Need a glue
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Need a glue
Yes, I need a really good glue to stick and keep down 9" square tiles on a steel deck. Apparently what I could find two years ago hasn't lasted as all the tiles are now loose. It wasn't even thats easy finding that Armstrong glue in home supply stores as many employees shrugged their shoulder. I know there has to be something because the tile laid by the Navy in the 60's is still solid as a rock.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 3
From: Sapulpa OK
You might want to post this down in the "garage & workshop" forum. There are some pretty knowledgable guys down there Mike.
And I do agree with you. There must be something that works or our Navy wouldn't have used so much tile on their ships.
And I do agree with you. There must be something that works or our Navy wouldn't have used so much tile on their ships.
FTE Legend
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 56,542
Likes: 0
From: In my own world
use contact cement. use a paint roller to apply it to both surfaces. let dry to a tacky touch, where it pulls like a string when you touch it. be sure tile is where you want it when you stick it down, you cannot pull it back up once placed. that is what, and how I use it on running board rubber.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 9,176
Likes: 4
From: Western Central NV
The strongest glue I have found that will stay flexible or not harden like Liquid nail is PL Glue. It is a poly glue that is super strong & stays flexible. You can buy it at Home Depot.
Craig
Craig
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 13,589
Likes: 2
From: NW burbs of chicago
we use this for hardwood flooring Lumber Liquidators: Bostik's Best Adhesive
its strong as hell, if we have to replace a board after install, we have to chisel it out
its strong as hell, if we have to replace a board after install, we have to chisel it out
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
I'll have to check out stuff like Liquid Nails and PL Glue. The Bostik's is for wood floors and like I said this was a steel "deck". Must be a lot of Army and Air Force guys around here. I say bulkhead, you say wall... well you get the idea
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
if you really want to find the right adhesive, you need to understand what you want it to accomplish. Tell us about your deck. What kind of steel? How thick? How large? Does it have provisions for expansion/contraction or does the adhesive need to be able to deal with that? What temperature and humidity will it need to deal with? What have you tried so far? Has there been any treatment to the steel deck? Was any and all old contaminants removed prior to adhesive installation?
Also, what kind of tiles are you trying to stick down and are they rated for the application you're attempting to use them in? Look at the rate of expansion/contraction of the steel compared to the tile you're wanting to use. If direct sun causes the deck to heat up and the steel to expand at 3 times the rate of the tile, then you're going to have a problem regardless of the adhesive.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
I've applied a lot of *sheet* vinyl roofing to all types of substrates (DensDek, concrete, wood, steel)
We generally use a primer on metal and then the contact adhesive.
There are roller applied *systems* available from most of the major rubber manufacturers; Goodyear, Carlisle, Uniroyal, Firestone, et al.
Even if you decide to use a trowel applied mastic it's still important to go back over it with a weighted roller.
I think you should ask the manufacturer of the product you're installing for their recommendations.
Products are developed for particular applications, there's no use in second guessing the pros.
Be sure to tell the representative of any unusual conditions such as washdown with solvents or alkalies/acids , or exposure to something like hydraulic fluid.
We generally use a primer on metal and then the contact adhesive.
There are roller applied *systems* available from most of the major rubber manufacturers; Goodyear, Carlisle, Uniroyal, Firestone, et al.
Even if you decide to use a trowel applied mastic it's still important to go back over it with a weighted roller.
I think you should ask the manufacturer of the product you're installing for their recommendations.
Products are developed for particular applications, there's no use in second guessing the pros.
Be sure to tell the representative of any unusual conditions such as washdown with solvents or alkalies/acids , or exposure to something like hydraulic fluid.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 599
Likes: 0
From: PA
That other poster was right about the PL premium. When I built my shop I tried a few brands of construction adhesive. I glued the same sized pieces of 2x4 to 8" block, all pried right off. The PL broke the block. Best,CB
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Well this is what I can tell you. The steel deck, 1/4" thick, is on the inside of the ship. Temperature of this deck may range from a low of 50 degrees to a high of 75 degrees maximum if ever. You would be amazed how constant the internal temperature of the ship is surrounded by water and with that much steel.
The deck initially had water leakage so that whole mess had to be cleaned up down to a bare deck. I did paint the deck with a rustproofing paint. The tile is US Navy tiles removed from the store rooms of the mothball ships in Suisun. That would be manufacturing back into the 60's and 70's. The tile is not a flexible type as it is easy to crack in half. Looks just like what is elsewhere on the ship so it probably is an asbestos type.
Shots below show the before and then the tile used after. The original glue was made by Armstrong from Lowes and I didn't find it to have much in the way of tackiness to begin with.
The deck initially had water leakage so that whole mess had to be cleaned up down to a bare deck. I did paint the deck with a rustproofing paint. The tile is US Navy tiles removed from the store rooms of the mothball ships in Suisun. That would be manufacturing back into the 60's and 70's. The tile is not a flexible type as it is easy to crack in half. Looks just like what is elsewhere on the ship so it probably is an asbestos type.
Shots below show the before and then the tile used after. The original glue was made by Armstrong from Lowes and I didn't find it to have much in the way of tackiness to begin with.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 38
From: EXTREME southwest CT
W.W. Henry makes this mastic for Vinyl Composition Tile that it says works over steel and stainless
HENRY® 130 Thin Spread Floor Tile Adhesive
You say it's all interior so I don't assume the tile sees much salt water or other corrosive liquids.
HENRY® 130 Thin Spread Floor Tile Adhesive
You say it's all interior so I don't assume the tile sees much salt water or other corrosive liquids.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
OK, that helps narrow it down. I'd suggest you avoid Home Depot / Lowes, etc and deal with a commercial / industrial wholesaler to get access to better products. Henry does make some good stuff for certain applications. They also have a tech line that you can call to get advice or suggestions on which of their products might work.
When the Armstrong adhesive failed, what was the mode of failure? Did the adhesive come off the pain? Did the tile pop off but leave the adhesive still bonded to the paint? Did the tile start to crack or bubble up?
When the Armstrong adhesive failed, what was the mode of failure? Did the adhesive come off the pain? Did the tile pop off but leave the adhesive still bonded to the paint? Did the tile start to crack or bubble up?