Fog Lamp Overide??
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Mountainair
Fog Lamp Overide??
Has anyone figured out a way to overide the fog lamps to work alone and/or also stay on with the high beams?
I realize the idea of fog lamps is not to be used with high beams due to reflection, but the option would be nice when simply a need for additional light is wanted on the road. Thanks.
Regards,
Tom
I realize the idea of fog lamps is not to be used with high beams due to reflection, but the option would be nice when simply a need for additional light is wanted on the road. Thanks.
Regards,
Tom
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Worth, TX
Get one of these -
BriteBox
Innova Design & Distributing, Inc. - The Brite Box, Bulbzilla / Fogzilla, Diesel Turbo Lifesaver, Eclipse Sun Shade
I installed one on my 2006 last week and it is awesome. It allows the low beams and fog lights to stay on when the high beams are activated. It has a separate relay and fuse so that it doesn't pull to much current through the stock wiring.
BriteBox
Innova Design & Distributing, Inc. - The Brite Box, Bulbzilla / Fogzilla, Diesel Turbo Lifesaver, Eclipse Sun Shade
I installed one on my 2006 last week and it is awesome. It allows the low beams and fog lights to stay on when the high beams are activated. It has a separate relay and fuse so that it doesn't pull to much current through the stock wiring.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 32
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From: Mountainair
T A&M;
Thanks for the info. I checked their site, and no application is listed for the 2011. I sent off an e-mail inquiry to see if they have one for my new truck. What did you pay for your set-up? Thanks.
Regards,
Tom
Thanks for the info. I checked their site, and no application is listed for the 2011. I sent off an e-mail inquiry to see if they have one for my new truck. What did you pay for your set-up? Thanks.
Regards,
Tom
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,600
Likes: 84
I remember reading somewhere around here that the fog logs are now controlled by the BCM which was different than the older trucks.
Now this could be the case for the past 10 years but IDK off the top of my head.
Someone here does.
Now this could be the case for the past 10 years but IDK off the top of my head.
Someone here does.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
I had the BriteBox on my 2005 F250; was one of the best upgrades I did to the truck. I too sent an email to them asking about 2011 applicability. It might not be straight forward; I have heard that the BCM checks current draw and for open circuits on powered loads, which could complicate matters in wiring up the fogs and low beams to turn on with the highs.
Steve
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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Steve
"What Ford is doing with the lights is no mystery to us. A lot of manufacturers are using FET driven systems with PWM for DRL and the systems are all very similar.
The 2011 truck needs a F8.FLC.5P kit. If you happen to be upgrading trucks and have the SF8.FLC.5B for the 2008 - 2010 truck, you can send it in for conversion. There are a lot of parts we can reuse to make a F8.FLC.5P. The cost to upgrade is $85.00 + freight, so it is a lot cheaper than a new unit. The F8.FLC.5P is an existing part number that fits various model year Explorers, Expeditions and F150's. The part was introduced in 2007.
If you don't have a kit to upgrade, you can buy a new one at our factory store or can do a will call at our facility if you live in close. To buy on the web, simply go to this page and buy the Brite Box by part number:BuyBriteBox.com ? Brite Box, Brite Box with Fog Light Control - FLC, Brite Box Fogster! - Look up Brite Box applications - Innova Design & Dist. Inc. (909) 971-0000 - Innova Design & Dist. Inc. (909) 971-0000. If you happen to go to the application picker, the 2011 truck is not listed as we need to update that portion of the site.
We don't reprogram the BCM as doing so would probably cause communication or other errors with the other modules in the truck. Additionally, you would have to determine how a reprogram would affect the servicing of the vehicle. Even if one were to successfully reprogram the BCM, the original design was never engineered to power both the highs and lows together for any length of time and then you would have to deal with the laws of unintended consequences. Read on . . . .
Dodge has used the FET/PWM scheme since 2002 in their 1500 trucks and since 2003 in the 2500+ trucks. A short while after we introduced Brite Boxes for these vehicles, some guy modified his "multi function switch (Auto manufacturer term for turn signal / high / low beam stalk) to stay in "flash to pass" mode when high beams were engaged. He then posted all over the internet that you don't need a Brite Box, just modify your truck like I did! Well a short time later, there were posts that the computers were failing (wonder why?). Someone performed a dissection on a failed computer and found that some traces were completely burned off the circuit board."
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 482
Likes: 28
From: Southern Ontario
Ok, this sounds like a great option but I think I am missing something. Running the fogs on with low or high may not be legal but is a great assist and doesn't introduce any additional current loads. Running hi and low together introduces a huge additional current draw not to mention bulb temperatures as both filaments are in the same bulb. So am I missing something in this?
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 685
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
As to the wiring comments - the BriteBox uses independant wiring and relays to power the low beams while the high beams are on, so there is no extra load on the factory wiring. Bulb temp could be an issue, however, I have talked to a couple of folks that have ha the BriteBox installed for years and are still on their original bulbs.
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 482
Likes: 28
From: Southern Ontario
Ok, I buy the vast improvement by having all 3, (low, high, and fog) on at the same time ...... that part is sold. Some vehicles do this stock with 3 separate bulbs. Also the fog could be on with the low or high with no impact on load.
There are 3 leads on the H13 bulb connector; 2 positive and one negative I'm guessing, (no common chassis type grounding). I can see my way to the 2 positive carrying the load but the single connector holds the ground and it would be subject to x2 current load on the connector. Then there is the part of the increase heat load on the bulb and the housing. Just trying to get a handle on the fire potential of this mod.
The cost of $250 may seem a bit high but the 2011 doesnt have the best of lighting and that could be cheap copmpared to hitting a big bambi.
There are 3 leads on the H13 bulb connector; 2 positive and one negative I'm guessing, (no common chassis type grounding). I can see my way to the 2 positive carrying the load but the single connector holds the ground and it would be subject to x2 current load on the connector. Then there is the part of the increase heat load on the bulb and the housing. Just trying to get a handle on the fire potential of this mod.
The cost of $250 may seem a bit high but the 2011 doesnt have the best of lighting and that could be cheap copmpared to hitting a big bambi.
More Turbo
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 610
Likes: 3
If your only talking about the fog lights, you can also do this with just a simple relay or 2. Basically you'd want won with a closed and open poles, then you'd use an upfitter switch to trigger it. Basically when the upfitter switch was off, the relay would allow the fog lights to work factory, and when switched on they would stay on continuously and be powered by a separate circuit.
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