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FAQ - Door Swap Questions

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  #31  
Old 06-13-2010, 09:06 PM
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Wow, cool! I'd like to do this one of these days.

Thanks for the correction on the circuit breaker locations, I've edited my pic as a result (mostly
for future readers).

I'll try and scan some stuff and add it here in the near future.

BTW oddshot posted some good wiring splicing info, it might be helpful for cut wires:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-running.html
 
  #32  
Old 06-16-2010, 08:43 PM
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OK, a few scans for the archives....

First, the fuse block as per the 1981 shop manual:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


The next is the wiring diagram for the power windows & door locks. I'm not gonna post the
entire pic to this forum, it's toooooo big so just a thumbnail, click it to go to the imageshack
site where you can see a larger version and zoom in on it (which you'll need to do to read
the lettering).

BE SURE YOUR BROWSER ISN'T CONFIGURED TO SHRINK IMAGES TO FIT
YOUR SCREEN ELSE YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO READ IT!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
  #33  
Old 07-07-2010, 03:10 PM
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I wanted to add a couple of updates:

I swapped the guts from the power 88 Bronco into my 86 Passenger side door. It worked but there's a few things you should be aware of: The window glass is slightly different from the 86 to 88 models. I think the window portion that rises and lowers is approx. a half inch smaller width wise compared to the 86. I had wanted to transfer over some of the weather stripping from the 88 to my 86 but couldn't because it was a half inch to short. Also, the weather stripping on the inside of the window on the 86 is stapled on while the 88 has special clips that go into the door panel. Since I'm putting 88 guts into an 86 door (and using the 88 door panels) I had to transfer the 86 weather stripping. I had to drill tiny holes into the weather stripping and door panel, and bend staples through the weather stripping into the door to get it to hold. It's in there but I haven't run the windows up and down much to see how well it will hold up. It shouldn't be a problem though.

Also, the door panel clips do not completely match up either. They do for the most part but there are 2 or 3 clips on the rear side of the panel at the top and midway down that do not line up. I had to drill 2 holes in the door panel so it would accept the 88 door panel.

You will also need to drill out and transfer the support bracket that gets screwed into the door panel. (The part that fits across the top of the door panel and the bottom. I went to the hardware store and got 2 bolts and locknuts and it went right in.

So, yes it's doable but there's some fabrication that needs to be done and it's not a direct bolt on. I'm hoping the drivers side goes easier but I'm completely swapping the entire door on that side and not just the guts but that won't be for a couple weeks because i'm in the process of painting it.
 
  #34  
Old 07-07-2010, 03:36 PM
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1987-1996/97 doors have the extra holes in the door for the panels 1980-1996/7 etc...

1980-1986 doors do not have the extra holes and they have to be drilled like you mentioned to fit newer trucks 1987-1996/7 etc...

The vent window frames changed in 1987, and then again in 1992. As a concequence the door glass isn't as wide, like you mention. However the vent window frames can be removed and swapped out.

The interior of the 1980-1999 F-600/F-900 trucks did not change styles, and remained vitually the same throughout those 20 years, with little upgrades. As most already know, the 1980-1999 F-600/F-900 share most of the same interior parts with the 1980-1986 F-150/F-250/F-350 etc... This is why the older stuff will fit on the newer doors, but it's not quite as simple to put newer stuff on the older ones.

Hope this helps...
 
  #35  
Old 07-07-2010, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
The vent window frames changed in 1987, and then again in 1992. As a concequence the door glass isn't as wide, like you mention. However the vent window frames can be removed and swapped out.
I found that out the hard way when I first got my truck.I have door glass from an 88 F250 on the driver's side,and I didn't realize the difference until I saw that window moves side to side in the channel.It keeps the water out,so it'll work until I get some new door glass/vent windows.
 
  #36  
Old 08-13-2010, 02:45 PM
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I could use some help from you guys. I have a 1994 F150 XLT and got hit and the door needs replacing since it's got a big hole in it and no body shop will touch it. My truck is black and I found a nice black door but it's on a 93 F150 XLT. Can I swap the 93 door onto my truck 94 truck. I'm not too concerned about wiring issues since I have the wiring manuals. More concerned with fitment. Any help would be appreciated. I"m trying to bring my truck back to loife since the insurnace company totalled it. Thanks Will
 
  #37  
Old 08-13-2010, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by WTRBKT55
I could use some help from you guys. I have a 1994 F150 XLT and got hit and the door needs replacing since it's got a big hole in it and no body shop will touch it. My truck is black and I found a nice black door but it's on a 93 F150 XLT. Can I swap the 93 door onto my truck 94 truck. I'm not too concerned about wiring issues since I have the wiring manuals. More concerned with fitment. Any help would be appreciated. I"m trying to bring my truck back to loife since the insurnace company totalled it. Thanks Will
Yes. it is a direct swap
 
  #38  
Old 11-11-2010, 01:55 PM
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make 1 good truck out of 2

I have an 80 f350 4x4 automatic with attached transfer case ( to the trans ) . My fram e is rusty but not cracked it is an 8 ft with regular bed. I have an option to buy a clean cab and chassis from another 80 . The new 80 f350 is a dually 2 wheel drive with coil springs in front and an 8ft utility box and 4 speed . both trucks are 351 m motors. I want to use the new frame with my 4x4 suspension . are the frames the same ( drill out factory rivets and install my leaf spring suspension ) on the front and rear ...may keep the dually rear if the gear is correct ...also will the 4 speed mate up with my transfer case ?
 
  #39  
Old 08-03-2017, 12:14 AM
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So I have read this thread and find myself a bit confused but mostly confident. I have an 1980 F250 that has a door ding or 10. I was looking for a bed and found a guy with an 86 when I went to buy it he tossed in the doors and front fenders. So my 80 was bare bones no electric windows or locks and now I have straight 86 doors with both. From what I have read I need a harness from the fuse block to both doors and it runs just under the windshield in the cab. Do I have it right and if I do is there a vendor that makes the harness or is it a pick a part type thing?
 
  #40  
Old 08-03-2017, 08:09 AM
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Bob, if what you are wanting to do is install the optional power window & lock stuff, then yes, you'd use a purpose-made wiring harness that runs across the firewall (inside the cab) and connects the fuse box to the control switches + devices.

I have one such harness I'm gonna use for my own truck someday (or so I hope).
 
  #41  
Old 08-03-2017, 11:21 AM
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Thanks I was thinking that was the case and hoping I was wrong. I will have to find the time to visit a wrecker soon. I know the longer the doors aren't attached the probability of them staying straight is reduced by a large margin
 
  #42  
Old 10-04-2017, 12:26 PM
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Does anyone have any interchange info on the rear doors for the crew cabs? My dad has an 85 cowboy cadillac and the rear panels are FUBAR. It doesn't help that he lives near Las Vegas, so the sun is brutal.

I was wondering if I could get panels off a 97 or something and put them on? (better plastic, etc.)

Thanks!

Offio
 
  #43  
Old 10-09-2017, 09:29 PM
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I'm a little late to the party here, but I hope this link to one of my posts is helpful.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-the-same.html
 
  #44  
Old 10-10-2017, 06:02 PM
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Not Enough, THANKS!
 
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