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question #1: is it possible to get a 11 code (system ok) and a 32 code (egr pressure feedback fault)
question #2: ok if that's possible then can u give me more info on the 32 code. i need to know how much it would cost to get fixed what needs to be fixed, and if its one of those things that you could probably do it yourself or if its a must for a mechanic shop.
i'm pretty sure my codes are 11 and 32. cause the 11 repeats twice, then the separator beep then the 32 repeats twice. i thought it was 22 and 32 but now i think its 11 and 32, infact im positive cause both codes must repeat. so anywayz tell me if this is possible and how to take care of this EGR thingy.
here are my truck's symptons. LOW GAS MILEAGE and engine light flashes a bit. thats it!
thanks!
Jeremy
p.s. anyone interested in buying my truck this summer? i need the money for college. just wondering lol
If I'm not mistaken, the first set of codes are current faults, and the second set are stored codes, i.e. problems that occurred some time ago. Follow the procedure to clear the codes and run the test again.
If it is a Pressure Feedback problem it might be as simple as a broken rubber hose to the PFE(Pressure Feedback Emitter), might be called something else on your model. The PFE is essentially an electronic sensor that gets exhaust pressure pulses from a rubber hose and sends the info to the computer. My 89 SHO had my PFE die at about 90K and it caused all kinds of problems with rough running and stalling after getting hot.
The PFE for the SHO cost something like $110 several years back. I hope on a real American engine they will be cheaper.
You might also have a leaky metal pipe from the exhaust to the EGR.
The 32 code is pretty common. It is usually caused by the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor on top of the EGR valve. It has 3 nuts holding it on and one electrial connector. Very easy to change.
I dont think it will make any difference to your gas mileage though. How long since you've tuned it up?
The sensor that's reporting the fault is rarely the problem - don't replace it yet. It's more likely that the EVP is perfectly fine and it's telling you that something is preventing the EGR from responding to the EEC's attempts to control its position.
You probably just have a vacuum leak somewhere along the chain from the intake manifold vacuum tree to the red hard line to the passenger wheelwell-mounted vacuum reservoir to the black hard line to the EGR solenoid valve to the yellow hard line to the EGR's diaphragm. Check all those (especially the "coffee-can" reservoir; they can crack near the edge on the front or back) and if you're SURE there's no problem with them, THEN maybe the EVP is the problem.
I would replace the EVP 1st since about half the trucks that come into our shop have that code 32 due to faulty evp sensors. As far as fuel mileage, my 87 only got about 15 at best and its really hard to judge city driving milage.
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