I started my lowering job on the rear last night and am stumped on removing the pins in all the shackles so I can get the proper leafs out to lower it.And when removing the leafs do you start with the bottom or top???

 

Rosa,

Start from the bottom - the little one about 6 inches long that is sorta crimped at each end - I don't really call that a spring, so i threw it away. I started with the first one that really looks like a spring. So the first one or shortest one that looks like a spring is #1. As you count up, they get longer.

You are gonna clean them up with a wire brush in a drill and grind the edges with a grinder so they don't dig in to the next spring? You are gonna line them with teflon/PVC right?

Check each spring leaf carefully for cracks.


Later,

 

Yes I will line them.Any threads on the shackles and removing them.

 

Rosa,

Sorry, forgot about the pins.

Three on each spring assembly. Look on the inside of the frame and you'll see a hole about 1 inch or so in diameter even with the rear spring mount. At the front you'll see a slotted hole in the main crossmember in front of the rear axle that leads to a similar hole through the frame itself even with the front mount assy.

After you undo the concentric pins near the eyes of the springs, you insert a punch into those holes in the frame. You're holding this punch with a set of vicegrips because you're going to wail like heck on the end of it with a BFH until the pins start to slide out. You might want to heat the spring mount assy with a propane torch (like used for soldering plumbing).

After while, they'll start to come out....

Later,

 

Rosa

How many are you going to remove? How many should you remove? Which ones do you leave? You know...inquiring minds want to know who's doing what and how.....lol

Just curious

Big ole hands

 

Big Hands

Something like this on a 53-56 F100. Starting from the bottom, this is leaf #1. Keep number#1, remove #2, #4, #6. I think if you keep 5 leaves you will retain a small hauling capability. Some guys are only using 4 leaves. Seems a bit too soft to me but it may be just fine.

As posted elsewhere, clean the leaves and inspect for cracks. Some use teflon liner between the leaves for smoother ride. Some just lube them up real thoroughly with bearing grease.

 

Guys I am working on my truck as well and cant understand how to get the rear leaf pins out??? also is there a procedure for getting the hubs off the rear end to get a look at the brakes and undo the emergency cable to get the rear end completely out for detail.Thanks from the Monkey

 

DJ53,

As I said above, look at the rear spring mount/hanger rivetted to the frame. On the inside of the the bracket - that is, just inside of where the spring eye sits - so between the spring and the frame, you'll see a pin with a nut on the end of it. This pin is tapered with a flat side on it. The nut points up at an angle of aprox. 30 degrees. Loosen off the nut till it's barely on. Whack it a couple of times with a hammer to loosen it. Not hard since it tends to be greased up pretty good. O.K., It's loose now, so take the nut off and completely remove that little pin. That pin is what I referred to above as a concentric pin. Not sure what Ford called it but RMF calls it a concentric pin.

Now go to the inside of your frame rail. You're standing between your frame rails looking at the frame where the rivets holding that whole spring mount come through the frame. You'll see a hole in the frame about an inch or more in diameter. Insert a center punch or rod of steel into this . (Maybe clean it out a little with a screwdriver first). Feel around for the big pin that goes through the hanger bracket and the eye of the leaf spring and set your punch up against it. Now start wailing on it with a BFH. It doesn't want to come out cause it's been there longer than you've been on this earth, so keep wailing on it. I found that it helped immensely by heating the inner and outer ends of the bracket where the pin goes through - that is on either side of where the spring eye is sitting.

Very same procedure for getting the front pin out as well except your punch goes through a slotted hole in the frame crossmember and then through the hole in the frame.

Hope this explains it better.

 

Thanks ferguson777,

BTW does this hold true for the front springs as well? Thanks for your help. IFS is still down the list of improvements and the stock suspension will rattle your teeth going over our famous or infamous railroad tracks.

Big Ole Hands

 

...."does it hold true for the front springs as well?...."

I'll let you know in about a month when i tackle my front ones.


With regard to the railroad tracks, my advise would be (as i mentioned in aother note about lowering the rear end) just take your teeth out. That's what i'm gonna do.

 

Any response to the rear brake drums not coming off.I am using a wheel puller and it still wont come off

 

The brake drums are not connected to the lugs, usually. There may be retainer clips at the base of the lug bolts. Rap on the outer edge of the drum, maybe use some PB Blaster or WD40 where the lugs pass thru the drums. If you've really pounded on it with a wheel puller, better check the axle bearing retainer flange for bowing once you get the drums off. (been there, done that). Randy OOPS- I wuz thinking you had a 9" rearend and you probably don't. Sorry if I mislead you. Randy

 

I know it's stupid to ask this but you did remember to back off on the brake adjuster before trying to take them off and you did release the parking brake ...right?

Been there done both.. shows how smart I am doesn't it?


Good luck

Hands

 

Big Hands,

"but you did remember to back off on the brake adjuster before trying to take them off and you did release the parking brake ...right?

Been there done both.. shows how smart I am doesn't it? "

It's o.k. to forget those things, we all do, but never, NEVER, admit in here that you did. We'll eat you alive.

 

No I did not.I guess I m not ashamed to admit I didnt know you had to?? I'll try tonight and Thanks You guys.