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EGR delete

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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 07:56 AM
  #1  
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nflfreak43
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From: La Vergne, TN
EGR delete

ok guys, need some direction here. ii've already deleted my smog pump, and and fixing to delete the EGR. Got headers got the plug for the header, just need to know how to make the computer think the Valve is closed all the time, like today, aint really got time to wait on getting the kit from RJM injection.

so any ideas...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 09:15 AM
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From: KCMO
fordfuelinjection.com has the answers, some resistors wired into the connectors and it is solved.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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From: La Vergne, TN
thats what i figured... was wondering if there were any other ways...
 
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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From: KCMO
did it to my markVII, no codes!
 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 11:18 AM
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I've been poking around fordfuelinjection.com can't find the info for egr resistors, can you point me in the right direction?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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1965F100
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From: KCMO
THey used to have the info so you could see it, however I think they took it down so they could sell product.
I can't attache the image, and I can't get to my photobucket...so emial me
dan@silverfoxtrans.com
The image I have shows resistor values needed to wire into the EGR connector, two 3.9kohm and one 390ohm. Also 75ohm, 3 watt resistors required to wire into the TAB/TAD/canP/Evr connectors.

I no longer have any of the smog items on my car, and no codes, the wires are even gone
 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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Ryan has the resistors, and the plugs and block off plates.
His are all set up to plug right into the harness, or at the computer depending on weather you want to get rid of all the cable or just the CEL.

Try this page; RJM Injection Tech » EGR Eliminators
 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by nflfreak43
thats what i figured... was wondering if there were any other ways...
Didn't really read through the thread.
You USED to be able to find the proper resistor at any RadioShack.
The value is listed on the RJM site, it's 75ohm 3Watt. (heavy duty for sure)
 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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when i deleted my EGR, all i did what took the egr off the intake manifold, and cut a piece of sheet metal the same shape in the egr, and drilled holes into it, put silicone around it and screwed it back in. i havent had a check engine light, either.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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From: Herman Nebraska
i am really nterested into doin this also my egr tube has already been removed outof the passenger side manifold (due to rust) so i just welded up the plug and put it bac in lol
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 07:13 PM
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From: La Vergne, TN
Originally Posted by fordboy5894
when i deleted my EGR, all i did what took the egr off the intake manifold, and cut a piece of sheet metal the same shape in the egr, and drilled holes into it, put silicone around it and screwed it back in. i havent had a check engine light, either.
i ended up doing that with a Dr. Pepper can... haahha... just didnt have the time to wait on a resister kit etc...
 
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Old Mar 1, 2011 | 07:32 PM
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Even with the kit from him, I get a CEL and a EGR code. He said not guaranteed to keep the light off on all vehicles except the 88-93 mustang.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by nflfreak43
...Got headers got the plug for the header...
where did you get the plug for this? or what size is the plug?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by nflfreak43
i ended up doing that with a Dr. Pepper can... haahha... just didnt have the time to wait on a resister kit etc...
I took the old EGR, cut the base off, welded the hole closed, now its just a flat block off plate.

Now I have to work on the CEL. Not sure if I'll try to make the resistor plug or buy them, or maybe I'll just live with the CEL.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2011 | 03:36 PM
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From: KCMO
you can also break the EGR coil dohicky off the EGR spacheship, just plug it on...it is only looking for the resistive values of the internal parts. I can easily dangle or wrap up with the other wires. Sap with the TAB/TAD/CAN stuff, it doesn;t have to FUNCTION, it just has to have the ohm limit of the internal parts wired...so you can leave the smog devices plugged in, and you will not have any codes, but just make them do nothing.
 
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