler header and relieves oil pressure off the low pressure oil system back to the sump. The first year and a half or so there were no snap rings on either of them but Ford did finally wise up to it.
DVcrocket, I have been hesitant to mention this because for me in the past it's opened up another can of worms with leaks but you can get it easily through the hole where the dipstick goes in. Just get some big channel locks to remove that nut, take off the pipe clamp up top and move the dipstick out of the way. Just make real sure you have the o ring back the way it was when you tighten it all back up. It will probably leak unless you replace the o ring but it's better than having parts floating around in the pan. That's a much bigger hole to work with is the only reason I mention it.
That's not the same one that this poster is having a problem with. The one in that picture is the oil filter relief/bypass valve. It's purpose is to relieve pressure in the event of a clogged oil filter.
The other one, that is the problem on this thread, is the oil pressure relief valve. It's on the engine side of the rear cooler header and relieves oil pressure off the low pressure oil system back to the sump. The first year and a half or so there were no snap rings on either of them but Ford did finally wise up to it.
DVcrocket, I have been hesitant to mention this because for me in the past it's opened up another can of worms with leaks but you can get it easily through the hole where the dipstick goes in. Just get some big channel locks to remove that nut, take off the pipe clamp up top and move the dipstick out of the way. Just make real sure you have the o ring back the way it was when you tighten it all back up. It will probably leak unless you replace the o ring but it's better than having parts floating around in the pan. That's a much bigger hole to work with is the only reason I mention it.
Brad.Here is what RRanch is talking about on the dipstick flange.
It is a whole new ballgame.I have done this and fixed my leak.It is kinda a butt squeezing job beings you can drop the inside part of the flange in the oil pan.It can be done but you want to be careful.If you drop that inner flange,you will be fishing again.
Well, all I can do is try. I'm extremely frustrated at myself for screwing this up. When riverrat sent me the pictures in my last post, I didn't look close enough to see that the spools were raised a bit meaning that the spring was underneath....that's why you can't see it in the first pic. If I'd had more mechanic sense, I'd known instinctively it couldn't go that way. Painful way to learn but it's a mistake that I'm sure I won't repeat.
Any chance one of you has a link with pictures for the dipstick flange (may need to be in crayon for me at this point)? It sounds pretty straightforward but I'm a bit gunshy at the moment.
At the first of this thread you will see how one person fixed the leak.I use this for general observation because there is another way to fix the leak without using the goop.Not saying that is a bad way to fix.
You must be very careful to not drop that inner flange in the pan.
I used a 50 cal bore brush to hold the inner flange.I had a wire safety on the brush so it could not fall in.
You need to have all of your tools and parts laying close to you if you do not have a helper.
Guzzles kit has everything you need.Changing the nut is important as well because they are puter(soft) in material and can egg.
I've read up on the thread riverrat posted and this looks like a job I can handle....ok, no laughing after the fix I've got myself in. Local Ford house don't stock all items but the breakdown is this....flange nut $19.47, dipstick o-ring $5.29, inner o-ring $3.20. Will order these today or tomorrow and fish thru the block until they come in....no way I'm tearing into that until I have the parts in hand and an opportunity to get lucky by the other method.
No luck fishing for the spring. There is no way it would come back thru the block side even if you were lucky enough to snare it. So, I fished around with some wire thru the drain plug but didn't have any luck nor did I even hear any sign I'd nudged it. Does anyone have a picture/diagram of the inside of the drain pan? I suspect it's hung up on the baffle but it'd be nice to see how the baffle is configured to give me a better idea as to how to go about fishing for the dang thing. Makes me wonder that since I had the spring pointed the wrong way when trying to re-install if it fell out of the header before I got it lined up with the block and it never made it into the pan at all. It's a possibility.....as light as that spring is, I'd have never heard it hit the ground and a spring may not wind up close to where it landed.