i just ran a koeo test on my truck in my sig. i got 111 and then 332. im assuming since the 332 was a later code that its a memory code right?

111 is all systems ok and 332 is my egr valve not opening all the way correct? so is my egr valve ok or not? im confused. im about to go and run the koer test now and see whats up because my check engine light keeps coming on while im driving

 

332 is Isufficient EGR flow detected

 

i just got done doing the koer test and all i got was a 632 code twice. which says its a overdrive cancel switch not changing state. but then it says thats for a e4od and i have a 4r70w?

im not completely sure i did it right though. i waited for the engine light to flash the first time and i floored the gas and then tapped my brake and it started spitting out the codes?

 

I just ran pulled codes on my 93 f150 5.0 today and got the code 33 - EGR valve fault/not closing properly.

 

its a brand new egr valve though? and it said that everything was okay?

 

might be a vacuum leak causing it not to function properly??
try clearing the codes from memory and rerunning the test?

 

ill check the lines tomorrow in the daylight and try re running the test. the egr valve itself is new and the vaccuum lines probably need to be checked. could it be the sensor or anything else related to the egr valve?

**EDIT**
according to this explorer site it could be the following three things: "EGR, DPEF sensor or EGR Vacuum Solenoid"
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=225115

im not sure if explorers are different codes or not? also what is a DPEF sensor?

 

The 4R70W is electronically controlled like the E4OD, so you will need to press the O/D cancel button on the shift lever after you mash the throttle and tap the brake pedal.

It may be a vacuum supply issue or a problem with the EGR valve vacuum regulator (EVR). If the EGR valve is new, I would not suspect it as being the problem, although you can check to see if it holds vacuum just to be sure.

 

How would i go about checking all of these?

 

Also i know for a fact my od button works so just disregard me ever mentioning that code

 

What is DPFE sensor?

Dpfe sensor is the delta (differential) pressure feedback egr (exhaust gas recirculation) it monitors the pressure on the egr valve to make sure it is working.

Your truck is most likely using a DPFE sensor to measure EGR flow instead of a EVP sensor that measures the physical position of the EGR valve like the earlier model trucks.

I am not 100% sure where it is located on you 1995 5.0L truck but it is on top of the intake probably neat the throttle body or distributor. The DPFE looks like this:



If the EGR is not opening, bad EVR or open vacuum line, it can trigger your code 332. If the EGR is opening it could be triggered by a clogged EGR tube or open/torn silicone hoses leading to/from the EGR tube and DPFE sensor.

I suggest you make sure the vacuum circuit leading to the EGR is intact, then make sure the EVR is opening to allow vacuum to be applied to the EGR valve. From there you need to inspect the EGR tube and lines running to the DPFE sensor. That EGR line is known to crack at the flexible potion of the tube after a period of time.

If you have a EVP sensor on top of the EGR valve then the troubleshooting path is the same, vacuum circuit wise, but the feedback signal is EGR position dependent instead of EGR flow. Here is a photo of an EVP style feedback EGR valve:


Courtesy of FordFuelInjection.com

 

I have the evp on top of mine.

How would i check to see if the egr valve is opening or not?

If i have an evp sensor does that mean i dnt have a dpef sensor?

 

If you have an EVP on top of the EGR valve that means you do not have a DPFE. It's either one or the other. You can check for physcial movement of the EGR valve by applying vacuum directly to the EGR valve. I would also suggest to use a meter to measure the output signal with the EGR valve closed and fully open.

 

Check all your vacuum lines I was getting several codes and having problems with idle. One which was EGr 332 found out most of the vacuum lines were miss-routed. solved 5 different code by routing everything correctly

 

well me and my buddy spent the afternoon outside under neath my hood. i was fooling around with the vacuum line coming off of the egr valve and it snapped! long story short we replaced every single vaccuum line underneath my hood almost except for one or two. it got dark and we ran out of line so its put off until tomorrow.

it seems like someones tried to redo my vacuum lines before and some of them are messed up. i had vaccuum hoses going to places but didnt come back out from anywhere. is there a place that i could get like a schematic of where all they go to? ive got a few strays left i think. also a couple of them ran from one side of the engine bay, back behind the intake between it and the firewall, and back to the other side. we routed some of those over top making it easier to get too and zip tied them