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Alright, my left front brake has been dragging. I took off the wheel, and tried to release the caliper by opening the bleed port, this didn't release it, so i figured the caliper was bad. Just replaced the caliper, still the same problem. It also seems odd because the dragging seems to pulsate, similar to the feeling of a warped rotor. i dont think the rotor is warped since it is brand new, but i guess thats a possibility? ANY advice/help would be greatly appreciated.
The caliper won't fully open on its own. Loosening the cap on the master cylinder and carefully prying the caliper open far enough to free it from the rotor will let you remove it and use a C-clamp to fully seat the piston. Go slow and check the M/C for overflow periodically.
Did you bleed the entire system after you replaced the caliper or just that caliper? Did you replace brake pads as well or just put the old ones back on? If the old ones went back on, the problem may be the rotor or the wear on the pads. It takes very little to warp a rotor especially if a caliper was dragging a bit before you replaced it.
The m/c does overflow, and I only bled the one caliper. Another weird thing- it seems to not drag in reverse. When I drive forward after reversing though, there's a *pop* then it starts dragging. but maybe it just feels like it isn't dragging in reverse because of the low gearing?
Last edited by USAFCrewChief; Feb 24, 2011 at 03:12 PM.
Reason: added info
If a caliper is dragging you will get steering pull to that side... short of that happening, the problem is something else.
soooooo should i try replacing brake lines next? is there any possibilty of a bad m/c or bad m/c cap seal? I have no exp. so idk if theres anyway to figure this out short of throwing parts at it
I think you have a friction problem with the area the caliper is riding on. The caliper rides on grooves and a track to allow them to float. The actual caliper piston is controled by the fluid in the system, but there is always a little light drag on the rotors. The caliper assembly needs to be free of rust and burs. Disassemble and wire brush then lightly polish all grooves and tracks. Do the same for any bolts that pass through the caliper. Lightly lube then reassemble.
I think you have a friction problem with the area the caliper is riding on. The caliper rides on grooves and a track to allow them to float. The actual caliper piston is controled by the fluid in the system, but there is always a little light drag on the rotors. The caliper assembly needs to be free of rust and burs. Disassemble and wire brush then lightly polish all grooves and tracks. Do the same for any bolts that pass through the caliper. Lightly lube then reassemble.
Ahhh so the "wedge" type thing that retains the caliper should be lubed? Could possibly be the problem. Thank you.
I replaced the master cylinder and booster with a pre assembled/pre adjusted pushrod unit and it solved the problem. Not sure what the problem was specifically haha but i'm glad its solved. Unfortunately now the beast decided to run like crap, so thats great. It has a holley 4160 swapped onto it so im going to rebuild it and see if that is the issue, since the cap/rotor, module and plugs all appear to be recently replaced. Thanks for the help guys.