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I had all this info in the 'Taurus fan install' post, but I thought I would post it here under a correct title to make it easier to find for anyone looking.
94--2000 Ford Contour or Mercury Mystique with the 2.5l 24 valve v6 engine.
Reputedly it moves 3400 cfm.
I did this entire install for just under $70, but I already had the Thermo. controller. (under $20 at any a. parts store)
I haven't really had any road time with it yet because my cheapo Sunpro temp gauge went out before the project started. Second one in two years. I just installed an electric Equuis (sp?) gauge, and of course I messed up the sender when I installed it!
I got to have a temp gauge to drive!
Also, the shroud was hanging from the top alone, and so it could vibrate and rattle at the bottom, so I welded up a couple of braces, and riveted a piece of aluminum stock into the oem supports. Here is a photo.
looks like when the key is off the fan is off .so the new cars have the fans run off the hot so that they can run untill the temp is satisfied help cooling the system off,....well just saying,,.. anyway just thought what if a hand-off-auto switch was in the cab just in case the probe malfunction and it is only a few more wires to the relays so they can be of a light gauge also,just my two cents, looking good
Last edited by wasowski; Feb 24, 2011 at 07:20 PM.
Reason: still learning to proof read
looks like when the key is off the fan is off .so the new cars have the fans run off the hot so that they can run untill the temp is satisfied help cooling the system off,....well just saying,,.. anyway just thought what if a hand-off-auto switch was in the cab just in case the probe malfunction and it is only a few more wires to the relays so they can be of a light gauge also,just my two cents, looking good
In the schematic, the 'LED' lines are to dash lights that tell me if the fans are running. If you want the fans to run when the key is off, then run the controller + to the battery.
With your system you can wire it any way you want. That's the beauty of buying/building your own. What you see is how I wanted mine.
In the schematic, the 'LED' lines are to dash lights that tell me if the fans are running. If you want the fans to run when the key is off, then run the controller + to the battery.
With your system you can wire it any way you want. That's the beauty of buying/building your own. What you see is how I wanted mine.
i was just trying to be helpfull not saying what is the right way or wrong,sorry
Did you use 12 or 10 gauge wire for the 12v positive? And what's the bright green thing between the relays? In your schematic you have two 30 amp fuses (one for each 12v hot) coming from the battery but in the pic it looks like only one circuit breaker. I may end up going with electric fans so I just wanted to make sure I'm clear on the wiring.
Did you use 12 or 10 gauge wire for the 12v positive? And what's the bright green thing between the relays? In your schematic you have two 30 amp fuses (one for each 12v hot) coming from the battery but in the pic it looks like only one circuit breaker. I may end up going with electric fans so I just wanted to make sure I'm clear on the wiring.
Thanks!
Good eye. In the photo I had used a circuit breaker I had laying around, but since converted it to a 30 amp fuse. That is the green thing in the photo.
I used two 12 ga. wires to batt., one to each relay.
Ok, so that's just a big blade fuse with quick connects hooked to the blades? I see, thanks.
I can get electric fans from the U-Auto-Pull-It for $18 bucks.
They usually try to charge double for dual fans. Take some fuses too when you get the fan. You just need to trim the contacts down with some tin snips so they'll fit in the connectors.
I have an interesting problem since I did the conversion, and I wonder if you guys could help me out. Before I had the adjustable thermo control, with the radiator probe, mounted beside the radiator with the with the tube to the probe coiled up right there, and it worked great.
During the install I moved it up by the firewall, and ran the tube along the fender to the radiator. Now it doesn't shut off so easily as before. I wonder if the tube is picking up the heat from the header. I mean it is prob. 10" away, but could that affect it at a stop?
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