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My truck started messing up on me Saturday. It would die for no reason then start up after 3 or 4 cranks. Well today it did it again but this took bout 20 minutes to start. I noticed when it wasnt starting that the Wait To Start light wasnt coming on. Every time it did start up the WTS light would be on. Does anyone know the reason for this. And by the way my truck is completely stock.
Tell us why you got the HPOP put on it and how the symptoms have changed since then.
When the truck won't start, do any other dash lights act funny or stay on, not come on like when it does start? When you turn the key on and do not see the WTS light, can you hear the fuel pump hum for 20 seconds or so?
Odds are if the truck is completely stock you've got a short to ground killing power to the PCM at certain times, which will cause the no start and the stall issue. Good news is electrical tape might fix it, bad news is we've got to figure out where to put the tape.
Start with the fuel pump to help confirm this diagnosis. It's mounted on the frame under the driver seat and looks a lot like a fuel filter with wires attached to it. Learn what it sounds like when it comes on like it's supposed to, then figure out if it's coming on when the truck does not start.
If the fuel pump does not power up when the WTS light does not come on, leave the key on and start wiggling wires under the hood and listen to which wire makes the fuel pump start humming.
Of course it's always wise to check fuses and swap relays around first.
Well I put the HPOP on there bc I was going down the road and it just died and never started up. Before I changed the HPOP I put a new CPS on it. But that didn't work so I take it to a profesional and they said it was the HPOP so they changed it out and it ran fine for like 2 weeks. Also when I try and crank it up all gauges move except for the oil pressure gauge. It eventually moves but not right away.
You probably didn't need a new HPOP. Did they also put in a new IPR with the HPOP or re-use the old one? I'd start by checking the wiring to the IPR sensor. Also make sure the tin nut is still on the back of the IPR
Then check the ICP sensor wiring.
Then check the big harness that comes up and over the driver side valve cover with the red striped tape on it. Those wires can chaff below or behind the square box with a bolt in the middle that appears to attach to the valve cover under the air intake tube.
After that try the wiring over the driver front shock, then the wires inside the steering column.
Well in case anyone is wondering what was wrong with my truck it turns out that I had a superchip in it and that it went bad. So they took it out and my truck is running fine now.
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