AHHHHHH Ferguson...another satisfied customer lives and learns from my mistakes....This may be turning into a cottage industry ...lol....

And remember....that which does not kill me only makes me tougher to eat up...


Still learning and having fun

Hands

 

Getting back to the process of removing the "shackle stud" or "shackle pin"(that's what they're called in the 54-55 Ford shop manual, same part - two names);

Those little thingies I called "concentric pins" - the Ford manual calls them - "shackle pin locking pins"

Anyway, the shop manual doesn't really say anything more than what I did up above. So, I didn't miss anything by not reading the manual beforehand. Jeese, I never cease to amaze myself.

Pop (unscrew actually) those grease fittings off the "shackle studs/pins" before you put any heat on the shackles. so the hot grease can run out and drip on your white garage floor or boots.

For the front springs, the only difference is that you have to remove the nuts on each end of the "shackle studs/shackle pins" before you start wailing on the punch.

Remember to hold the punch with a pair of vice grips though. Cause that BFH really hurts the knuckles, so i hear.....

Good things from the valley....

 

Thanks Ferg,I gave up last nite and tried to focus on the leafs.Heres how it went.I dropper the rear end and remember I was having trouble getting the drum off, well the adjuster was completely frozen.I did get to use that bfh though on the drum.It came off and it (brakes assem ) will need all new parts.Any way with the rear end out I can at least get it sanded and primed and painted.On the subject of leafs It went pretty smoothe only driver side done.As I pulled or pryed each leaf out the ones I was keeping I wire sanded and hit them with de-rust spray and then primed.I plan on using just bearing grease in between and hope re assembly will go as smoothe.I might just stick with the pins and locking nut I already have in place and save myself some work unless you all think I am here why not just replace them. As I look behind the frame I honestly dont see the other end of the pin.I see the one inch hole and I cleaned inside.I took off the grease fitting and see the slot in the front of the pin but again I do not see the other end of the pin thru the frame and I feel like I am just pounding on the frame. HELP !!! My knuckles are mostly bloody from this whole experience.Maybe I should have stuck with plastic models............HaHa

 

Rosa,

1. You're not gonna see the inside end of those pins but they're there (trust me) and you just gotta keep wailing on them. Try the heat on the shackles - it helps. I'm not sure mine woulda come out without heat. You don't need Oxy/Acy torches - just one of those $10. propane tanks from your hardware store. About five minutes of heat on both sides and another 5 minutes of wailing and they'll come. After you've reached the point where you're positive they're not coming, it just needs another 4 minutes of wailing and they start to move.

When you do get them out, you'll see the bushings in there are worn to the point where they're no longer round. The one's in those wierd hanger brackets that stick up were worn right through to the point where the actual shackle itself was worn outa round. I went with new shackles - about fifty bucks - had to, they were worn to the point where new bushings in the old ones would not have been supported 360 degrees.

The rebuild kit with new studs/pins and new locking pins, etc is fairly cheap and your old studs/pins will likely be outa round as well.

Besides - you'll have it this far apart so do it right. It'll never be cheaper than right now to replace those parts. When this baby hits to road, you don't want to have to pull it apart a year later for stuff like this.

2. Springs - you probably got wear marks worn right into your leaves from the ends of the spring below each one. Remember to grind/file off the sharp edges so they can sorta ride over the old groove rather than perpetuate it.

("perpetuate" - good eh, you guys didn't think I knew any compound words!)

Today's lecture has now concluded.

Later,

 

I'm not scared.I will dive into it again tonite and see.You have been alot of help Ferg.Where did you find your new kits? I have to run to see my 4 yr old at his pre school.They just learned the pledge of allegience.They still do that here in Washington!! Anyway i will get right back to you when I get back in the office.DJ

 

Rosa,

Pretty sure I got both the pin and bushing set and the shackles at John's F-funhendreds but I urge you to check with Motorhaven - our host here - first.

Regards,

 

Hey Fat fenders,what kind of rear drop should I expect with the leaf removal you described above and if I put that mus 11 in front will I still have too much lift in the rear for that even drop look.I dont mean completely in the weeds.Thanks

 

Rosa

I don't know for sure but we can cipher it if you can post stock frame height and your tire diameter. If you have those figures (Or anyone else for that matter, I can measure mine for comparison.) Measure at the bottom of the frame and tell me where. My bumper raised and tucked so those numbers won't help.

 

Rosa

I did not realize it but I am apparently very close to max drop in the rear without an axle flip. Here is what I have. 4 3/4 clearance from the top of the axle housing (9 inch rear which has 3 in tube diameter). I have not yet installed a rubber bumper/snubber. I believe a suspension bumper would be at least an inch and a half or so tall so I am near the limit. I should point out I redrilled the front spring mount holes about 1 1/4 inch higher on the frame as I recall. I have 18 3/8 frame height as measured at the rear spring mount where the frame is flat. Running 26 1/2 tall tires in the rear (loaded tire height). My truck is almost completely assembled so final height should be real close to this.

Not too relevant due to all the variables involved but my current running board clearance is 7 in front and 9 1/4 rear.

I would be curious to hear what stock height is. Need an accurate tire diameter for the numbers to reflect effect of my spring mods. Again, this is a five leaf setup. Your mileage may vary for sure due to spring wear. Four would put you close to the bottom out zone unless you have fresher springs than I do.

 

Hey Ferg, I tatally got the rear end out and wire brushed and power sanded for about two hours.It is going to look great.As I go to pull the passenge side brake drum off I notice it is welded at the drum center all the way around??/ Am i supposed to pull the whole retaining nuts from the driver side to get a look at the pads and springs. Stumped in Washington.Thanks DJ

 

DJ,

"Hey Ferg, I tatally got the rear end out and wire brushed and power sanded for about two hours.It is going to look great.As I go to pull the passenge side brake drum off I notice it is welded at the drum center all the way around??"

Are you serious? The drum is welded to the the end of the axle?
I'd be tossing that sucker and getting another one. You can't grind out the weld because of the wheel bolts. To change or even inspect the brake shoes you'd have to pull the axle. Run , don't walk away from that rear end.

" Am i supposed to pull the whole retaining nuts from the driver side to get a look at the pads and springs. Stumped in Washington.Thanks DJ"

Don't understand your question. (I'm not as smart as I look)

 

That's impossible.

 

Earl,

I've taken out my pencil. I'm opening my book... Yer on my list now, Earl.

 

Look, you put a sign on your back that says "kick me" and what do you expect?

 

Hey Ferg, Ya know the more I look at that rear end I told you about, boy those welds look factory not like someone just did them.The weld is inside the studs on the center part all the way around where the other drum sat to be centered.I hope your not confused.This is the pasenger side drum???